That PS, oops, I was referring to you noticing the change in the terminals on the fuel pump, 99% missed by many, and the car no starts.

Assumption 1. That will be loooooong, so I will write a Word Doco and post it here when done.

Assumption 2. Same length, so a 2nd Word Doco wil follow.

Fresh fuel here would be 100% needed. Also all that "stuff" in the tank has probably blocked the fuel filter. That will give NO fuel up the front, and all sorts of grief.

 

sounds like I should drain the tank and rinse out the fuel filter as a first step

 

Replace the filter, cheap as chips, and well worth the effort, no matter what.

 

will do. ordering it now.

I'll replace the filter, siphon the existing gas out of the tank, put a couple
gallons of 93 octane in and try that before I start taking the fuel injectors apart. I am guessing you were going to get to that at some point if nothing else worked.

PS...I wish I had a teacher who looks like yours.

 

Brad, have you definitively proved that the pump is or is not working, and if it is, whether there either is, or is not, fuel under pressure at the rail?
Greg

 

Greg, No. I just replaced it so am 99% certain that the pump is not the issue. I haven't checked for pressure at the fuel rail yet. won't be able to do so until later this weekend. In the mean time I will get a new fuel filter and siphon out the existing gas.

 

Dont forget the sump tank also.

Under the RH side of the boot floor is a rubber grommet, if you are blessed, remove it, the sump tank drain spigot is looking right at you.

Attach a hose to that spigot, loosen it about 1 full turn ONLY, and fuel will flow out, along with crud and other goodies.

PLEASE TAKE THE REQUIRED CARE, AS FUEL GOES BANG.

Greg is right on that fuel pressure quickie, it will eliminate a lot of other items if in fact there is liquid under pressure at the rail inlet fitting.

That teacher is a all mine, find ya own, HAHA>

 

OK, will do. I have the lower cover off already so getting to the sump is easy. I am suspecting more and more that the old fuel is the main culprit here. I see it clearly on the illustration and picture from google.

 

I see the picture on the google site. Not sure which one is the drain spigot? Should I just take the whole unit out once I get the main tank emptied.

 

You need to get under the boot floorpan, right under the car, and you will see a rubber bung in the floorpan under the sump tank. Prise it out and you can then access the drain plug from below the car.
Greg.

 

Greg is correct, ya gotta get under the beast.

This the parts drawing, and #2 is the drain spigot, and #3 is the grommet.

 

Here is PDF #1, and a few other older Doco's taht go through a lot of things.

I still cannot get my head into the fact this thing was running, you removed the cap to check the internals, very clever, and good on you, and now it dont run.

BUT, you do mention the gunk you have added to stale fuel, so maybe it just ran to humour you, and then you fiddling and then not running is not connected.

I understand your market is Ethanol fuel mainly, and the little of that we have my knowledge is limited, if not zero, but I do know it is not a fuel to be stored for very long, apparently it "goes off".

XJS no start with fuel at the front.pdf

V12 EFI schematics Australian cars.pdf

Adjusting the HE TPS.doc

HE Tune up.doc

XJ-S ECU Pinout table.doc

Some bedtime reading whilst I write the other one.

 

Grant, Greg,

Veterans Day here today. I think it is the same in France, England, And Australia.

I drained about 8 gallons of gas from the main tank. A bit more to go. I got under the car and saw the rubber plug but did not take it out yet to get to the sump pump drain. That's tomorrow. The gas does look bad. I didn't put a match to it to test it though. Some garbage in the bottom of the bucket I collected the gas in. I also removed the fuel gauge sending unit. It was all full of rust. I started to clean it up but a wire broke so I guess I'll be getting a new one of those now.

Once I have the main tank and sump tank drained (hopefully tomorrow, Sunday at the latest) I will install the new fuel filter. After that I will put 2-3 gallons of new hi octane gas in. From there I will do the "turn the key three times" and see what happens.

 

Brad
Depending upon the amount of rust in the main tank and sump tank, you may have to face getting it out somehow, even if removing the main tank is a major pain; because the rust may well block the system again quite soon.
Greg

 

ALSO, and to protect your nice new pump.

When the system in drained, look at that sump tank top, and tap the locking ring that will release the pipe assembly which has a filter pushed over the end of that pipe that is inside the tank. This is the pick up filter, and the ONLY barrier to MUCK getting into your NEW pump.

Same drawing as above. #16 is the ring, #18 is the filter, and #17 is the seal YOU WILL NEED A NEW ONE OF THESE.

That filter also has a habit of falling off the pick up pipe, as well as getting clogged very quickly, so please pay particular attention to this filter nonsense.

NEXT.

The pipe that comes out of the main tank and takes the fuel to the sump tank, blocks up with any crud that gathers inside the main tank, and that prevents the fuel flowing by gravity to the sump tank.

The fact you have found crud in the bucket already, I think you have some serious work ahead of you.

 

Grant, Greg,

After peering into the tank thru the fuel sender opening and the fuel filler neck, I removed it, I have made the decision to remove the entire main tank and have it cleaned. I will do the same with the sump tank. Given the degree of rust I observed I think this would be a never ending series of problems unless I fix it from the root cause.

Today I got the main retaining straps off, the fuel filler neck, and one of the vent hoses on the top right. To get the main tank out I will need a friends help but it should go quickly. I just have to remove the two nuts on each corner and then the hose from the main tank to the sump. From there it is just a matter of man handling it out of the trunk.

This is more work than I anticipated but the car is 30 years old. If I try to take shortcuts with this issue I am certain I will regret it, likely at a very inopportune time and place.

 

Did some research and it looks like I can clean the tank myself - and save a lot of money. Environmentally friendly as well. Will do it in a 4 step process.

Step 1: Use about 1/2 gallon muriatic acid from a pool supply store, slosh around the tank with a handful of nuts and bolts. Rinse with hot water and baking soda.

Step 2. Using a 4 gallon vinegar and water 50/50% solution rotate the tank on all sides for about an hour on each side. Rinse with water and soap.

Step 3. Wash inside of tank with hot soapy water. Shake vigorously with handful of nuts and bolts to clean any left over rust deposits. Rinse with clean water. Dry with hair dryer.

Step 4. Coat inside of tank with Eastwood fuel tank sealer. Dry with hair dryer.

The sump tank should be easier to do. Some vinegar and water and then rotate the tank on each side for about 15-20 minutes per side should have it clean as a whistle. Rinse, dry, and seal.

Total cost:

 

Good move.

I usually REMOVE all the relays etc on the RH side of the inner boot wall. That is the Fuel pump relay etc. Tuck the wires well clear coz when you are manhandling that tank out you might just miss them being caught.

 

Extremely good decision Brad. An example to all. As The Great XJS Prophet Grant Francis says: do it right, do it once, do it all, never worry about it again.
Greg

 

Grant and Greg,

Thanks, I'll keep you posted. Brad