Just purchased a 1994 XJS six cylinder convertible. I once owned a 96, so I am familiar with setting the parking brake and unlatching the latches before putting the top down. The problem is the rear windows and top stop after going about 25% down. I was able to get them to return but was afraid to attempt a 2nd go for fear of being stuck partially down.
Also the passenger window was stuck down all weekend despite attempting to return it twice per day and then this morning, it returned up.

 

Navyflyer,

The hood can stick going down if the fluid level in the pump is low. Start by checking that. RE. the rear windows, remember that there is an 8-second delay after pressing the hood Up switch before the windows start to actuate.

Good luck

Paul

 

I am a newbie. Re; Convertible top servicing. Is there a reservoir under the hood or do you service it at the motor which I am guessing is behind the rear seats.

And Paul the passenger window that was stuck down was not the quarter window but the main passenger window.

It was stuck down unrelated to the convertible top issue. After three days the window went back up.

I'm wondering if perhaps there is an electrical relay issue.

 

Hi Navyflyer,

I'd strongly suggest that you buy the proper Jaguar Parts & Workshop Manual on CDRom if you're going to run an XJS.

As regards, the hood pump, it's located in the boot behind the RH trim panel. Easy to get to - two button clips hold the trim in place.

As regards the window, very likely just to be a sticky window switch. They get gummed up. Remove the switch (carefully, as the switch plinth surround can crack easily when you try and remove it.) and clean it. Be careful when you take it apart as bits can fly everywhere!

Cheers

Paul

 

The relays do go bad, I have had to replace all mine. They do require heavy duty relays, get 40 amp rated ones, standard auto relays are 30 amp.

The power grounds through the relays, so any burned contacts can break the circuit. Usually relays are rated as 30/20 A, meaning 30 amps through the main power contacts, and 20 through a normally closed (87A) contact. Thus the motors are grounding through the weaker side of the relays.

I bought them off Digikey, rather than an auto parts place.

 

That is probably the switch, the contacts to get burned with use and the resistance increases. Make sure you get the OEM switches, not the ones made by Uro.

The originals have metal clips on the sides and fit the original openings. The Uro ones are plastic and don't fit.