Mine is the GM version. However it hasn't had a belt on it in quite some time, so the pulley is rusted nor does it even spin. Seized up I am assuming? One of my plans anyway was to just flat out remove the whole AC system in it versus repairing it being it's next to impossible to find R12 freon.

So the front 4 were finger tight only. AC Delco plugs that haven't been made since 1988 I think is what the auto parts place told me. And in regards to the plug brand, I got E^3's..... I wasnt' aware that Jag specified NGK. Next go around I will try those though.

 

There are alternative refrigerants, such as Duracool that work well in place of R12. Don't think you have to forgo AC just because R12 isn't available any more.

The pulley should freewheel, and then the clutch will engage the compressor when called for. Sounds like your compressor may be bad. It's not too bad a job to get the AC working again if you have the tools are are handy.

 

My AC was re-charged with R134a 5 years ago and is still cold. You will need to replace the hoses and O rings, my car also still runs the A6 compressor at the moment.

One thing with the XJS if you do not have working AC your feet will overheat, the default position for the heater tap is on and this allows hot water into the heater matrix and heat up the foot well with AC off.

 

looks like most have things covered. when I first got mine, I am lucky to have a one car garage, so my daily driver sat out and the first year I removed everything except the dash from the interior and checked the wires and clean connections and the pins on the relays. before putting back together I put a small amount of dielectric grease on them. enjoyed the car the following spring to about October, back in the garage and turned my attention to components under the hood/bonnet. It may have taken me about 3years (don't be discouraged, I am on a Veterans Disability) going down to the garage and do some things for about 1.5 to 2 hours. I have pictures in my profile area of the process. But then I went thru ALL the components from bulkhead forward that could be cleaned and replace what was need. As for the coil, you can eliminate the 2 coil system to one (Something Jaguar recommends as an up date and not hard to do) coils back then couldn't recharge quick enough like today's do.

As for cost, I would have to get that info from my other computer. I know my was high, but I was not looking for a return investment but a reliable driving XJS because when time comes it will be passed down to my granddaughter. And as for a lot of parts I got from Ebay, and from the list of vendors here. Some parts, instead of buying just that one part, Like maybe a couple of dash parts, it was cheaper buying the whole dash and then I have some spare components, and when bidding on something set yourself a price unless it,s a hard to find part.

Overall, it was not a bad project to do, pick up the Haynes manual as well ans the Jaguar one, I also have the disc/download one on my computer and laptop. Take notes, lots, and lots of pictures from different angles for reference and to have an album of you journey.

 

You will expire from the heat in an XJS without A/C. I suggest getting a new (re-built) Harrison/GM A6 compressor. Replace the drier. This is a pain but necessary.
Fill new compressor with 11oz's of PAG 134 oil via the port plug on the bottom.
Install new "O" rings in large ports on rear of compressor.
Install new compressor and hook up all hoses and belt.

Take to shop or friend or some guys do it on the side who can evacuate the system for a minimum of 30 minutes. 60 is better.

Charge with 2 1/4 lbs of R134. Add a leak detector dye. Good luck.

 

The best thing you did was find this forum like I did. I got my xjs 6 months ago and have been doing repairs since spring. I only drove the car once before it's had the whole fuel tank and system ripped out, trans pan dropped, belts done, gauges and ski slope out and now the final step "The Vee". Putting the fuel rail back on tues and hope it fires up with my homemade injector harness(that I learned how to build on here). The people on here have helped me every step of the way... awesome people!! Working on a jag is different than my Porsche 944. There is more info than you need on the 944! And it's small and parts are pretty cheap. The jag is huge,intimidating and not many people work on them... That being said, once you dig into the engine, it's a pussycat and is fun to work on.. And maybe the parts aren't that expensive but there's just so much of it. 12 of everything adds up!

And after reading some of the comments on here, I hope my AC works, but I'm sure it doesn't. Haha
im fine with it not working for now, but not if it's going to bake me alive!

 

You can prevent the heater from baking you with a cable tie around the heater tap to keep it closed, I did this when I first got the car and AC did not work.

 

And all that time I thought "man, this engine sure does put out a lot of heat!"...

 

👍🏼

 

Well I am not concerned with my AC not working. Like what was posted before, I may tie the heater inlet closed. My concern is the spark plugs and wires. Front 6 are done, now to do the rear 6. Things I am noticing, the throttle and coil are both in the way. I might be able to get something down in there to loosen the plugs, and use a pair of surgeon's vein clamps to pull them out, but getting the plug wires back on, THAT is what I am not sure on.....

 

It is best to remove the throttle capstan and the pedestal to do the rear 6. getting to the pedestal rear bolts is the interesting part!
Greg

 

Not an XJS, but the HVAC in my XJ wuzza six is similar. I devised a 'work around'.


The vacum operated heater valve is on one hose. The "Off" position does not isolate the heater matrix in the cabin. It merely stops the pump induced flow. Heat transfer remains!!!


So my "mod" added a manual valve to the other hose. I term it my summer/winter valve. Closed in summer, no heat at all in the matrix.
Run the fan and get power venting. In moderate temps, albeit not AC, the air flow is quite pleasant.


Odlly, my 94 Jeep provides a similar mode. Compressor off, fans on.
Similar result.


Carl

 

The cable tie on mine was temporary I bought a 12v solenoid operated hot water valve that can be switched of if needed, because the other issue is the defrost goes full hot, really good when it's 30°C and raining, talk about baking in the cabin.

 

once off I never replaced those rear capstan bolts. They are brutal to access and, I feel, unnecessary. There's no force applied to the capstan to require all 4.

Last plug change was this past Saturday. A/C compressor is absent in my vee but the Capstan stayed in pllace. Coil sat aside, Universal joint on a 1/8 drive with a 12" extension. I also used a spark plug t-wrench with u joint. This tool made A5 & B5 possible with capstan there.

Whole set out, new plugs gapped, and reinstalled in a personal best time of 48 minutes!

 

JJ
I am not sure I agree that this is wise, a catastrophic accident could happen if it ever came loose, however unlikely. I modified the capstan stand as shown here, and it only takes 10 minutes to remove the lot. This is what I would recommend to the OP. Admittedly, my plug changes take 58 minutes!
Greg

 

guess I am lucky, I had a Jaguar tool kit, so it has the wrench for the plugs which works great for the back number 6 plugs so I only remove the top portion of the capstan.

 

Torqued down and lock-washered on only the two front bolts, I cannot imagine the capstan coming loose. But I suppose it's a reasonable warning to put out there.

I could replace my rear two bolts, as I don't have to pull that stand to do plug swaps with the tools I have available, but I don't plan on it. Brutal as they are.

I don't want to pull that capstan apart and reset the TPS and rods if they aren't part of the problem I'm fixing. I did consider keeping the base and top of the stand and having a 1" alluminum rod welded in as a new column.

 

JJ
You will not have to reset the TPS and the rods, the capstan comes off the pedestal as a unit, TPS and all. I like to idea of the 1 inch welded pedestal replacement though!
Greg