Convertible top hydraulics fix - Page 3 - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

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XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

Convertible top hydraulics fix

 
  #41  
Old 02-04-2016, 03:24 PM
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For power top fluid I did use Royco 756 ordered from Amazon sometime ago. Some day I'm going to stop in a local small airport and see if they have the 5606H spec fluid in the quart size. Shipping was nearly as much as the oil from Amazon.
 
  #42  
Old 02-13-2016, 12:07 AM
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This might be useful to XJS owners, as well as owners of other makes of Cars.

The XJS Oil Guide is on Page: 100 of this PDF and include Hydraulic Soft Top Oil recommendations.

Pentosin - Hydraulic Fluid
 
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  #43  
Old 04-05-2016, 06:50 AM
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which way did you install the seal? Open part towards the reservoir or towards the rotor?

also, did you put in an o-ring? when i opened mine the seal was in a thousand pieces and there was an o-ring in it as well.

thanks, your piece was a great help.
 
  #44  
Old 04-05-2016, 07:04 AM
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Hi Brad mmm. i cannot even remember it having directionality. nor can i remember an o-ring (or its absence). you can never photograph enough when doing this stuff but unfortunately i learned that too late... intuition would tell me that it must be easier to push in with the open side facing outwards but it is a jaguar! sorry i can'be of more help. good luck! graham
 
  #45  
Old 04-06-2016, 06:33 AM
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There is a post on here somewhere with some really good pictures. I remember taking it further apart than I needed, and there being two tiny ***** that the thread mentions not losing. I'm fairly sure that the side of the seal that has the grove in it goes toward the pressure as that is what makes it seal.
 
  #46  
Old 06-10-2017, 11:37 AM
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HI Everyone - i just fixed my 96 xjs top - the pump had run dry and I refilled with fluid and all is well - there likely is a small leak in the system but it takes a few years to run out so I'm not worrying. One thing that is missing from this thread - the fluid/oil is a light machine oil (similar to miracle oil) I bought on ebay - part name "5606 Oil HYDRAULIC FLUID MIL-PRF-5606H 1 QT MIL-H-5606 MIL-PRF-5606 with certs" link is 5606 Oil HYDRAULIC FLUID MIL-PRF-5606H 1 QT MIL-H-5606 MIL-PRF-5606 with certs | eBay and the brand name is ROYCO 756 - hope that helps.
 
  #47  
Old 06-11-2017, 01:35 AM
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The Jaguar/TRW HSMO (Hydraulic System Mineral Oil) will work too, or Pentosin CHF11s. You're looking for a hydraulic fluid with an ISO viscosity in the 15-18 range. On the spec sheets that's the same as the kinematic viscosity at 40C.

ATF is too thick, it's usually in the 33-35 range.
 
  #48  
Old 10-12-2017, 07:23 AM
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Hello All...

I'm hoping someone will come back to this thread and help me out... I also had a leak, opened the pump and found the bad seal, replaced it. I took 3 or 4 photos of the apparatus before taking it all apart BUT still, am having a hard time figuring out the correct way to reinstall the hoses from the left and right hydraulics... Yup,,, feeling a little dope-y... My pictures look like a tangle of hoses and I cant figure which is which, lol.

I have the 4 inlet/outlets. Upper and lower - on opposite sides of the pump framing. I cant figure out which line goes where. Any help would be much appreciated...

p.s. I looked for photos and only found that one of the completely dissembled pump. Are there others?
 
  #49  
Old 10-12-2017, 07:47 AM
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  #50  
Old 10-12-2017, 07:51 AM
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HellO Gus, Thank you...!

Amazing turn around!

I'm sorry. I should have been clearer... I'm working on my 1990 XJS Convertible.
 
  #51  
Old 10-12-2017, 07:57 AM
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Then you need to have your post moved to the XJS area for a better response. Sorry I that you are in the right area! My bad!!
 

Last edited by Gus; 10-12-2017 at 08:00 AM.
  #52  
Old 10-12-2017, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Gus View Post
Then you need to have your post moved to the XJS area for a better response. Sorry I that you are in the right area! My bad!!
No worries!!! Thanks for the attention!
 
  #53  
Old 05-14-2018, 07:09 PM
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Default More Info On Replacing That Leaking Top Pump Seal

Hi all, I plowed through this forum while troubleshooting my '94 XJS 2+2's top pump leak, and thought I'd offer a little more insight. Like others', my car's seal between the fluid reservoir/pump and the motor had degraded, sending hydraulic fluid through the motor and out the end hole where the two electrical wires exit. Hydraulic experts call this seal a "Loaded U-Seal" or "Loaded U-Cup". "Loaded" refers to the fact that it has a pop-in O-ring that offers additional sealing properties. It's also called a PolyPak, which is a certain manufacturer's model name. Same thing. I wanted to purchase this seal locally but even here in the land of show-biz special effects and loads of small airports, none of the five hydraulics specialty companies I visited could help me (a few offered to order it, with a rather long waiting period). Three hours later I gave up and hit the internet, and discovered the EXACT part at The O-Ring Store in Washington State. I've attached a picture of the part and its packaging; I bought two just 'cause they were so cheap that I felt bad knowing they weren't going to be making any profit off me. :-)
On mine, the dimensions were exactly 3/8" (ID), 5/8" (OD) and 1/8" (High). I did NOT have to unhook any hoses and was able to do the entire job with the pump still in the trunk! It took a bit of contortionizing, but at least on my car, there was just enough slack in the hoses to pull up one end of the pump assembly and remove the two bolts holding the motor to the pump. That saved a load of time and hassle, although reassembly was a bit trickier since I had to get the seal, spacer, and snap-ring (don't lose it!) back in place without much wiggle room. My old seal was pretty much toast but it appears that the slightly larger diameter end of the new seal faces the pump, which makes sense since that allows the best seal. Put a little fluid on the seal during the install to keep both the pump housing and the motor shaft from getting stuck seal and tearing it.
Once I got mine back together I topped up the fluid, tried the top, and nothing happened. Apparently the new seal was just tight enough--and my motor's alignment to the pump was just off enough that the motor wouldn't spin. I loosened the two long bolts a few turns and the motor ran fine, then re-tightened those bolts a little at a time to make sure the motor was properly seated and wasn't binding. Once everything was again tight I ran the top up and down a few times to bleed the air out, topped off the fluid, and called it a day.
All this occurred last weekend so I have nothing to report long term. But I really should be in the clear from here on out. Hope this helps! 1994 XJS Top Pump Seal
 
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  #54  
Old 05-14-2018, 07:30 PM
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Ordering two ah them now...! Thanks so much. I ended up having to do mine too,,, a few days back! Wasnt so bad at all.
 
  #55  
Old 03-12-2019, 08:44 PM
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I know this is an old thread, and I am grateful for the product info on the o-ring store. I noticed that you also show an o-ring in addition to the u-seal you ordered. Will I need to prepare one of those as well?
 
  #56  
Old 03-12-2019, 11:17 PM
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Default U-Seals Come With New O-Rings

Originally Posted by Vee View Post
I know this is an old thread, and I am grateful for the product info on the o-ring store. I noticed that you also show an o-ring in addition to the u-seal you ordered. Will I need to prepare one of those as well?
Nope, the new U-Seal should come with the O-Ring. They're a matched set, as one pops inside the other to achieve a tighter seal. No need to order the O-Ring separately.
 
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  #57  
Old 03-13-2019, 05:42 AM
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A few threads back, a several posters mentioned something about the rear quarters being slow due to thick hyd fluid. What has the conv top fluid have to do with the speed of the rear windows when the windows are electric motors? Are they thinking the windows run on the same fund as the conv top? I was trying to follow the thread and no one countered this so I'm scratching my head over the windows. My 95 has electric rear quarters. Are the early ones hydraulically operated? I didn't catch the year of the car belonging to the original poster.
 
  #58  
Old 03-13-2019, 08:39 PM
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The rear quarter windows are always electric, not hydraulicly driven.
 
 
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