Yesterday, following Grants guides (as best I could), I am pleased to say that I FINALLY have a good amount of control over my idle using the 14mm bolt on the side of the AAV.

First I set the ECU at dead center (7) counting the 14 clicks on the pot on the side using a D'd shaped piece of old tubing... WHICH way is more LEAN? Turning the POT towards the front or the back of the car, ECU in its place????

Then, I measured the voltage coming from the pot at the capstan and steadied it at .34 .35 v... Worked nicely.

Then I detached the arms and set them to the side.

Closed the 14mm bolt on the AAV to full closed (I don't know if that is part of the GRANTS instructions.

Completely undid the pinchers on both sides of the rods that control the butterfly valves on both sides --- using a large screwdriver to open the pinch. The butterflies snapped shut.

Turned back the 8mm locking nuts to not touching the control tabs on the butterfly bar, just back of the throttle bodies.

Started car to roughly 400rpms at operating temp. Waited a few minutes for things to settle. Then, walking from one side of the car to the other, turning only one flat at a time on the locking set screws, I slowly tuned the lockers to begin touching the butterfly posts. One at a time. Sloooowly.

At some point the one flat at a time approach started to have an effect on idle. Turning the screws equal flats, I got to just over 550 or so and I stopped, locking the screws.

Then, I went over and pushed UP (not tooooo hard) the pinchers and locked them onto the bars using the 8mm setting lock bolts as my UP, limiter.

Then, to the best of my ability, took the slack out of the arms and reattached them to the stand... Making sure that their connection had no effect on the engine speed. (I know I need to go back and gap, here)

____ I took my 14mm socket,,,, and low and behold as I started turning the bolt on the AAV the RPMS slowly rose in MY CONTROL for the first time ever. I passed out, bumped my head and just woke up!!! Lol,,, Cherry pie had run outta gas sit'n with a dead battery, lol - joking - but not by much...

I have never heard her run as calmly and slowly. Lowest and smoooothest idle, ever! No kidding.

Now,,, still,,, she's a little burbly... When I sit in drive at a light,,, I feel a small shake. I need to go in and make it official with the .002 feelers AND want to hear some advise, suggestions or for folks to tell me what I may have missed... She is MUCH closer to right,,, but I want to hear some criticisms and concerns. That's where the learning is.

Thanks in advance.

 

I love that these cars are so mechanical, so visceral.

Only questions are... When you ever so slightly touch the Gas pedal does the engine respond? I had alot of slack in my cable which the shop fixed.

And does your idle jump up with heat/ac on?

I'm a fan of fast idle so I always aimed for that, anything lower and you'd thick the car was going to stall. Sounds like you've got it 99% sorted as is.

 

Bloody hell, that Tobacco Greg suggested has worked wonders, WELL DONE.

I dont remember the rotation of that "pot" for lean/rich, as I simply "listened" for the "sweet sound" at idle, hot, and left it alone.

We NO got O2, or feed back rubbish, so very basic by comparison.

The Marelli guys will offer up when the planets align better.

 

I too love this machine... Thanks Van...

I have some work to do on the AC system and had it going for a little bit,,, but although rebuilt, the compressor has a fatal leak and I intend to just replace it. More, the HVAC ECU does not work to signal the relay to engage, so I had to set up a toggle switch (my ONLY toggle I like to add) to engage the relay, which would then engage the hvac system. Worked until HVAC pressure went flat. In all of that I cleaned and revived the supplimentary air valve on the RH air box and YES, I'm proud to say that it starts sucking air and boosts the idle.

Once I have a new compressor and restore the hvac, I guess I will have to make adjustments for the idle, again - which it seems I can do now, lol

I had NO idea that there was supposed to be an idle change for heat...? What, for the electricity consumed by the fans? Is load added needing a boost in idle?

 

BLOODY HELL is right...

Thanks to you, Brother!!! And yes, I hope folks will chime in about the POT and the directions (specifics) turning that dial will have on fuel mapping. Mine IS running rich, I'm convinced, and it's using a lot of gas...

I need to know what difference BAD 02 SENSORS will have on this,,, how to "RESET" them, if that's why my light is on and,,, whether or not messing around with the POT or other adjustments at this point are MUTE if the 02 sensors are bad.

Maybe I just need to start a thread. I have the 3wire sensors and I think I could change them out fairly easily...

I'm ALL EARS.

 

JJJ
I have no experience of the later cars and none about the o 2 sensors. But changing such crucial parts as a policy on an old car has got to be the right thing to do. Bad sensors will affect fuelling, no question.

As to aircon, when the compressor engages, it also opens up a small solenoid (the item you see stock into the back of the A bank air box, forwards of the inlet). I think your date of car still has this feature, anyway. This allows more air in so slightly increases tickover - this is an anti-stall feature because just possibly the load from the compressor might stall the engine.

When setting and testing the idle, aircon off is best.