Hello, I'm looking for some electrical circuit parts to repair my 1996 Jag XJS 2+2 right side blower motor. The circuit board was probably made by valeo since it in a Valeo blower motor. The Power Transistor that we are looking for has a bolt on each end and the one in the original blower unit has the following id. no's.:MALAYSIA MJH016 0052. The circuit board has the following ID. No.'s: W962320D 000722. This Valeo blower motor code is: CCC7522 (right side blower motor). I'd appreciate it if you can give me a lead as to where I can find one. Thanks, Jorge from San Diego, CA. USA.

 

I've repaired both of my 94 blower motors. The actual repair isn't that hard if you can handle a soldering iron. But, getting the blowers out and then back in is a task
for a contorsionist. Try this link for a really nice how-to:
http://www.kelsey-forums.co.uk/cgi-b...=1218411150/13
Coventry West has a better replacement assembly for the XJS. Not cheap. $300+ each.

 

Here is the link at Jag-lovers that I originally used:
http://www.jag-lovers.org/xj-s/book/acblower.htm

 

Thanks Scarbro2011, I fixed the motor on my 96 Jag 2+2 but cannot get either motor to work in the 1st & 2nd position. They will only turn on in high. I can switch the motors down to the Low & Med. settings once they are on. I was wondering if there is a resistor separate from the one in the actual blower motor units. I am going to clean the switch to see if that takes care of the problem. Any suggestions?

 

Oh boy. It sounds like the relay is kicking in. It bypasses the transistor speed control
and lets the blower run full blast. The 1N4148 diode for the feedback is bad or the big power transistor is bad or not connected correctly.

 

Hello Robert, thank you for your response. A few more facts, my son, an engineer, said that the electrical diagram for the 96 jag blower motor is different than those in the links that you recommended that I observe. The power transistor is not the same kind and he says it doesn't work the same as those from previous years. The puzzle in my situation is that the left side blower wasn't working in the lower speeds before I connected the repaired blower. My son said that it would be unusual for both blowers to operate with the same problem. He thinks it might be the actual switch or something between the switch and the blower motors that isn't working correctly. I'm going to clean the contacts on the switch and see if that makes a difference. Any other suggestions on your side?

 

At least Jaguar did do some engineering to improve the blower controller.
I would suspect the new controller does have the relay for the high speed
bypass of the lower speed circuitry. If the high speed doesn't work on one side
then the control module for that blower has a problem. Both blowers are connected to the same switch. The switch position provides a control voltage to the darlington transistor that allows a measured amount of current to flow through the motors.
If the control voltage wire is broken or the circuit for that path is open, then that whole blower won't work. Also if something is jammed into the blower fan,
a screw or some foam.... Or the blower motor is kaput.
Hopefully the extraction of the blower assembly is not as tedious as it is for the 1994
XJS.

 

I think we may be getting into some differences between XJS vs. XJ40 systems as well as Delanair vs. Valeo manufactured.

Cheers
DD

 

Hello Doug & Robert, I believe Doug's comment is accurate. The 96 XJS 2+2 is probably different than the 94-95. We repaired the right Blower. It had been stuck in "High" and the agency removed the fuse so that it wouldn't kill the battery. My son replaced the transistor with a similar one based on the damaged one (causing a short) and the wire diagram for the 96 XJS. The left blower was not working in the "Low-Med" settings prior to reconnecting the right Blower. So, whatever is causing the problem is causing it for both blowers. We then connected the right Blower and it also didn't work in the "Low-Med" settings. My son didn't find anything else wrong with the circuit board on the Blower unit. So, we believe the problem must be between the Blower and the switch. I tried to remove the switch and couldn't figure it out after removing the radio. He seems to think that it isn't the switch. I don't have a service manual for the 96 XJS so I'm at a loss on how to remove the temperature control unit to check the switch. Are next step is to check the wiring from the temp control unit to the Blower motor wiring. Any suggestions?

 

I forgot to mention that both blower's work in the "Low-Med" speeds after they start in "High". That's why my son believes that the switch is good because it wouldn't allow the blower's to work in the lower speeds after working in "high".

 

My apologies to both Robert and Doug for confusing the discussion. Doug, you’re right about this being a Valeo climate control situation vs. the Delanair system. My son was right, the transistor on my 96 XJS 2+2 is doesn’t control the speeds, it only manages the amount of ohms sent to the blower motor. We tested the wiring system to see how this control unit works since we eliminated the switch as the source of the problem since it controlled the speeds once we turned the blowers on through the “High” setting. We tested the wires coming from the wire harness for continuity and variations in amps at the “Low”, “Med”, and “High” settings. We found that little to no ohms were being sent to the blower in the Low-to-Med settings and up to 8.0 ohms at the High setting. However, we heard a clicking noise and movement in both of the lower settings as we moved the switch from Low to Med.

I decided to read the Driver’s handbook to see if it explained the workings of this unit. Well, that’s where we found the answer. In Section 6, Climate Control, the author explains that the fan switch works in tandem with the Temp. control switch. In fact, they recommend that when the system is in “Automatic”, the Temp. control should always be set at 75 degrees and the fan switch at “2” (Med). So, the fan will turn on when the Climate control unit senses that the car’s interior needs air. Once the blowers are on, you can lower or raise the amount of air (speed) that will be produced by the blowers. That means that the control switch cannot be manually turned on while the unit is in Automatic unless you override the Climate Control sensors by switching the fan switch to “3” or High.

You also have a “Manual” setting that will override the Climate Control sensors to a certain extent. We found that we could turn the blowers on in “1” or “2” settings if the Temp. control was set at extreme high or low and the “face level temp control” was set in the same setting as the Temp. control.

Finally, the author has a note on page 84 that further explains the complexity of this system when he states: “After a period of standing, if heating is required, the fans will not operate (except in defrost) until the engine temperature is sufficient to warm incoming air.”

So, there you have it. The problem has been solved.

 

Heh heh.....

I'm glad things are all sorted .

I've owned several cars, including three Jags, with automatic climate control. Only one....my old Ser III XJ6...worked the way I thought it should.

I say "thought it should" because so often these climate control systems have built-in logic that goes wayyyyy beyond, and in definace of, my own built-in logic.

To be honest I'd be prefectly content with a manual control system, as uncivilized as it might be in a high-end car. I've never found it too laborious or beneath my station in life to manually adjust the settings as needed :-)

Cheers
DD

 

I could really use help on my 1993 XJS Coupe. I removed the blower and was going to replace the Transistor on the blower control. As I removed the transistor two condencors became unsoldered and dropped off the board. I have no clue where to replace them. I looked at "Jag Lovers" Alan's schematic and thought i would rebuild to it, but he shows the transistor with three leg and both transistors he references have two legs. My transistor, 2NG284, has two legs. I have been all over the Internet looking for a schematic and have found none but Alan's. I was hoping some one had a schematic or could explain Alan's drawing. What am I missing?
Thanks
afterburner



Alan's Schematic:


http://www.jag-lovers.net/xj-s/book/acblower.htm

 

Hi!
Could you post a picture(s) of the module and the components?

The actual transistor should be : 2N6284G. Not a 2NG284.
This is a TO3 case - 2 legs plus the case as the 3rd leg.
The base is leg 1, the emitter is leg 2, the case is leg 3.
The transistor is a Darlington-pair power transistor component and is used
to switch low voltage/high current circuits.
This unit is rated for 100VDC/20Amps/~160Watts.

The Darlington Power transistors can come in a different package,
the TO-220 which is a flat black component with 3 legs mounted on a
metal base-tab. The metal tab is actually part of one of the legs.
Which one depends on the manufacturer.
The tab is generally used for mechanical mounting and
to act as a heat sink.
Depending on the circuit layout, the metal tab will be electrically isolated
with a wafer of mica or other insulating material.
This may be the type of case you are using if you actually have
a component with 3 legs.

The capacitor in the circuit is for noise filtering to prevent false signal
spikes from triggering the switching circuit and to provide some overvoltage
protection for the transistor. The one on the fan circuit is really small in size.
Maybe the components you are referring to are the 2 diodes (can be called rectifiers) in the circuit. Need a photo to be sure.

 

To Scarbro 2011
You are right; it is a 2N6284. It has two legs and was isolated from the chassis when mounted (Manufacturers Part and build) The Collector is the case.

The Capacitors are still the problem for me. and they were associated with the base and emitter of the transistor. I think I have a positive ID on one. It is a 47mfd 16v electrlytic, and the others is iffy .01uf. If I can determine where they are placed in relation to the transistor, I will be home free. Otherwise, I have three options: eliminate the capacitors entirely, build a new circuit using Alan's schematic Air conditioning blower control pull the right blower and look at that circuit. (The latter would be a last case scenario!!!) What I would like to do is go back to the Jaguar design without pulling the second blower, but for that I need the schematic.
Your thoughts?

 

The article from Jag-lovers pertains to a Delanair Mk III as used on a 1988 XJS.


Just for giggles you might seek out a schematic for the Delanair Mk IV system as used in the later XJ40s. From my limited research it appears very similar to the Mk III system but apparently had enough changes to merit a new designation.

(I've often wondered if the Mk IV systems were used on the facelift XJSs. Can anyone confirm?)

Anyhow......

If you can find a MK IV diagram it might answer your questions....

Cheers
DD

 

Thanks for your response


Don't do well posting pictures and most of the board is cleared. The capacitors sat next to the transistor but were not provided holes for soldering. They were placed into puddles of solder.That why they drop off.

Two holes were drilled for the transistor and the case was isolated by plastic there was no connection to the case


Don't understand why Alan connected the case and Jaguar didn't?


With your help I can now build to Alan's drawing, if I choose that route.


A question I have is if I build to Alan's plan, and the other fan has the Jaguar plan, Will the circuits be unbalanced and fail to function properly?


If I was less than 86 I would pull the second blower, I got my son to pull the first. getting him to pull the second might be a stretch! Fortunately I can test the defective blower unmounted in the car before installation.


Appreciate your thoughts and responses. Hopefully, this correspondence will help other members
TUVM
Afterburner

 

Think I have got it figured out. First, the transistor collector is part of the circuit. It looked isolated but was connected by the bolts. Another member sent me scematics for the 1993 (my car) but they had little resemblance. With my parts, his schematics, Alan's drawing. and your help, I think I have the proper circuit...albeit, one capacitor is not accounted for. I am not concern about it, because it doesn't show on any schematics.
Will do a temporary hook up in the car and let you know the results

 

Hi!
Nothing like experiencing the joy of exploring the Lord of The Dark, aka Lord Lucas, electronics on a Jaguar.
After finishing this repair I felt almost as demented as he was then.

Both of the blower modules in my 1994 XJS 2+2 would not work except when
placed on top speed. The electronics control the flow of DC voltage through the
fan motor at lower speeds along with the dash climate control module.
Except when it is on top speed. Then the relay just bypasses
all of the control circuitry and delivers full voltage to the fan motor.
The blower control module in Alan's pictures and the schematic pretty much
match the one out of my 1994 XJS 2+2 convertible.

I have been repairing electronics since 1966 thanks to my USAF Ground Radio
Repair training. Several computer companies and AT&T phone companies
supplied more training since then.

There were 5 components: 2 diodes, 1 transistor, 1 resistor and 1 capacitor.
I cleaned both of the fan control modules up, removed the components and
removed all of the excess solder from the circuit boards.
Using a Digital Volt-Ohm meter (DVM) I tested the resistor, the 2 diodes -
one was bad and the other was suspicious.
The transistor was toast. The circuit module definitely was burned around
the transistor due to a faulty heat sink paste placement.
The 2nd blower assembly had the same problem.
I then installed new transistors, 4 new diodes,
a new capacitors (Same capacitance- larger voltage rating) and the
original resistors onto the circuit modules along with small heat sink and
better heat sink paste application.

This was in late 2006. The units are still working today.
Since I live about 20 miles from the Coventry West facility, I got to examine
one of the rebuilt/reengineered units they sell and they are worth the money!
Better fan motors, better circuits. Very nice!
Of course this was several years after my repair of my units.

The drivers side unit is VERY difficult to remove and replace. The vinyl blower
tube replacement is easier(?) if you use duct tape and tape it to the blower
housing before attempting to install it. I also removed the drivers seat to provide
better access.
I am 6' and the drivers seat removal was very necessary.
Also use a air jet to blow out the underside of the dash to keep dirt out of your eyes later.
I made about 55 cents recovering the loose change under the seat.

The passenger side blower was easier and did not require the seat removal.
I did have to remove several fuse box mounting brackets which made the
reinstall a lot easier.

The removal of the mounting nuts and the Vinyl air tube wasn't too bad.
But putting them back in was a nightmare on the drivers side.
If you have tiny hands it probably would not be too difficult.
The back of my hands suffered many cuts due to the safety engineering by
Gillette of small exposed metal componets under the dash.

Nice thing about a convertible is you can always let the top down to get a breeze
if the fans stop working. . . [8^)

As always, POR (Press On Regardless).

 

Bench tested the blower in the car, and it works! Followed Alan's schematic including the upgrade of the transistor. I used a NTE2349. Started the car and had a hurricane. I did not replace any thing else. Only tested each component.
Small world. I retired from the USAF in 1970. Was assign to AACS through out my career. Learn a smattering of electronics when I was a 2LT with the oldest GCA unit in the world. AN/MPN #2. Equipped with two 522, four channel, VHF radios.Bring back memories? Old unit but with skilled operators could crack zero zero approaches day in and out. From some of my question I think you figured out I was in the 6L6 and 5U4 era
Thanks again for all your help. It was really appreciated
afterburner