I'm sure they would, but I don't really want to drive all the way to Tokyo for that. Mind you, my wife would be happy--she loves driving along the Tokyo expressway system for reasons that pass understanding.
But I think the h-d can be replaced by my normal guys at G-Fox. I gather it's not technically demanding, but it's still not something I want to tackle outside in a shared parking lot....

 

See if you can find images of the XJ6 fuel rail, my guess is that you likely have a similar single barb deal bridging the fuel rails on your car. I would just replace those hoses with new FI rated hose and put proper clamps on it.

If it makes you feel better, think about newer systems with an oring that simply clamp in place. Those feel a lot sketchier to me and its what every new car runs, a lot less positive than a hose over a fitting with an actual clamp you can feel the tension on.

 

The issue, I suppose, is not whether factory hoses needed clamps, but whether aftermarket ones do.
The issue is whether the barb will penetrate the hose (nothing to do with which hose) when clamped, when the factory setup was not clamped.
At any rate, I'm going to keep a close eye on them, that's for sure. I keep trying to tell myself that Jaguar Engineer Factory are specialists, experts, and know what they're doing, but sometimes (increasingly) I wonder if I'm not just trying to reassure myself that spending all that money was worth it
I am sure that it was worth it from a technical point of view. But that is not the test. Your car has had all sorts of important things fixed, if you enjoy the car, spending the money is worth it, if not, not!
I also have some more urgent areas to tackle. I suspect my aircon heater core is leaking just a bit, as the fogging on the inside of the window is getting worse, and I've been able to smell a sort of sickly sweet smell (my wife called it "maple syrup") that is apparently a symptom of leaking;
That is the smell of leaking antifreeze. You have a leak somewhere, either hoses of the actual heater matrix.
and in addition to that the car clunks/rattles in low speed turns or bumps, so I suspect there might be something loose around the diff.
Sounds like mine did, and in my case it turned out to be the lower inner fulcrums (the "dog bones" that are bolted to the bottom sides of the diff. But could just as easily be some other loose bit.

 

Well, yes, but if the aftermarket hoses are going to slip off without clamps, it's a bit of a case of the devil or the deep blue sea. As I understand it, there are three options:
1. Hose stays on fine without clamps. Yay!
2. Hose is a wee bit too loose and needs clamps. Hm. Yay?
3. Hose gets damaged by clamps and barbs pressing against each other. Not so yay.
And 2 and 3 can combine, of course. Too loose, but clamps = rips. Double not yay.

True, the list of things that got fixed was extensive. But the niggles that have arisen since make me wonder about the quality of those fixes. I mean, why would the guy have used clamps on the fuel hose? I should perhaps send him an email and ask, and hope he replies.
Oh well. I told myself that after getting that checkup that I was just going to drive the car, keep it maintained, fix what needed fixing as it arose (stuff that preventive maintenance didn't catch, like the fuel pump), and try not to worry.

Sure seems like a leak. I'll have to take the cheek panels off the hump and see if I can see (or smell) anything. I've been doing way too much reading up on past posts of the Delanair MKIII when I really should be working. Another issue is that, as of y'day at least, no air comes out the passenger-side vent. I initially assumed one of the two blower motors was bad, but it seems that it's not a case of one motor blows out one side. Stuck flap, perhaps. Might need to take the glovebox out and see what I can see. After more research on what to look for.

Thanks for that tip. At any rate, it seems to be something that needs the car lifted. When the new harm-dam arrives (XKs Unlimited still haven't got back to me with warranty information; if none arrives I'll assume no warranty and get JagBits' expensive lifetime warranted one, I think, though between postage for the core and to remove and then post a failed one, I could probably get new aftermarket...), I'll get them to poke around for rattles as well. I assume it's not the coin I lost down the engine when doing the coin test.... (It sounds more rear than front, definitely.)

 

Experiences vary.

I've always use 5/16" ID fuel hose (7.93mm) from the local parts store on V12s and had no problems. The only exception is when I tried the Goodyear hose with the blue inside liner. Big mistake; had to re-do all the hoses on a pal's V12 !

If the nipples are nicked or otherwise damaged the difference between 7.90mm and 7.93mm might...well...make a difference!



Generally, yes. Sometime oddities come up that make us wonder, though


Cheers
DD

 

I don't think anyone is saying it's a big deal. But, the fuel rails in question are the multi-barb type with the hose being pressed-on with an end cap. That's the intention. And, clamping a hose over a barbed fitting can damage the hose. I'm not saying it *will* damage the hose. But that it can. Therefore, 'not good practice'.

Not to go too far off into the weeds but there are barbed nipples and then there are barbed nipples. Some multi-barb nipples have very sharp and/or deep barbs; others not so much.

On hose nipples deigned for clamping the single barb typically isn't much of a 'barb' at all. Not very sharp; often somewhat rounded. The idea is that the clamp goes behind the barb on the smooth portion of the nipple. I've attached a couple of pics.

Nothing is carved in granite. I've seen clamps on barbed nipples many times; no problem. Other times, yes, the hose was cut by clamping....but might well have been OK if not over-tightened.

Cheers
DD

 

Thanks, Doug.
I would be surprised if there were actually two diameters sold, one at 7.90 and one at 7.93. In fact, doing some more hunting around Japanese online sites, it seems 5/16" hose is generally marketed as "8 mm" hose.

At any rate, I'll keep an eye on things with a view to replacing them sooner rather than later. Some of that spiffy aluminium mesh hose would look nice, I admit....

 

I've rarely seen the sharp multi serrated barb used in high pressure applications or fuel line and are usually used in plumbing to be honest. But the smooth single lip/barb nipples almost always have a clamp of some kind in pressure applications (my XJR6 has OEM worm gear clamps on similar lipped barbs for coolant lines), and in high pressure fuel applications use specific fuel pressure line clamps not worm gear clamps.

So if your fuel fittings are smooth barbs with the single rounded lip, it is normal to use clamps, especially fuel line clamps.

.

 

I didn't mean big deal in the sense that its do or die, just in the sense that I hear this answer every single time the subject comes up. It seems extremely common and no one ever seems to question the reason why, especially when a car made in the same year by the same company with the same barbed injectors uses clamps.

 

The question that arises then is, of course, if they are smooth barbs with the single rounded lip, why didn't Jaguar use clamps in the first place? I'm tempted to remove one hose just to confirm what the situation under there is....

 

"smooth barbs" is contradictory!



As Jaguar didn't use clamps on the hoses it's an almost sure bet you'll find barbed nipples, as the barbs are what hold the hose onto the nipple.

If they were smooth nipples with the rounded lip then clamps would've been require to hold the hose.

Cheers
DD

 

It certainly defies the norm....not entirely unusual with Jaguars

Cheers
DD

 

Hi Someday

Working on the 'theory' that your Jaguar experts garage know what they are doing, I might be inclined to leave those hoses alone

Just in case they don't go back on as tight as they did the first time

'If it ain't broke don't fix it' and all that

 

At the moment, considering the leaking cabin is back (albeit only a very minor leak), I wouldn't trust JEF to be able to change a tyre. I also think that if the car does explode in a ball of fire, I'll just stand and watch her burn, then buy a Toyota. Or take the bus.

 

Not sure that is a theory l would subscribe to OB. Plenty of "jaguar experts garages" out there have no clue.
Only suggestion l can make is that anybody that has not ever handled one of those jaguar multi barb fittings do so. If after that they are happy to tighten a clamp on hose fitted to them they are a braver man than me.

 

SD, are your falling out of love?
The reality of a 25 year old supercar is that it will require putting right. All the things you have experienced, or things like them, will happen inevitably. The car will never be maintenance free, though the frequency of problems will diminish. As, sadly, loads of us know, if you cannot do the work yourself, the costs are pretty steep.
Honestly though, once you have bought the correct hose and the end pieces, it will take any local garage, or take you, 10 minutes with a kitchen knife to remove the bits you are worrying about and push on the new hoses.

 

I did know and expect that the car would require maintenance. Much more than a normal car. Not having the space to do much work myself, nor the time to do as much as I would like, I knew I'd have to pay lots to keep her shipshape. That's why I left off buying one until I could afford it. And I had hoped that she'd go at least a few months after her big physical without any more issues....
What annoys me, though, is when I do pay the experts good money to do a good job, and they don't.

But yes, the operation in this case does appear pretty simple. Once I determine what hose to use, and where I can find those little end pieces (which I believe are purely decorative anyway), I'll definitely try and tackle this one myself.
And take a photo of the nipples for reference purposes....

 

Good for you on the hoses. here is the stuff, a couple of feet should do it:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gates-Barri...-/232401243450


An earlier post suggested a ferrule supplier.
Once the bits and the knife in stock, measure the hose length and cut it, a touch long rather than short, loosen the clamps, cut the old hose in the middle with some rag under it, car cold. Then wiggle the cut piece off the barb on each side of rail. Shove on the ferrules and push on the hose.
As Bing said to Tracy at the end of High Society, the first step is the hardest!

 

Thanks for the link. I'll look for something similar here--no way am I paying four times the cost for shipping....
Just to be quite clear, I definitely do need to depressurise the fuel system first, right? Or is the fuel in the pipes at the top of the engine when cold (a) not much in volume, and (b) not under much pressure? Probably best to depressurise anyway. Seems pretty simple.

But yes, I do intend to do this myself. I'm a little sick of me feeling like I need treat the car as some sort of ultra-sensitive high-strung exotic that will shatter as soon I dare to attempt something myself. With the weather getting warmer, and free towing on my car insurance, there's nothing to hold me back....

 

A tad late, but "stuff happens" as ya get old. AKA, bloody work.

After an overnight sit, there will very little if any, pressure in the rail, and the associated hoses. There WILL BE fuel, so spillage is going to happen, so plenty of rags, OPEN AIR, and just take your time.

My findings on the HE after tooooo many years, and waaaay tooooo many cars, is the precious "rocket scientist" that has done the hoses before you. The sharp factory barbs get "nicked" with the tool used to remove the old hose, usually a sharp bladed knife, and that causes a no sealing of any hose fitted, UNLESS clamps are used to compensate.

Mine was in that category, random clamps on rail and injector ends of the hoses. I found nicks, some small, some like the Grand Canyon, on these suspects, so I simply used some Wet and Dry paper, fine emery to some languages, and removed the "sharp" of all the barbs, thus making them smooth, NOT like the single barb fitting, just taking the sharp edge off them all. Then EFI hoses, EFI clamps, NO ferrules, and clamps tightened JUST FIRM, and that was it. The clamps were snugged a further 1/2 turn after an engine run up to temp and allowed to cool. NO leaks, never ever, and 5 years later, when hose renewal was required, it took minutes, NO special cutters etc needed at all.

The PreHE had the single "barb" fitting an all the hoses, so naturally, clamps all round.

Fixing someone else's stuff up is always frustrating, and can be costly, but a V12 is a V12, and Toyota's are breakfast fodder.

You will be fine, just keep YOUR fluids uo, JD via a straw is a good start.