Barn find...won't start
Beautiful 1988 H&E. Parked for a few years. Injectors were stuck solid so replaced everything on the fuel side (tank, pump, lines, filter, injectors) plugs, cap, ignitor, rotor. After, car fired right up, idled perfect, revved smooth, no smoke...just ideal.
Took it out for a drive and had almost no throttle response. Limped back in, died, won't re-start.
Injector pulse is strong on the noid light. Fuel pressure is good.
Pull a plug and it sparks strong laying on the intake. When I put the spark tester inline it pulses. Oddly a timing light flashes strong on the coil wire but I don't pick up anything on any plug wire, even when I'm watching that wire make spark on a plug laid on the intake. Maybe totally unrelated.
Anyone have a similar experience?
Took it out for a drive and had almost no throttle response. Limped back in, died, won't re-start.
Injector pulse is strong on the noid light. Fuel pressure is good.
Pull a plug and it sparks strong laying on the intake. When I put the spark tester inline it pulses. Oddly a timing light flashes strong on the coil wire but I don't pick up anything on any plug wire, even when I'm watching that wire make spark on a plug laid on the intake. Maybe totally unrelated.
Anyone have a similar experience?
Last edited by wesmc2; Dec 6, 2024 at 06:03 PM.
Will it start/run with starting fluid?
If so, its fuel problem of some sort, if not, its probably ignition/timing related.
You suggest your placed 'a" gas tank.
H&E cars have two gas tanks and two fuel pumps,( its an awful design). Draining the top tank, leaves old crud gas in the bottom tank.
Doug
If so, its fuel problem of some sort, if not, its probably ignition/timing related.
You suggest your placed 'a" gas tank.
H&E cars have two gas tanks and two fuel pumps,( its an awful design). Draining the top tank, leaves old crud gas in the bottom tank.
Doug
Based on what you stated, and yes, I read it 3 times.
GOOD spark on the coil lead, and crap spark on the Sparker lead/s could be:
Lousy quality rotor, common.
The carbon brush and spring in a crappy cap has worn out.. NOT common, they usually fall out when the cap is lifted, and you do not see it.
Rotor height is too low, setting that can be quite complicated to type here, SOOOOO, if you suspect that, let me know, and I will do a PDF and attach later.
Time for that will depend on my carer requirements for my wife, so if a hurry,coz the car has a HOT date, not going to happen.
I thought I wrote one many years ago, but old age is a mongrel, I will look later tonight OZ time.
The NEW HT leads are too high a resistance, RARE.
The engine EARTH strap fiasco at the LH engine mount is doing its usual thing, NOT earthing, common.
Spark plugs are gapped too wide.
To have a good spark in the coil lead, and zip after that involves ONLY anything after the lead connects to the cenre post of the cap.
GOOD spark on the coil lead, and crap spark on the Sparker lead/s could be:
Lousy quality rotor, common.
The carbon brush and spring in a crappy cap has worn out.. NOT common, they usually fall out when the cap is lifted, and you do not see it.
Rotor height is too low, setting that can be quite complicated to type here, SOOOOO, if you suspect that, let me know, and I will do a PDF and attach later.
Time for that will depend on my carer requirements for my wife, so if a hurry,coz the car has a HOT date, not going to happen.
I thought I wrote one many years ago, but old age is a mongrel, I will look later tonight OZ time.
The NEW HT leads are too high a resistance, RARE.
The engine EARTH strap fiasco at the LH engine mount is doing its usual thing, NOT earthing, common.
Spark plugs are gapped too wide.
To have a good spark in the coil lead, and zip after that involves ONLY anything after the lead connects to the cenre post of the cap.
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