Hi
I am slowly but surely working through the car and sometimes it is one forward and 2 back!
The front wheel bearing has play, and after removing bearings I noticed a wear ridge on the stub axle. So i think i need to replace stub axle? What is the best way to remove the stub axle, does anyone know? I have realised it is much better to ask for help before I start the work!!
Much appreciated
Jeff

 

Various methods for removal. Mine is as follows, unbolt disc from hub (5 bolts through from back), loosen but do not remove stub axle nut at back of vertical support. Then remove bearing cap and remove nut and then hub but leaving disc in place, I then use a short length of pipe (2" water pipe I think) slipped over the stub axle with very heavy washer and reinstall bearing nut and tighten against washer/pipe. Stub axle should pop loose. Remove nut at back of support and remove axle.
A very slight wear groove on the stub axle is all it takes to totally destroy the quality handling of these cars.

 

Just in case it helps: once the Baxtor pipe has a bit of tension on it pulling the stub against the upright it is fixed into, a few very sharp whacks on the stub will help to ping it off. It is in a tapered hole so needs a jolt to free it. New bearings too mind!
Greg

 

Hi Baxter
Thanks for your advice. Very helful and i can see that working. Many thanks Jeff

 

Hi Greg
Thanks for your reply. I have ordered bearings and hopefully are on the nway with new calipers.
This site has been a godsend. Much appreciated
Jeff

 

I've read many posts on what I see as unexpected wear on the stub axles. Why ?
The inner race of the inner wheel bearing should be firmly seated there. It should not revolve around the axle at all. If that happens in reality, axle life at that point should be way beyond most of the rest of the car.


My only explanation is that the inner race is not properly seated at the factory or in subsequent bearing service. Tighten the axle nut really tight, then back off "just enough" for the hub to turn free. I suspect, many of us fail at that point. Me included.


Oh, a minor point. Clean mating surfaces, no grease to promote unwanted movement there.


BODGE: Raise the worn area with a sharp punch. A series of little holes, each with a slightly raised edge. A very rough form of knurling.


BODGE II: Turn the stub axle 180 degrees. Worn bottom side now on top. A bit fuzzy there. Race match still incompelete.


Carl

 

Stub axle wear is a known "fault" of the Jaguar front end at the 60,000 mile plus stage, probably because any excess play is not regularly adjusted out at service times. The Great Palm has much about it. People have been known to Loctite the inner race to the stub, but this poses potential wear adjustment problems, so I would not want to do it.
greg

 

What would be the correct adjustment when i fit the new stub axle and bearings, obviously no play, am i correct in thinking the bearing would run true with equal wear if its on the tight side.

 

The bearing must NOT be tight (unlike modern bearing/stub designs, these are NOT designed to be done up against a machined stop. Worst case too tight will shear the stub axle as the bearings seize. The Great Palm's book has a good discussion on this subject and what is the best adjustment, well worth a read.
This is what I do: I do up the castellated nut to just in contact so there is no play when you try to rock the hub, and NO feeling of binding. This is quite obvious when you try it, too tight and the hub does not spin freely on the bearings. If needed undo slightly so you can get the split pin though the keeper that covers the nut, and the nut castellations themselves. If it feels loose like this, try tightening it a touch from "just right" to get the split pin and keeper in, and try it again. If it spins Ok you are OK. If it has any hint of binding back it off again. I am assuming the calipers are off the car, but in case not, ensure the disc pads do not deceive you, if necessary back them off first.
Then give it a test run for 10 miles at decent speeds. Back home, whip off the wheels and feel if the hub is at all hot (NOT the discs, the hub centre itself). If that is cool the adjustment is fine. If the bearings are too tight, you will feel heat from the excessive friction. Once you have done this a few times, the feel is second nature. Then check for play after a month of use, and then annually.
Greg

 

I also had this issue which necessitated replacing both my front stub axles. I also machined a spacer to go between the bearings which sets end float at 0.001". Rob Beere sells these spacers

 

Hi Gregg
Having a rethink on removing the stub axle. Now needing new nut. Ithas very slight damage as I used it to try an remove axle!!.Maybe not such a good idea! What are your thoughts using loctite which is made for this purpose?Have you tried it? Does it work? I dread trying to soure a new nut! Thanks in advance Jeff

 

Which nut do you mean, 13 or 22? 13 is available still from JCP. 22 is from D Manners. Slight damage means what?
Greg

Hub and Stub Axle Carrier - Parts For XJS from (V)139052 to (V)179736 | Jaguar Classic Parts UK
Greg

 

Its 10 which i think is 5/8 AF, the nut now looks abit stressed

 

Still available from Jaguar and cheap
greg