Hi, I'm new to the forum and looking forward to input on reviving a 1989 XJS V12 coupe. My in-laws purchased the car new from a local Jaguar dealership in Vancouver, BC Canada. It saw mostly weekend and special occasion use and has accumulated only 34,000 Km (about 21,000 Miles). Always dealer serviced and maintained, mostly a trouble free ownership experience save for routine maintenance and minor repairs. My in-laws are now in their early '80s and the car hasn't been run or driven since 2004. It has been stored in an unheated garage under a car cover for the duration. As the car will be kept in the family long term I want to return the XJS to roadworthy condition so it can be driven and enjoyed on a regular basis. Late this week I will be trailering the car to a warehouse-shop that I share with a few friends. We have mostly office jobs and work on our cars as a hobby; we have a few mid '60s muscle cars, early Porsches, some mid-'50s Studebakers and assorted other vehicles - its eclectic. The shop is well equipped with a lift, pneumatic equipment and a large variety of tools so we likely have what we need to do the work. I have never owned or worked on a Jag. I recently purchased a Repair Operation Manual (ROM) for the car which is helpful although it lacks comprehensive illustrations in many subject areas. As there were no known mechanical issues with the car before it was parked and stored, I am unaware of any issues that will need immediate attention. I have however done some reading on this forum and other internet sites about the likelihood of leaks, electrical issues and determination due to the rigors of long term storage so I am prepared (mentally anyway) to expect them. Here is the short term plan for the car:

• Drain and replace engine oil and filter.

• Drain and replace fuel (tank is full...).

• Replace fuel filter.

• Flush and bleed brakes with DOT 4 fluid and check operation.

• Replace tires (they are original to the car).

• Replace the battery (long dead).

• Drain the radiator and replace coolant.

• Complete an overall visual check of all major systems and components for leaks, damage and storage related issues.

• Restart the car and check for leaks, test drive and verify vehicle operation.

• ...go from there.

I would appreciate any thoughts, tips and suggestions on the preparation, inspection and startup process.

 

Hi from Vancouver Island. Nice to hear from someone in BC.
In the forums there is how to section as well as tech bulletins. I just ordered Haynes manuel today. There is the xjs book listed there aswell.
I had lotsa muscle cars in the past and this is nothing like that. Jaguar has its own way of doing things. Some strange and some pretty cool. Im installing chevy 350 this summer in my 89 XJS convertible.
Last of all ask questions. People here are very knowledgable and willing to help with advise.
If you send me your email in will send you some links. Jamie in BC

 

Jamie, thanks for the warm welcome. There was no posting I could locate specifically dealing with long term storage startup however maybe I missed it. The wealth of knowledge here is impressive and I am looking forward to tapping it and will contribute where I can! On the subject of Jaguar tech, yes I agree they are nothing like muscle cars to work on however our experience in the shop extends to most marques modern and early so we should be able to muddle through most Jag issues with direction and support from forum members. I would really like some feedback and advise on the startup process.

PM'd you with my email address.

 

Many of us on these forums will Lust after your work space! Especially the lift!!
(';')

 

Its nice to have dedicated shop space...and yes the lift is a luxury. With a few guys sharing the cost we make it work.

 

Welcome aboard!

I feel like I could write a short book on my 2 1/2 years experience with my 87, but I don't really have to since someone has already done it! Search out "Kirby Palm - Help for the XJS Owner" and start reading.

The first few things I did was fix the distributor advance (it was seized), redo the fuel injector hoses and wiring (mine was baked), ditch the air injection system, and install a cold air inlet system. You'll come up with your own list once you really look it over.

Most importantly, have fun with it!

Cheers,

John
1987 XJ-S V12
64,000 miles

 

John, thanks for the words of welcome and encouragement.

---------------------------------

A question concerning Jaguar OEM vs Aftermarket filters and consumables. I contacted the local Jaguar dealer to ask about the availability of fuel, oil and air filters and other common consumables (or if I needed to source them from the aftermarket). I was told most OEM filters consumables and filters are still available from the dealer.

• Does the OEM quality justify the dealer's price premium?

• What's your experience? Preferred brands? Brands to avoid?

.

 

I have been searching for posts on the best method to drain the fuel tank and have been coming up short on details. My father-in-law took pride in topping off the fuel tank before storing the car (for the last 10 years) however now I have to drain and dispose of +/- 90 litres / 24 gallons of stale fuel. Would appreciate some direction or a link on this?

 

Lloyd, (it's nice to have a name for people, I already told you mine)

If I was having to do this, (heaven forbid I ever have to do this to my Jaguar) I would first get some deep plastic tubs, at least 2 (bearing in mind they'll be useless for anything else after this), of large dimensions to minimize splashing and have on hand enough gas cans to hold it all, and a large funnel. You might also need an assistant, but maybe not.

Then I would jack up the car on all 4 corners MAKING VERY SURE IT'S SECURE (none of this hokey stuff like a bottle jack on each corner!) just far enough to get the tubs in and out and have access to the plug. Then I would put a tub under the tank drain and pull the drain.

As one tub filled to a level comfortable to handle and pour into a gas can, I would put another tub in its place. You might have to get creative trading tubs so as to spill as little as possible on the floor. If you have a flat driveway apron you should do this outside. It would be safer that way anyway but it will also take planning.

For disposal, you'll probably have to call your local authorities for instructions.
(';')

 

I appreciate the suggestion however I'm uncomfortable with the risk of managing 20+ gallons of fuel emptying into a series of tubs. I thought about siphoning the fuel out of the tank into plastic gas cans which can then be transported for environmental disposal. Siphoning alone won't deal with the debris on the bottom of the tank however so maybe a combination of siphoning and draining is the best approach? Where is the tank drain plug?

 

Well, here I am with egg on my face at this hour of the day.

I apologize, Lloyd, I had something entirely different in mind. Delete all the foregoing as it has nothing to do with your problem.

I'll go off to my room now and keep quiet.
(';')

 

Welcome to the forum. Great place and very helpful guys. A few answers about the fuel and a few suggestions on getting the car ready:

• Under the battery is a small "sump tank" that is fed by the main tank, and is behind a sheet metal cover. In the boot floor, below this sump tank, is a rubber bung accessible from under the car. Prise out the bung to reveal a drain plug, and drain having siphoned out as much as you can from the main tank. The exit from this tank to the fuel pump next to the sump tank LHS near the floor, is a tube held by a locking ring. remove the ring and check the sump tank is clean. If not clean it out, and renew the sock filter you will find on the exit pipe to the pump.
• I think you would be very sensible to renew the three flexible brake lines (one on the rear axle cage) and IMO the calipers should be renewed or rebuilt as the seals are unlikely to be in a decent state. There are some important shims to be fitted when renewing the front calipers, please feel free to post for advice before tackling this task, or search the archives. Rear calipers are hard if not impossible to renew in place. Dropping the rear axle is the best way, I believe, and not as hard as it sounds!
• It is a very good idea to renew all coolant hoses throughout the engine bay, overheating is death to the engine.
• Replace all the fan belts. These are relatively cheap items, but one breaking can be potential disaster.
• Replacing the spark plugs is a must, and HT leads a good idea. the plugs are a sod the first time you try it, but a rite of passage for all new owners! they are taper seat, so when tightening, only finger tight plus 5 minutes more of turn.
• Grease the rear axle. there are four nipples under the diff for the lower wishbone inner pivot, two each side on the driveshaft universal joints, and one each side under the outer lower wishbone pivot. Check the grease is OK in the front wheelbearings (prise off the domed cover).
• The entire suspension, front and back, is on subframes suspended on rubber bushes. The front wishbones are on rubber bushes. These need to be renewed from time to time to maintain the classic Jaguar smoothness. Not necessarily right away, but doing them as a rolling programme is a very good plan. For example, if you remove the rear axle cage to do the calipers, renew all the bushes at that time. If you have a two post lift, DO NOT trust the rear axle cage. It is held in by four rubber blocks that have no anti-tension system (ie the weight of the car basically holds the blocks in place). When raised on a two poster, the blocks are in tension, not compression, and the axle can fall out if the block or its glue fails. When I raise my car on my two post lift, I place the arms about 3 inches along the radius arms from the body end of the radius arms. This prevents the problem.

The Great Palm's book, as recommended above, is a must. Also it is important to know which sort of ignition system you have Lucas or Marelli. I think, repeat think, you have a Marelli on that year's model. If the distributor is big round and flat with twelve HT leads in a ring round it, and there is a black box about 3 inches square on the top of the US driver's side inlet manifold at the cabin end, you have a Lucas car. If not, Marelli.

The car sounds great, and the more they are driven the better they go. Even on a low miler, you will have a maintenance backlog and until you have gone through everything you will have some frustrating times, but stick with it and the car is a very reliable dream come true when right! Have fun




Greg

 

Greg, this is very helpful advice; more ambitious than I had hoped for however I appreciate the importance of refreshing these components. I recently undertook a preservation effort on a mid '60's American car that had been stored for more than 20 years and had several pre-existing mechanical issues. I eventually went through every system and component and am glad I did. I located Kirby Palm's Experience in a Book on-line and began reviewing it time permitting a couple of days ago. I have paid particular attention to the section on distributor overhaul and am learning about some of the unique and sometimes quirky qualities of these cars. I am hoping to locate some links to DIY threads with photos on this forum for the above repairs and procedures which I find useful (visual learner).

 

In my humble opinion, going to Jaguar for anything related to a 89 XJS is demeaning to you, and them. I'm not saying to not go to Jaguar at all, as I have purchased things from Miriam Jaguar online, at a reasonable cost. However, I have found that SNG Barrett is surprisingly affordable. I have purchased from Pauls Jaguar in Ft Lauderdale, as well as a local guy who is really helpful, and eBay. The main thing I try to keep in mind, is that these cars are mostly a labor of love. Love for Jaguar in general, love of the XJS in particular, and in your case, sentimental reasons. All in all, financially speaking, these cars are a loss. But from a ride quaility, a sense of satisfaction of owning that which few have the nerve to own, is a reward in itself. I highly recommend the forums. All of them. This one especially. We all know how crazy we are, and for whatever reason, want to assist each other in the care of these cars. Ask questions without reservation. Hoefully, we are all in this together for the passion of the sport, lol.

 

I suppose this is a question for the forum at large, but relevant to the original post:
Seeing as this car has only seen ~21k miles, how likely is it that the rubber under the hood has suffered from the heat torture that higher mileage cars may have?

I was lucky to have purchased a car in which the previous owner had replaced and/or upgraded most of the hoses and wiring in the engine compartment, so this has not been a major concern on my car. But, I'm thinking that maybe the hoses and wires still have some life in them? And the original poster may get his car roadworthy without this work (yet)? I would suggest if you're not going to replace these, then definitely to keep an eye on them.

Others please let me know if I'm being naive.

 

Under bonnet wires are not something that I have suggested, and I agree with you that they may be quite OK (rodents aside!). Hoses, that is different, I believe. The coolant is quite a harsh substance, and sheer age on a 25 year old hose when it has to carry near-boiling coolant at 20 psi in under bonnet temperatures of close to boiling, puts any hose under considerable stress, let alone an old one. Factor in that a catastrophic burst might ruin the engine beyond repair and it seems a really good plan. Ditto belts. And the cost of changing them is very low: in the UK at least Manners sells a very good quality entire hose set for 70 UKP. What's the downside?

Greg

 

Friday (June 20) I will be picking up the car and transporting it (trailering) to my shop so I will have an opportunity to inspect it thoroughly on the weekend. I plan to take plenty of photos. No work has been performed on the car by the current owners (my in-laws) beyond routine dealer maintenance...and nothing in the past 10 years. I recall many years ago (beyond the current storage period) the radiator was repaired due to a leak that was discovered during winter storage. I do not believe that rodents have been a problem however we live in a wet climate so moisture may have taken its toll, we'll see. Once the basic fluids are changed and a battery installed, assuming all goes well and the car is once again running and driving, the next step will be to replace hoses and belts while attending to any immediate repairs that need attention. I have yet to locate a specialty Jaguar parts supplier in Vancouver or elsewhere in Canada. I will likely post on the regional forum for some names.

 

I agree with the recommendation to replace the hoses, 25 years is a long time, and would also add, why wait till all the fluids have been replaced? It seems you'd be changing the coolant twice, might as well do the hoses when you are changing the coolant the first time.

By the way, don't know if your radiator has a drain valve, but my 91 didn't. I think the manual said to just remove the lower hose, which I imagine would be pretty messy, as you would be under the car grappling with the hose when the gallons of antifreeze were released. When I replaced my radiator I put a piece of 1/4" copper tube down through the air bleed bolt hole on top of the tank and pumped as much coolant out as possible with a small hand pump. That method made it a lot easier for me.

 

As I haven't spent any time under the hood of the XJS as yet I assumed the radiator had a drain valve. If it doesn't then I'll change the hoses and the coolant at the same time.

 

If you have a copy of "The Book", be sure to read the section about bleeding the cooling system. Also, Doug, Grant and Greg have written very good descriptions of how to do it, here in these forums.

Welcome, and enjoy your XJS. You'll love it.

Bill

P.S. A garage with a lift, I'm BRG with envy!