I want to remove/disable this alarm as I cannot start the engine.
The motor will spin over and I have fuel pressure, but the engine will not fire and I think the Piranha is the problem.
For the first time ever, when the ignition is turned ON there is a slight buzzing sound coming out of the unit.
I believe the ignition has a relay in it somewhere near the key ignition switch.
Any advice appreciated. Thanks.
It looks like the alarm at the bottom of this forum;
https://forum.retro-rides.org/thread...m-instructions

 

Is your car a V12 or a 6 cylinder?
Most alarms cut the fuel and the 12v feed to the coil. I would first check that the injectors are actually firing. I think also as a test, you will find that ignition on, you do NOT have 12v at the coil positive terminal.
To remove the alarm: if you remove the plastic surround over the column between the steering wheel and the dash (screws under the trim in wells in the plastic), and the under-dash shin level trim, I am certain that you will see where the wires to the alarm are joined to the factory wires attached to the ignition switch loom, and the wires from the alarm are re-attached to those wires.
The alarm effectively provides a cutout, and all you have to do is rejoin the OEM wires together and remove the alarm stuff.

 

Thanks Greg.
It's a V12.

 

Make sure the inertia switch hasnt been triggered

 

It shouldn't have been triggered. I drove it into the garage a couple of months ago and all was ok.

 

My suggestion with aftermarket alarms, imobilisers etc is to the point and some consider brutal. NO.

If the car concerned is not doing as it should, RETURN that car to AS MADE, sort any remaining issues, usually NONE, and then re-evaluate the need for such nonsense.

A few of my past beasts came with that rubbish, and problems followed quickly. Wire cutters, snip, snip, snip, any no factory wires, and the beast is fine. NO-GO system was the item at that time.
The Red XJS took longer due to wires having to be rejoined after snipping, about 6 more beers, job done. The alarm triggered when I did the first snip, BFH shut that up quickly.

 

I think I'm getting closer.
The two thick wires white/yellow that went through a relay, I've joined together.
Again the motor will turn over but not fire.
There must be other wires.

Is there anything to stop me ripping everything out.
The two lots of cables run through the firewall and then under the steering column. I could clearly cut all and remove entire unit.

 

Its a start of the list.

That White/Yellow is the Starter relay activation FROM the Ign switch.

My chart is attached, maybe helpful.

I would turn ON the Igntion, probe the White wire at the +ve terminal of the coil, it should be battery voltage. NO volts = NO spark.

 

Ok 12v at Pos terminal of coil.
HHmmmm????

 

Goodo,

NOW, is there spark AT the spark plugs. One way is get a mate hahaha, to hold a lead while you crank the engine and the see if he/she "jumps". Just make sure they dont have a pacemaker, mmm. Worked for me in the early days, then they all woke up, and always stood waaaaay back.

The "proper" way is to plug any old spark plug into a lead, and rest is nearby, thus earthing the body of said sparker, and crank the engine, and observe the spark. It MUST BE a FAT Blue CRACK of a spark, you are attempting to start a 12.5:1 comp engine, and that is not easy if the spark is not as said.

When spark is confirmed, Bang Juice is the next item needed. Spray some Nulon Start Ya B^%$ard up the snorkel of the air cleaner, and I mean a good spray, its got a loooong way to go. If it now coughs and farts, you have established a fuel issue, and that is another list again.

To be continued me thinks.

 

Back when I was a picanninie, my Dad would always service the cars on a Sunday.
He got me a couple of times, "hand me that wrench (that's what they were called onmthe farm)" and zap, he was holding onto a spark plug lead.
How could he, to his own son?
Anyway, I get off the track.
Today I removed the old Piranha and numerous looms.
It still turns over and there is fuel pressure, but no firing.
BUT, I did find a mouse nest in the valley.
So next sunny day, I will push it out of the shed and investigate further.

 

Your Dad spoke to my Dad, same thing, must be "old people humour".

Mice and engine looms, oh dear, NOT good. You have a few hours/days, of tracing one wire at a time.

The spark seek and sort is not that difficult, apart from the above method. Spray some Start Ya in the snorkels of the air cleaners, while someone cranks it. It should cough and fart eventually if the sparkers are sparking, It will take a bit of Ether, as its got a long way to travel.

DO NOT EVER attempt to start a Jag V12 with air cleaners OFF. They have a BAD habit of belching flames out the throttle bodies, not good for paintwork or clothing. That only really applies to one that is difficult to start, AKA, YOURS.

If you get the cough and fart,the spark is there, then Injector Pulse is lost, and that is covered well in my stickie at the top.

 

Thanks Grant. Just did the startya******* and yes it coughed and spluttered.

So now into your very comprehensive stickie.

1) Injector pulse test. - PASSED.

2) CTS (Coolant Temp Sensor) - NEXT (tomorrow)

 

Goodo, makes it a tad simpler.

Dont forget the beer, lots of beer.

 

Not too sure, but do do think I'm closing in on the problem?

 

So I guess I'm up for another distributor.

 

hat part is still availableit is the connector between the switching mechanism (disributor pickup unit) in the base of the dizzy and the amplifier. Take a careful look at how much wire is poking out of the base of the distributor (the wire that the cut ends were attached to). You may be able to splice in a join and replace the plug with a newer one of a better design. Even if not, you can still splice the wires even if you have to take the pickup out to do it.
If not, a new part is still available and it gives you an opportunity to service the dizzy, replace the vac capsule etc. If you do have to do this, post again before getting stuck in, as there are things to avoid getting wrong!
I managed to fix my broken plug and wires:

My problem



Wires spliced into emerging dizzy bottom pickup wires. Best to use heat shrink solder connectors for this job. If not enough poking out to splice, you can still repair the loom inside, rather than buying a new pickup.

New Anderson Powerpole connector to amplifier to replace old rubber one.


Pickup ad:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/224586536981

Jagdaim in Oz have them, too.

 

Thanks Greg. The Bl**dy mice have eaten all the wiring on the outside of the dizzy.
You are saying that there is still enough inside to repair it?
I'm not too sure that is within my capability?????
Is it hard?
I note a replacement part is over AUD300.

 

In this pickup photo, the wiring on the inside of the pickup is inside that square grommet thing, that is what seals the dizzy casing when the wire emereges. Once out it is easy enought to exptend the wires. You use these things
NOt hard, but fiddle to remove the dizzy. Got to be done, take your courage in both hands and follow Grant and my steps!