Hey guys - how do I open/close the hood correctly - is it open from LHS and then do you slam shut or do you pull lever again and just glide shut? From which side should youa ctuaklly start shutting (LHS, middle or RHS).

Thanks!

 

On older model cars they used the lever to pull the bonnet closed but on later models like ours they changed to the slam method I wish they hadn't!!

Be very careful, lower the bonnet to with a foot or so and then let go. There should be enough force to engage the latches, if not just go to each corner and press down till it engages.

If you just let go from high up or push it with force, the bonnet can sometimes twist slightly causing the side of the bonnet to hit the top of the fender and gouge the paint.

Cheers,

Allan

 

About the transmission: I would suggest you go over the earlier posts, I know that with a lot of replies we tend to miss some things.... Basically if your light is ONLY coming on when your vehicle is stalling AND your shifting is normal, then there is a 99% chance you do not have any type of transmission problem. Even if the light was in all the time, that typically points to an electrical problem in the transmission rather than mechanical.

 

I wish they had not changed the lever either! Going to each corner is the best thing to do .

 

Agreed.

Also if you take your car in to be serviced, make sure to tell/show the mechanic how to close the bonnet. In my experience they just give it a shove

 

Mschor, I bought my 1996 2+2 4.0 about a year ago. It ran fine for a few months and then I had the stalling at idle problem. I replaced all the coils and spark plugs. No change. I replaced the air filter. No change. I replaced the idle air stepper motor and it quit stalling so much. I drilled a 3/32" hole in the throttle valve butterfly and it does not stall now. The miss is gone at idle too. I don't know if the little hole (to lean out the idle mixture a bit) or the stepper motor did the job or if it will return to the miss and stall in the near future. For now I am happy. I admit I did think the extra air coming into the throttle body would increase the idle rpm a little but it is still at 600 rpm.
Many 4.0 drivers have had the stalling at idle problem so don't feel lonely.
Cheers, RagJag

 

I'm a newbie to this posting, was looking for answers to my intermittent starting problem which I've listed on another post. But I ran across your post and replies and felt a brotherly closeness to you and your new ride.

Congrats on your BRG with coffee interior XJS.

I've been driving British cars for years, but thought I could never afford a Jaguar (loved the E-type since the day they came out), but a good friend, with 4 or 5 Jags of various vintages told me that the AJ16 cars were 200,000 mile cars. He uses one as a daily driver, bought with 30k miles, has over 120k on it now.

So I bought one on ebay, sight unseen. $4,800, private party said he would trust it to drive a 1,000 mile road trip. Other than a slight vibration at 65 mph and a little "wandering" problem on the highway, it has been an outstanding car. bought with 97k miles, now have 103K miles.

And now just having my first problem that it most like some normal maintenance.

For the record, I have replaced all brake pads & disks, all six shock absorbers and put all new bushings and ball joints in the front end. Drove a lot better, but still had the wandering problem. I replaced the steering rack, steering was tighter, but still the wandering.

In talking with the Kurt Roehrig, running SCCA Trans-Am, at a race earlier this year, he told me to simply change the caster on the front suspension, angle the front tires at the top towards the front.

Oh, what a difference! No wandering.

That is the lesson that the other guys are telling you. Don't throw money at the car in replacing parts, but be patient, research issues out, even if only on this forum, and you will save money and enjoy your car so much more.

Attached is a photo of my 1995.

 

Nice looking car!! I have a BRG too and think it looks smashing

You are exactly right, by doing some basic maintenance, changing fluids, filters, checking that electrical connectors and grounds are clean etc you give yourself a baseline so that when a problem does crop up you might be able to track it down a little easier. It is all to easy to get what I call replace-itis and start changing out often expensive parts because you think they are the culprit rather than actually diagnosing the problem. Many, many times you will just be chasing your tail. The old tailor's adage "measure twice, cut once" comes to mind

Cheers,

Allan

 

What, they come in other colors?? ;-)

 

I used to have a 1995 6.0 XJ-S convertible. Loved it to bits and only let it go to finance my daughter's college tuition. I always referred to its color as British Racing Green, as that is the classic Jag color. I was surprised to find the paint code was actually for a Brooklands Green. I still called it BRG!

 

Second light is definitely low coolant.

 

Anybody know where I can download an XJS service manual. My '94 six needs some work.
Thanks

 

You can download the electrical here http://www.captainjaguarscathouse.co...ec%20Guide.pdf

I don't believe there is a downloadable service manual but you can buy the service manual in book or CD format online at any number of places like Ebay, JDHT, Jag parts dealers etc.

Cheers,

Allan

 

I'm reading posts from 2013 on working to correct a hesitation upon start of acceleration and intermittent starting problems that I believe from a lack of spark or fuel. Spikepaga and AllanG have been absolutely wonderful in their simple but detailed preventative maintenance procedures. We along with mschor do share the BRG XJS AJ16 roadsters. Actually mine is a Brooklands Green, with coffee interior, 1995, bought with 97k miles on it for under $5k.
It has been dependable, but quite a bit of deferred maintenance. Brakes, tires that roll correctly, suspension bushings front and rear, shocks all around, steering rack, plus some new leather on the front seats.

Man, what a wonderful car. I have enjoyed it for three years and 10,000 miles.

Thanks gentlemen, for the advice you share with us!

found a post after this one was published that I already thanked you guys. But a reiteration of that Thank you is important to me. Your advice has really made my ownership of this car so much easier and prideful.

updated photo of the car. I do have the celebration wheels for sale if anybody interested.

 

My car is identical to yours and you can get it going well. The idle is correct at 600 rpm. Possibly the dealer shop can help but also is possible they are as in the dark as you are. I would suspect TPS first and then EGR valve. Try those two first, which will cost about $200 for parts.
I will say that your not having much mechanical skills isn't good but no one does before they start wrenching. Have a go.
Cheers, RagJag

 

Mschor, welcome to the board. Since like me you're not mechanically inclined (though you may grow to be), you've learned some valuable lessons in buying a used XJS:

- read the buyers guide posted here
- go for an extended test drive (with a forum member if possible)
- take pictures
- post pics here and get feedback (whether you like it or not lol)
- have a PPI (pre purchase inspection) done

Or, you know - fly across country, buy based on emotion and enjoy the ride

Your issues don't sound like the end of the world - I'm sure you can get her sorted.

 

Captjag no longer in service......

 

I always wondered what happened to Captain Jaguars Cathouse. Anyone know the story?

 

Wheels Hub Caps, Filters Filter Kits items in Captain Jaguar's Cathouse store on eBay!

 

I wish they had kept the hood like the older models are too. Such an awful design! My latches sometimes close back up after opening the hood so if you aren't paying attention and you try to slam the hood (like a mechanic did on mine!) the hood bounces off the closed latches and you get small dents/bumps in your hood on each corner. Mine has those now...grrr. $1600 to remove the bumps and repaint the hood, thank you very much.

Does anyone know how to adjust the latches so they stay open after you've opened the hood? I really don't want to paint my hood only to have it happen again.