A loss of brake fluid was my only indicator of rear brake failure. No loss in performance, and no noise.
Now that I have removed the axle cage and the calipers and rotors I have found one seized piston and three pads worn so badly that the steel backing on the pad was worn through and the pistons were also worn.The pistons had protruded from the calipers to the point that the seals were exposed.
The lesson here is to check pads regularly. The brakes get hot due to the close proximity of the exhaust and being inboard, and sometimes the internal failure of the flex hose, causing the brakes to drag.
I am going to replace calipers, rotors, pads and flex hose. My local Jag dealer will not work on pre 2002 model Jags, and a local "import performance car specialist" has stopped working on inboard brakes due to caliper rebuild warranty problems he has experienced.
Here are my questions:
Rebuilt calipers are available from NAPA, $62.99 ea; Auto Zone, $179.98 ea;Rock Auto/ Centric $51.79 ea; O'Reileys not available.Auto Parts Way $77.78ea; Cardone $57.98 ea; Beck Arnley $77.33ea. all the above add core and shipping charges. Who has the most reliable product?
How do you apply the proper torque to the caliper attachment bolts since a torque wrench will not fit in the space? Do you tighten with a box end wrench and a dead blow hammer? Do you rely on thread lock and wire lock?
I may attempt a pinion seal replacement; any tips and suggestions?
I noted a previous thread by Afterburner1; if I could have found a shop to do this job in a couple of hours per side I would have gladly done it. Truly a miserable job!
Lawrence

 

I've had good luck with Centric and Cardone rebuilt calipers. I'm sure the NAPA ones would be fine; NAPA generally sells good stuff.

Caution:

Try buying the calipers locally. Here's why:

You'll naturally pay a core charge, refundable on return of your old calipers. But the calipers are heavy and therefore return shipping to the seller may very exceed the core value. Thus you end up eating the core charges.


Most use Loctite on the bolts rather than safety wire but since the cage is out the lock-wiring isn't too difficult and actually sorta fun. You could do both. But, if you don't have the safety wire and special tool it isn't worth buying them solely for this task. Just use the Locktite.

As for torque specs, well, I just go as tight as I can with normal size hand tools....no extensions for extra power.

*Personally* I avoid pinion seal replacements unless the leak is an absolute gusher. On reassembly you must reset the nut to the *exact* same torque/position or you'll have pinion bearing problems. Even veterans can run into problems here.

Cheers
DD