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If your meter has a diode test function (it will have a diode symbol) the diode should read 0.5-1 volts in one direction and infinite the other.
If your meter does not have a diode test function use ohms and it give a reading (this will depend on the diode type) one way and be infinite ohms the other.
The first 2 pics are my meter in the diode test function.
The 2nd 2 pics are my meter on the ohms range.
You should see reading something like these, they may not be exactly the same as each diode will read slightly different.
I tested both Diodes (LBD6 and LBD7 )that came off the Yellow ABS relay. The wire splits After the WU and WK wires into two diodes. Both come out at around .730's and a value of 1 when reversed.
Last edited by Jimmy James 905; Aug 23, 2016 at 12:29 PM.
They look OK, the 1 will be equivalent to the OL on my meter.
Now you need to check the harness.
Disconnect BOTH ends so the harness to the pump is NOT plugged into anything, then check continuity to the body on all wires, they should ALL be open circuit.
There is quite a number of plastic push on pinchweld pieces that should be on the edges of the metal where cable looms run, if these are missing or broken the loom can rub on the body until it wears through the insulation and POOF blown fuses.
*SOLVED*
Special thanks to all members who helped and especially to warjon for his extremely helpful electrical advice. Couldn't have done it without you.
It turned out to be a pinched wire 2 feet from the female ABS pump harness.
Unwrapped wires until I found the pinch while continuously testing continuity.when the beep on the multimeter went off I knew I found it. Pinch was caused by a wire tie pulled too tight against brake lines running along firewall. Years of vibration (bad shocks, ball joints tie rods) due to previous owners neglect caused premature wear to electrical taped wires.
Solution. Repair wire (neutral/blue stripe To ABS pump) and retape.
-covered all wires at the firewall with wire shield and reattach ties along firewall.
Couldn't have done it without you. I even used your brake bleeding blog to finish the job. I used a small electric medical vacuum/pump to pressurize the reservoir instead of the hand pump.
Removed all old fluid from Rez and started fresh.
Thanks a million.
I have recently acquired a 1994 xjs which the po removed the interior to "detail" the carpet. He marked 1 ziplock bag of bolts "Seats". Did not understand the basic principle of screws as he ripped the visor brackets and console top out. He was the 2nd owner who in reality, did not want to spend the$1500 to replace the bad abs accumulator and pump. I have puzzle pieced the interior back in and am currently trying to replace the pump and accumulator. In searching for the location of the abs fuses, Google displayed a photo of the relay he had sitting in a box which Google shows as the abs relay. Have installed the pump, switch and relay and will try to install the relay back in tomorrow. Big question from a stupid person.......I am trying to show this car the respect it deserves and need to know. Do I need to bleed the entire system after replacing the pump and accumulator or just bleed the low pressure sideby removing the plastic elbow fitting. If high pressure bleed, at the high pressure fitting at the pump; at the fitting on the firewall or at the fitting at the master cylinder? Any help on this matter will be greatly appreciated but may still not get you on the Christmas card list.
