The car is a 1995 XJS.
The cover on one of my lug nuts is loose and I can't get the lug nut off the wheel! Any ideas? I haven't been able to pound a smaller impact socket on the lug nut enough to get any traction on it.
Also, where can I get replacement lug nuts that don't have those awful covers? I've found these: JAGUAR XJ Mk1 XK8 XJS ALLOY WHEEL NUTS | eBay which seem quite expensive but possibly okay.
What about these? http://www.pepboys.com/product/detai...eel_studs_nuts it says they have a washer, which is correct, but would they work?

 

You can buy sockets that are designed to remove stripped/rounded lugnuts and/or locking lugnuts if the key has been lost. They work. Google 'locking lugnut removal socket' or similar. There are different kinds but they all work on the basis of teeth or blade-like ridges that 'bite into' the lugnut...providing the traction or purchase you need to remove it.




The Ebay ones look like they'd work on any of the Jag alloys I've seen.

I don't think the Pep Boys type would work

Cheers
DD

 

Thanks, Doug! I'll try the lug nut remover socket.
Does anyone have a source for good lug nuts without that chrome cover?

 

Also you could try cutting the tops off the cover with a dremel and splitting the cover off it so you can use the actual lug nut underneath

 

sidescrollin, I have been looking for an excuse to get a dremel!
I'm going to try the lug nut remover first. Then, I'm going to replace every single lug nut that has one of those covers!

 

As long as they are never over-torqued or put on or removed with the wrong sized socket, they shouldn't give you any issue.

 

SNGBarratt has both types. The original domed cost $22.68 and chromed cost $8.85 plus tax and shipping. SNG Barratt - The Ultimate Jaguar Parts Specialist
RagJag.

 

You don't need an excuse, they are useful for too many things to count. From using the cutting disks, buffing jewelry, cleaning with wire wheels, to sanding down the dogs nails, you need a dremel. Don't cheap out and get one without variable speeds. DO get cheap kits of replacement bits from harbor freight. All the items wear and break too much to pay dremels 7 dollars for some buffing pads and 6 dollars for a wire wheel

 

I ended up getting two of these:
10 Jaguar Vanden Plas XJ12 XJ6 XJ8 XJR XJS XK8 XKR Wheel Lug Nut Eurospare | eBay

Kinda wish I'd gotten them from SNG Barratt now. These look perfect and are reasonably priced:
SNG Barratt - The Ultimate Jaguar Parts Specialist

I think my next tool purchase will be a Dremel.

 

EastRando, $79 each. They would not fit my wheels as they are not long enough. Don't know why they are priced so high, either.
RagJag

 

should be able to basically split the cap across with a cutoff wheel and then use a chisel or screwdriver you don't care about and hammer to continue the cut down the sides until the cover peels away

 

RagJag, $79 was for 10 lug nuts. They're not as long as the original lug nuts, so they'll end up being deeper in the wheel, but as long as they don't have the stupid caps, I'll be happy.

 

I got all of the lug nuts off my car and replaced them with new ones! I used the technique of hammering an impact socket onto the nuts and just using a breaker bar for leverage to remove them. I attached some pictures to explain:
1. This is the wheel I couldn't remove the nuts from. I did remove the nut with a hole in it, but it got damaged when I was trying to get it out of the impact socket.
2. This time around, I hammered a 22 mm impact socket onto the nuts, then used a breaker bar to loosen them. This is the damaged nut I mentioned above.
3. This is the nut I had the most problems with when I first tried to remove it. The cap was so loose that I couldn't get the correct size of socket onto it. This time, I was just more persistent with pounding the 22 mm impact socket on.
4. This illustrates the problem. The chrome cap on top of the steel nut gets damaged or loose over time and makes it difficult to get the proper 22 mm socket over it. I had to use the hammer technique on at least 13 of the 20 nuts.
5. Someone had already replaced the 5 nuts on one rear wheel with this type of capless nut. It's also 22 mm. It's the same length as the original nuts, it just doesn't have the chrome cap. I think this is the type available here: SNG Barratt - The Ultimate Jaguar Parts Specialist
6. This is what the new nuts look like. They have the same threading, neck, and washer. They're just a lot shorter than the original nuts and hopefully won't have any cap-related problems.
7. This is what the new nuts look like installed. Since they're shorter than the originals, they are more receded into the wheel.

 

EastRando, Your wheels are different from my 1996 wheels. Those nuts look fine.
RagJag

 

RagJag, that's interesting. I thought the lug nuts were the same on all XJSs.

 

Eastrando,

As you've realised there are different length shaft nuts fitted to XJSs, depending on the type of wheels. The ones you've bought may be ok, but you do need to check very carefully that they are sitting properly on the wheel recess to the hub threads and not fouling on the short end of the shaft before the tapered shoulder has seated properly.

The 5-spoke wheels fitted to your car originally had the long shaft nuts fitted at the factory, not the standard shaft nuts which were fitted on some other wheels. Was this just an aesthetic issue so the nut ends were visible on the 5-spoke wheels or was it because of the seating issue? I don't know, but please do check carefully before driving the car. If the nuts aren't seated properly, it could be very unfortunate!

Good luck

Paul

 

Thanks, ptjs1. The wheels are seated very firmly - any way I can tell for sure?

 

EastRando,

You could remove one nut and carefully measure the length of the exposed hub bolt threads from inside the shoulder of the wheel recess to the end of the bolt. Use a cocktail stick or similar. Then check that this length can fully fit inside the wheel nut without grounding against the inner end of the nut. This way you should be sure that the nut is fully tightening against the shoulder of the wheel before grounding on the end of the nut.

Good luck

Paul

 

Thanks, I'll do that.

 

Daytons most definitely don't use the same lug nuts as starfish or any other wheels