The above is very true and one of the many reasons I encourage owners not to start their engines periodically while the cars are in storage. Just let them sit.

As to whether synthetic oil reduces start up wear vs. conventional oil, again I can find no real evidence. The engines seem to outlast the rest of the car no matter what they're fed.

 

yeah you don't need any faith to believe that, it is sort of just a fact. Starting the engine is equivalent to about 1000 miles of highway driving, which is why you shouldn't be too scared of those 2014 cars that have 150k miles on them. It is why I have looked into a pre-lube system for my XJS. Unfortunately there aren't many and it requires some thought and design.

 

Source please?

I drive my S-type once every three days or so, and it's 13 years old. That's 1.3 million miles, plus the actual distance I've driven. Huh?

 

Here again, IMHO, the benefit should be weighed against expense and effort....with anticipated use and expected life span thrown into the mix. The Jag V12 is known to be long-lived and robust as-is (so long as the cooling system is kept up, as we all know).

If the goal is to get (let's say) 300k miles on the engine before overhaul such a pre-lube system might well pay off. If you'd be satisfied with 175k-200k miles, I'd say that a V12 will easily go that long with no extraordinary effort or modifications....and the expense and effort be better spent elsewhere. That's just me.

Of course there's the personal satisfaction of designing and building a pre-lube system, and the satisfaction of doing something nice for your engine. I totally get that. There's value in that, but it's probably best chalked up under the 'feel good' category

Cheers
DD

 

Yeah, the 1000-mile thing seems a bit iffy.

On a typical work week day I start my engine 4 or 5 five times. I'm hard pressed to believe that this adds 4000-5000 miles of engine wear. That would be 20k miles of wear in one week, 80k miles in one month. Assuming 250k engine life, I'd be overhauling my engine every three months.


Cheers
DD

 

I found the following quoted text to sum up my view quite well:

"For the average car owner, driving conditions are mild enough for conventional mineral oils to work satisfactorily, provided they are changed relatively frequently (3,000-5,000 miles).

For those users with high performance engines, severe climates, hard driving, or utilizing long drain intervals, synthetics can offer good value and may even be required.

And then there are those who so love their cars that nothing but the very best will do for their baby."

 

That's the standard worn out dogma that's been in repeated (and taken advantage of by quikky-lube places) for decades. It does not match reality.

The 3.0 and 4.2L engines in the S-type use standard oil, have a 10K mile or annual oil change interval and are now seen consistently exceeding 250,000 mile without engine issues.

SWMBO's former Honda Civic with a 1.6L engine had a similar change interval. Lubrication related engine trouble on these cars is unheard of.

3K intervals might have made sense on '50s vintage engines considering the fuel contamination issues of the day, but that was a long time ago.

My cars get babied with nothing but the best- but much like using fuel with a higher than required octane rating, the extra money spent might make us feel good but the car couldn't care less.

 

Which brings us right back to 'feel good' decisions.

I am very familiar with them.....from direct personal experience




Cheers
DD

 

I fabricated one using compressed air but only for first start use on rebuilds. Connects to oil switch position. Pump last couple of litres oil in through here just prior to firing up.

 

That's quite clever.

 

.


a very common tank and adjustable air valve unit< OLD OLD idea , 1930s, my dad had one in the garage for years, used it when changing oil or any internal engie work!

 

and as i remember he used a bycycle hand pump for air.

 

Doesn't my XJ40 have that function for cold starts? Pretty sure it does!

Larry

 

Doug:


Ouch, you hit a tender spot!!! I became a reluctant master at swapping out starters on my lump !!! Not to mention a couple of flat bed rides home. Short trips. Quit each time within blocks of home.


Battery: Now have a bias against side post units. The tin insert on the
- post just came loose. Heat from bum starter load just melted the lead in which it was encased. A hefty top post would've survived just fine, I think.


Fixed now, but some distrust of it's no name side post battery!!!


Engines and oils.


In the very early 50's I worked at a few full service stations. The standards were wash lube and oil change at 1K!!! A car that got to
100,00 miles had an engine swap along the way, but were to be avoided??? Well, as usual, I got one anyway. 49 Black Mercury Coupe, ala James Dean. 100k, but enjoyed a rebuilt flat head.
Only issues were a bum generator and a busted rear axle housing.
Fixed almost easily.


At the Texaco that I worked at we had two grades. Texaco. Decent.
and the cheaper. Havoline, same base, but a better additive package.
Came in 20, 30 and 40 weight. No multiple viscosities. Mineral of course.


The competition offered similar choices. Claiming superiority, of courser.,


Engine life. At least decent oil. Improved filtration. Much better machined tolerances. Far better crankcase ventilation. Far better fuel
mixture management. Little cold cranking, engine fires quickly. A lot more driving at speed rather than stop and start. Even oil pumps are much better. Interlocking lobes vs vanes. Fifties saw that improvement.


My Jeep under decent care, is tight, strong and shiny at 200K+ and counting. A somewhat modernized version of the AMC Rambler 6 banger.


And, then way back, how long did a splash lubed Babbitt bearing T engine last? 20K????


Oh, oils and filters on the bench for both my cars. 20-50 mineral in each case.


Carl.

 

Well, back to notifying those that matter of my new email address.


Carl

 

I'd like to hear more if anyone has details.

 

Wait, we've yet to have the discussion about whether your cars leak oil more after the switch to synthetic. Who wants to kick that one off?

Jess

 

In the interest of debate:

I will say it is generally down to worn seals, gasket and to a lesser extent oil viscosity.

I.e no difference synthetic oil or mineral oil

 

I see a business opportunity.

There's the myth that synthetics leak more than regular oils.

There's the myth that nitrogen in the tires leaks out more slowly than air.

Everybody likes the word 'nitro' because it suggests power and speed like a nitro burning dragster.

How about doubling down on the two myths and making nitro-enriched synthetic oils that solve the leakage problem while unleashing the true power potential of the engine?

We'll be rich! I can market then alongside my line of petrified voodoo chicken bones that ensure engine start in any weather conditions.

 

I knew that Voodoo was at play here somewhere, and it would most certainly come from Canada.

Good on ya Mikey.

As Penny says on Big Bang, "dont mess with Voodoo, that suff is real".