I purchased a new-to-me 96 XJS-C last week. While it's not perfect, it's a very nice driver. This is my second Jaguar - I previously owned a 96 XJ6 that was a wonderful car.

I bought it as-is, but noticed that a) the power top didn't work. I hear it "click" when I engage the switch/button and the rear windows lower, but nothing doing with the top. Upon further inspection, I found the mystery plug and hose under the battery tray. There was also oily fluid, most likely hydraulic fluid..

Can anyone identify this plug? It has electrical tape covering it, but it wasn't immediately clear what it is for.



Mystery plug and hose...

Also, the park brake is inoperable. My guess is the cable may have rusted in the engaged position and they either cut or otherwise removed it. How hard is it to inspect/service the park brake? Maybe the hose and plug have something to do with that (although I believe they are drop top-related). I'm a mechanical novice but I'm not afraid to try.

It needs the steering rack replaced - it leaks fluid into the dust boots that will spill if the car is lifted (didn't notice that until I got it home, raised the front end and the 4 inch puddle appeared...). I expect it will make sense to replace any bushing at that time - from reading other posts, it sounds like OE rubber on the shocks and polyurethane on the rack, sway bars, etc. Anyone hazard a guess at what I should pay for that service (too much for a hack like me to take on). I live in suburban Minneapolis / St. Paul, MN. If anyone has a trustworthy shop that doesn't charge an arm and a leg, let me know. Otherwise, I'll take my beating like a man and bring it to the Jaguar dealership.

Thanks very much in advance - I'm really looking forward to enjoying my great new-to-me car!

 

First of all, I believe Top Gear Autoworks in your area has a functioning PDU. That's good news for you and your 1996. When you have an issue with your idle being too high, that's when to suck it up and take it in. That machine is the only way to fix it. (That I know of)

Second, get a repair manual. The green covered ones on eBay for about $80 is what you want.

Third, sounds like if you have any mechanical ability, experts not needed but always helpful, you'll be able to do a lot of the work yourself.

I'm not sure what that taped up hose is, but I can check my car tomorrow for something similar.

If you're pulling the steering tack, yes apparently poly bushes are preferred only there. You may want to start ordering the other parts you'll need/want to replace, mostly to ensure you're using quality rubber.

You'll want to do the upper and especially lower control arm bushings. The upper ones you can do yourself, but the lower ones require the steering rack removed, I think. You should look that up. Use OEM parts here from the dealer. I think URO is too commonly found and would be a shame to use here, especially for the lower bushing.

You'll want upper and lower ball joints, lemfoerder only please.

You'll also want new tie rod ends. Lemfoerder not necessary, Moog should be fine.

I think that's it.

 

Hi Vee,

Thanks for the reply, advice and kind offer to check your car for comparison. I think rebuilding the front end (tie rod ends, ball joints, steering rack and all associated bushings) makes good sense. From what I've read, it should really refresh the handling capabilities.

Good tip on Top Gear - I didn't mention it, but when I first start the car, it idles at about 1,200 rpm, when I put it in gear it drops to around 700, when I put it back into park it starts at 1,000, but within 30-60 seconds it bounces back up to 1200-1300 rpm (kind of moves between the two). Does that sound like the high idle issue I've read about? If yes, Top Gear may be the right place to bring the car for all of the required service..?

I've also read the cam position sensor should be replaced at around 100K - mine's at 97K, so might be a smart preventative measure. It looks to cost under $100, would you agree that's a wise decision?

The hose that accompanies the "mystery plug" appears to go through the pan - there's a black urethane grommet around it. Just a plastic, black flexible tube. That's what had me wondering if it might be related to the park brake, but I can't imagine what purpose it could serve. Then again, I'm not an automotive engineer (understatement!).

 

When your XJS left the factory it was fitted with a battery that had a venting system. The black tube you found was originally attached to the battery and vented the battery gasses out of the trunk.

I'm sure your original battery is long gone and the replacement did not have a provision for the tube so the previous owner just left it on the floor. This is very common because it is difficult to find new batteries with vent tubes.

Mark

 

I believe the taped up connector is for the optional in-car telephone.

 

Safari, Roger95 - thanks very much for sharing your knowledge! I'm glad to learn these aren't "mods" that will require more fixing - I think I have my hands more than full at present.

I read something interesting in an old post - the member said the ebrake has to be engaged for the power top to operate, something about there being a switch or sensor that needs to read the ebrake as being engaged. My ebrake is non-functioning; pull the lever and nothing. It feels like the cable has been disconnected or cut..? The ebrake light stays illuminated. Question: is the ebrake an easy repair item or something best left to a true mechanic?

Also, forgot to ask in prior post - I also have a bad driver side rear wheel bearing. There was some play when trying to wiggle the tire. Again, easy fix or something requiring special tools, etc.?

Last, any comments on the idle issue? It runs at 1200-1300 after maybe 30 seconds of idling after taking it our of D or R. My guess is that this is the fast idle condition I've read about, which suggests it may be Top Gear Automotive time for the car. Thoughts?

Thanks, Dave

 

I found the plug in my car. It's zip tied to the frame holding the battery, unconnected. I'll post a picture later.

Your car should idle at around 600 in Park, and just over 700 in drive. If you're over 1,000rpm, then you'll need to have the idle adaptations reset. It should only cost you $150 for them to fix that for you.

While you're there, you can ask them to price out other work, or just pay them an hours labor to go over the car for you. You can decide what to let them do and what to tackle yourself!

 

Thanks, Vee. I've contacted Top Gear and am awaiting a reply with an appointment time.

 

I don't have an XJS. Mebbe one day??? I'm pleased with my
XJ wuzza six saloon!!!


1. Swapping the rear wheel bearings is doable, but not easy.


2. An Optima battery or similar subs nicely for a non available vented unit.


3. If you can get the rear of the car up on the air, SAFELY, you can check for park brake movement at the rear wheels. Yeah,
most drop tops have interlocks to prevent top down or up while in motion. We didn't use to need this? are we dumbing down???


Nice car, enjoy...


Carl.

 

Decided to do the front end work myself. I bought a new 4.0 XJS repair manual off Amazon for $65 delivered - I'm hoping it arrives soon.

Will order up the rack, polyurethane bushings for same and tie rod ends today. The guys at Top Gear told me to replace the ball joints only if required, since doing them now or later will only affect labor by 15 minutes. They said the same for shock bushings, etc. - he says if the shocks aren't "clunking " when I hit a bump the bushings are fine (for now). Will probably buy control arm and shock bushings so I have them on hand, but may not need to use them just yet.

I'll make an appointment to bring the car in for an inspection at Top Gear, and to have them address the high idle condition. I also plan to have the trans and brake fluids flushed/filled and will have them do that work as well. The mechanic at Top gear says he'd be surprised if the rear wheel bearing is actually bad - said he's only seen those fail a couple of times in 20+ years. He also says some degree of wheel "play" on the rear is normal (something to do with the axel design or something?). The car is making a strange, almost weak grinding noise that I can hear at low-moderate speed with top down. Might be the e-brake cable or something related to that issue? Quite possible - will know more post-inspection.
Anyway, I'm at least willing to give it a go. If anyone has any pointers, order of things, tools or trick related to replacing the steering rack and tie rod ends, your help is appreciated!

 

To replace the rack bushings is isn't too bad. There are 3 bushings, one on the right side and 2 on the left. If they are the factory rubber and steel bushings then you will need the special tool to take them out. You could jury rig something with a long bolt and 2 sockets, but space can be tight for the upper one and the special tool makes it much easier.

Leave all the lines connected, and just remove the rear bolts from the X cross brace. Let the rack pull down once you have removed the 3 bolts and rest it on the brace, then you can pull out the old bushings and put in the new ones. There are washers and a U shaped bracket on the left side, those will probably have to be left out to fit the poly bushings. Then the rack just pushes back into place, replace the 3 bolts through the bushings, replace the cross brace and then do a wheel alignment for toe.

 

As a side note, the steering rack is the only place where I would use poly bushings. I just finished removing all the others the PO put on the car, a) because they squeak like crazy over the slightest bump, and b) they were crap quality and were falling apart. The rack bushings failed and I could turn the steering wheel 1/2 turn and nothing happened. The bushings sheared off and what was left came out in several pieces

 

You can do a modification to remove the need to have the parking brake on to raise or lower the top. On the convertible module ( in the trunk, next to the pump) find the white 13 slot connector. In position 9 will be a black wire with a white stripe. This needs to be grounded for the top to go up. Usually that is done through a switch at the brake handle.

What I did was take the 13 slot connector apart and run a wire with a new pin on the end to match the existing wires and inserted that into the plastic connector body and grounded it. If you just ground the B/W wire then your brake warning light on the dash will always be lit.

 

The upper control arm bushings will set you back another $90 and probably add an hour to the project. Well worth it in my opinion. Make sure you use Lemfoerder only. Also, you have a full set of wrenches and sockets. I think you'll only need 8mm, 10mm, 13mm and 14mm in both forms.

When replacing the lower ball joint, it's an ideal time to get in there and remove the ABS sensor and give it a good cleaning.

 

Excellent advice - thanks to all who have commented. I did buy polyurethane bushings for the new steering rack. Will definitely replace tie rod ends. Will evaluate ball joints and control arms and replace if warranted. Same with bushings - will use rubber anywhere besides the rack. Will clean the ABS module.

There's a great steering rack replacement tutorial in the how-to stickies. His is a 94 6L V12 - is the process radically different? It usually seems the v12 is more complex, but maybe this is an instance where the opposite is true?

I was hoping I didn't need any jaguar-specific tools. Auto Zone and O'Reilly's auto parts loan out tools for diy'ers, but I'm sure they won't have any jaguar tooling... I'd hate to tear into it, only to tow it into the shop and pay full price for them to finish the job. Hmm.

 

Did an internet search - it looks like the steering rack bushing removal tool costs about $50 plus shipping, which will add maybe $15 more. I'll order it up!

Any how-to or tips on removing/replacing the steering rack, tie rods and upper and lower control arm bushings on a 96 XJS-C with 4.0L engine is much appreciated! If the steering rack replacement process is essentially the same for 4.0L as for 6.0L, I can use the sticky posted on this site. I have ordered the XJS 4.0L service manual and should receive it shortly, so I'll have some guidance.I'm just wondering if those of you who've "been there, done that" have any tips for the backyard mechanic.


I plan to follow Vee's advice and buy poly bushings for the steering rack but Lemforder rubber bushings for control arms. I'll probably buy Moog tie rods and if required, Lemforder ball joints. I plan to pay Top Gear to do an assessment and tell me what is worn and in need of replacing vs. just replacing a bunch of parts. That's what they suggest and it seems to make sense - I'm sure I'll have plenty of opportunities to spend money on the car - for now, I just want to safely drive it.

Any / all advice welcomed. Thanks in advance.

 

Vee, any North American source for Lemforder upper control arm bushings? Can't seem to locate those.

Also, you previously said I should replace upper and lower control arm bushings. I've read that replacing the lowers can be difficult, but that may be vehicle-specific. Can you clarify - do you suggest uppers only, or both upper and lower bushings?

 

1. Apologies. Checked my records. I purchased OEM bushings from Jagbits. Now that I know what's involved, perhaps it's not the end of the world to buy aftermarket. It's really not all that tough to change our the upper bushings.

2. Lower control arm bushings are a beast. I haven't ever done that job. I don't think I found a shop that would quote me anything less than four digits to replace that part! Take a pass on it unless you know for sure they're failing.

3. By the way, I have no experience changing out steering rack bushes...poly or rubber, so I think you were taking someone else's advice. Let me know how it goes, if you end up tackling that job yourself! I'm penciling in that job for next year.

 

Hi Vee, these were cut/pasted from your first comment to my post:

"If you're pulling the steering rack, yes apparently poly bushes are preferred only there. You may want to start ordering the other parts you'll need/want to replace, mostly to ensure you're using quality rubber.

You'll want to do the upper and especially lower control arm bushings. The upper ones you can do yourself, but the lower ones require the steering rack removed, I think. You should look that up. Use OEM parts here from the dealer. I think URO is too commonly found and would be a shame to use here, especially for the lower bushing."

Most here seem to agree that polyurethane bushings - on the rack only - are a good idea. I've ordered a set of those from englishparts.com. I've seen quite a few reputable sites that sell the same product (CAC1635K), so I assume they're of decent quality.

Upper control arm bushings are very hard to find, that is, unless I buy URO. I'll try Jagbits. The steering rack itself has also proven hard to ID - as I've posted in a different thread, there are servo and non-servo models, as well as 3 and 4 bolt versions of both of those. I'm not sure how to determine exactly what I need, but the 4 bolt non-servo is the least expensive, so my guess is that's the most common. Then again, these are Jaguars, so maybe the most expensive part is the most common?

I hope to get the last of my parts (for now) on order and will be dropping the car off for an inspection tomorrow. I'll let you know what I hear. Thanks again for all of your advice.

 

Have you tried Coventry West? Might be best to call, rather than look on the website, as they have lots that isn't on their website.