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Good afternoon Lachy,
All good I'll get the parts list Steve Snape at SNG Barrat sent me through for a rear cage rebuild, and we can compare prices. I was just going to go through SNG but some of the parts are seriously heavy and will cost a small fortune to freight from the UK.
There is a performance shop here in Newcastle (Carrington) which do some serious Hot Rods, and a mate at the Carrington shipyard is going to introduce me and see if we can't establish a way forward with the V12s. The series 2 engine I have is the pre HE but I believe I can fit the HE fuel injection onto the Series 2 engine if I substitute some top end manifolds etc to allow the HE vacuum system to fit. Really the only difference would appear to be the heads, and the position of the spark plugs, plus some difference in the old and new fuel injection/engine management air take off's. All I really need is some head work, I can do the disassembly, clean and reassembly myself. Once I have "easter egged' the engines I'll do up the HE, which despite all the work I have done/had done still leaks.
I'll get on the wood website and see what they can do, although you seem pretty pleased with them, so good recommendation.
Great idea this thread of yours!
Cheers Chris
Chris
Good one. Sounds like you got a bit on your plate with a couple of projects. Re swap over to FI I don't know the ins and outs of the Jag FI components retrofitting to carb models, I guess it comes down to price vs who you can find with expertise with fitment, UCU management, wiring etc. My engine guy would know everything about it but him being old school probably wouldn't recommend it, unless you got cash to burn. Glad I can help with woodwork and be happy if I can help with you suspension components order and anything else I've been through.
Good afternoon Lachy,
As discussed please find enclosed the list of parts from SNG Barrat UK (prices in Pounds Sterling). I would appreciate your expert reviewing the list against what he did on your car; and what options are available locally at Supercheap or Autobarn etc.
Good afternoon Lachy,
As discussed please find enclosed the list of parts from SNG Barrat UK (prices in Pounds Sterling). I would appreciate your expert reviewing the list against what he did on your car; and what options are available locally at Supercheap or Autobarn etc.
Leave it with me. I'll see what I can come up with.
Great work!, Result is looking awesome. Working on restoring a '86 Cabrio myself, but not as thorough as this one. I wondered about the very nice looking reverse light plate. Did you get the lettering re-chromed?
Great work!, Result is looking awesome. Working on restoring a '86 Cabrio myself, but not as thorough as this one. I wondered about the very nice looking reverse light plate. Did you get the lettering re-chromed?
I got a few of these off of I guy I found here in Australia by chance when buying something else of of him. I'm guessing they were new OAM, as I don't think the original ones are full chrome brightness. Anyways, I saw them and thought I have to have them. I have a couple left as I gave one to a mate but sorry I can't depart with one. I have never seen them for sale.
Hey XJS crew. Keeping things rolling along so thought I'd share todays little project. Got new external window door waste seals mostly fitted today. If you have any questions on fitment I can explain how I put them in but one tip, It involves a lot of soapy water.
Greg. First of all remove the door card and lower window to lowest position. Remove rubber window bump stop on the inside of the door frame. It was two bolts you can undo from underneath the door. Then lower the window a little more, this clears the glass so you can access the strip. Remove old strip. If it is very old it is easy to tear so you can butcher it out.
Installation. Someone told me to remove the chrome and slide the strip in with soapy water then cut to length and put chrome back on. BUT BUT, BUT.....The chrome front end that runs under the rear view mirror is screwed and sealed to the car. I could not get access to the screws from the inside and didn't want to mess all that up and re-seal as it is in good nick and looks nice. Also my aesthetic sealing skills are not that good. So I managed to get the seal on without taking the chrome off. I applied soapy water. I use clothes washing liquid as it's slipperier than dishwashing liquid etc. Spray that on the door and seal. See pic 5 above of the seal profile, that's the way it goes in with the large hooky tabby thing down. So on about a 30 degree angle insert it and push into the chrome, then bring it up and massage the small top lip into the chrome. I also used a small bladed screwdriver the help the top lip to lock in. Keep moving along with soapy water till you're done. It takes a bit of time but it should last 30 years right...
I hope that helps. BTW I am extremely worried about denting and creasing my chrome as it's in great condition, so the less I muck around with it the better as far as I'm concerned..
Outer waste seals done. They look a little wavy but should settle when the window is up and get a bit of heat and weather. Next project install of RHS window motor. The old one was extremely slow and was struggling. Bit like me sometimes......
G'day Lachy,
Apologies for falling off the thread, I have been on Navy reserve work, and unable to progress my car for about six months, just doing a bit now and again. Anyway, still on reserve but getting back onto the car. I have nearly completed the door cards, and used the external weather seals on the inside of the widow as well, they seem to work fine, bit of a bugger getting them in the groove, but mission accomplished. The cheater panels were toast, and I got them second hand from the US through "Rust Free Mike" another enthusiast on the website.
The power steering ram tower seal blew out just before Christmas, so I had that out, and had a seal kit put through it: I found the wavy spring washer, and the top cover missing, so I suspect the heat from the exhaust had got through to the top seal and turned it to bakelite! Anyway, all back in, and alighned as well as I can using straight edges and Mk1 eyeball test equipment. I watched a video on You Tube of the method of tapping the ball joint to get it apart! Mine took significant effort using the ball joint splitter in the kit I bought, and came apart with quite a crack.
The other leak was the hydraulic motor for the convertible hood, I found a really good procedure on line including the source manufacturer for the seal on the hydraulic pump shaft, happy to share with anyone who needs it. The best way to get started is to remove the complete rear parcel compartment so you can get at the pump assembly (and clean it out of oil, and crud from the foam insulation, which deteriorated due to oil). Again I found a many missing screws, washers and grommets which I replaced, installed as I went. Clearly someone had been in there before me.
I have decided to go with a buff for the paintwork, and see what it turns out like before I look at a respray. There is plenty of paint on the car, I believe it was resprayed around 2005 or so, by a Doctor in Narrogin WA. Anyway, keep in touch. Cheers Chris.
Chris. Great to see you're back into it. I haven't posted for a while also but my project is moving on. Got her back from paint a couple of weeks ago and getting things back on and starting to look good. Got pin striping happening soon so I'm looking forward to that. A few pics below. Also what weather stripping did you use for the inside that goes on the door card. I'd be interested where you got them. Cheers
Gorgeous work! I'm on just about the same program with my restoration; albeit quite a bit further behind! Project creep is no joke.
May I ask how you went about getting the wiring looms out of the engine bay for paint? Like you I'm planning on painting the engine bay while the engine is out, and the rest of the car when it's back together.
Also your custom intake horns are fantastic. They look 3D printed, have you shared the file anywhere?
G'day Lachy, everyone,
I used the same weather strip as used on the outside of the glass, on the inside. The original inner seals are unobtainable. However, try putting the outer ones into the top of your door card, they work a treat after a bit of messing about, although less than getting the outer ones in: I had to drill out the self tappers hilding the chrome strip inj place as they were all rusted (and this is Australia!) before I could get the strip into the channel. My cheater panel was absolutely toast as well, completely rusted out. I have never seen such corrosion on this area of the car including the UK and the US, so unsure if I have some stray currents causing electrolysis at strange points of the chassis.
However shop around there are plenty of people selling them: SNG, JagDaim, Cat Spares etc.
Once I have the door cards back in I'll send some pictures.
Cheers, Chris
Gorgeous work! I'm on just about the same program with my restoration; albeit quite a bit further behind! Project creep is no joke.
May I ask how you went about getting the wiring looms out of the engine bay for paint? Like you I'm planning on painting the engine bay while the engine is out, and the rest of the car when it's back together.
Also your custom intake horns are fantastic. They look 3D printed, have you shared the file anywhere?
Hi. Well the wiring looms geez yeah. Just have to remove everything you can and tuck end connectors away. There is a lot of wiring. My engine builder was all over getting it back right.
Re the intake mod. Yes I got them 3D printed along with some fuse covers. I don't have the file but I guess I could get it but as I cut down the intake length and they are tapered you have to measure the diameter before you can give the 3D print guys the correct internal dimensions so they fit snug and can silicon in. I cut mine back as they are to long and get in the way of everything.
G'day Lachy, everyone,
I used the same weather strip as used on the outside of the glass, on the inside. The original inner seals are unobtainable. However, try putting the outer ones into the top of your door card, they work a treat after a bit of messing about, although less than getting the outer ones in: I had to drill out the self tappers hilding the chrome strip inj place as they were all rusted (and this is Australia!) before I could get the strip into the channel. My cheater panel was absolutely toast as well, completely rusted out. I have never seen such corrosion on this area of the car including the UK and the US, so unsure if I have some stray currents causing electrolysis at strange points of the chassis.
However shop around there are plenty of people selling them: SNG, JagDaim, Cat Spares etc.
Once I have the door cards back in I'll send some pictures.
Cheers, Chris
Chris. Yeah okay I'll get some more of the outer ones. Cheers for that. I think I got mine from JagDaim originally, or Spiteri. Good luck with the bloody rust. My car was from Western Australia and is rust free bar a couple of door spots from the internal fitments and behind the mud flaps. I got a bit lucky finding it in that condition for the price, but that boat has sailed and gone forever....
01-07-2022, 02:39 AM
