XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

Another Veneer topic!

Old Apr 16, 2015 | 11:25 AM
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Default Another Veneer topic!

I've read quite a few posts on veneer removal. I need to remove the panel from the SRS Airbag part of the dash on my 1995 Celebration model. Quite a few people recommend looking at Myrtles website but there is no guide on this particular piece. I called them and they say it is very hard to remove.

Is this the case? Has anyone done it successfully?

The strip on the car I am about to buy is slightly rippled (I'm wondering if it got fired off - however, there is no accident damage at the front end)
 
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Old Apr 16, 2015 | 12:21 PM
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magicrising,

You don't want to hear this, but it's a real pain to change that veneer. Apparently, it might just be possible to do it by removing the lower fascia and trying to get to the 6 bolts behind BUT all 3 people that I know who have replaced it ending up having to move the whole of the dash fascia forward to get to the bolts! Yes, the whole dash fascia! So that means centre console out, instruments etc etc etc to get to all the dash fascia bolts.

So, by all means try and get behind it by going in behind by removing that lower fascia, but don't be surprised if it's not possible.

Good luck

Paul
 
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Old Apr 21, 2015 | 11:06 PM
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There are a couple of threads about redoing the veneer on the XJS.
One mentioned using a Heat Gun to blister the veneer off the metal backing vs
using a chemical stripper.
Then I saw an old episode of "Wheeler Dealers" (S6E9 and S6E10) on YouTube
where they redo the veneer by just chiseling the old stuff off the metal back
and using contact glue to glue the new veneer on after trimming the new to
match the console.
Then they used a vacuum bag to press the veneer on for 24hrs.
Then they used a spray-on lacquer in several coats. I believe a Polyurethane
would work also.

I saw Dark Birch veneer sheets at a local craft store "Michaels" for $4.00.
eBay has the Walnut Burl sheets from various vendors for a little bit more.

Regards,
Bob
P O R (Press On Regardless)
 
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Old Apr 22, 2015 | 12:00 PM
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I've just finished redoing the veneer in my '95. Not particularly difficult just tedious.

Re the SRS panel, it's made up of two aluminum pieces plus three sheets of veneer. The problem with removing it from the car is that the aluminum "base panel" is held to the Airbag Deployment Door by six nylock nuts under which lie six push on locking washers and it's these washers that are the problem. They can't be pulled off, they must be cut off! To do so, you have to remove the deployment door.

The veneer panel itself is:
1. Finish veneer glued to:
2. "Base" veneer glued to:
3. Thin, formed aluminum foil backing sheet (easily destroyed) glued to:
4. "Base" veneer glued to:
5. "Foundation" (for lack of a better word) aluminum panel.

The only way I've found to efficiently remove the clear finish is with a heat gun. Using a heat gun and appropriate blade this finish lifts right off the veneer. Try it - you'll see how it works.

To re-veneer the Air Bag Deployment Door I would remove the clear finish, sand the finish veneer down to the base veneer and glue my new veneer on that, taking extreme care to NOT damage or destroy the underlying aluminum foil base.

I bought an extra Air Bag deployment Door to figure all of this out assuming that if I screw it up I can still re-veneer my original Air Bag Deployment Door after I've learned how to do it.

My first attempt is good but it can be better so I will re-veneer my original Air Bag Deployment Door. To be sure, I'd like to remove the airbag entirely, replace the original Air Bag deployment Door with a glove box. At this point in time I have no idea if this is possible, but I will determine if it is.

Re the console panel; I used the vacuum bag method. My panel came out good but I think clamping the veneer to the panel as opposed to the vacuum method may work better.

I have used a French polish to finish my new veneer. The French polish is absolutely gorgeous! I just hope it's durable in the Florida summer heat and sun. The original epoxy is hard, turns yellow and flakes over time. The French polish isn't as hard and I hope it proves to be durable enough for use in my XJS interior.
 

Last edited by Roger95; Apr 22, 2015 at 12:05 PM.
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Old Apr 22, 2015 | 05:00 PM
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Thanks Roger95. Blimey, I didn't think it would be that hard. May have to reconsider whether its worth it. My panel is slightly rippled, just bought the car - I reckon it must have been fired off at soem stage but there is absolutely no sign of accident damage.
 
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