My first thought is that the RH front caliper is seized and not working. What parts, specifically, have already been replaced?

A problem with the suspension could also cause this sort of pull while braking. Have the control arm bushings, ball joint, ties rods, etc been checked?

DD

 

I have the same problem. Did anybody find the cause?

 

Start by buying yourself a brake pressure gauge. Then measure the pressure left to right in the front. If it is the same then you can rule out a hydraulic system problem.

some things that can contribute to this.

finish on brake rotors- swap side to side to eliminate
fluid contaminated pads-swap side to side to be certain
worn suspension parts- check front suspension, subframe bushes and rear suspension
alignment- need to be checked on a alignment rack
hydraulic pressure problem-brake pressure gauge can be used

Start with a visual inspection. The pressure test. After you do the pressure test let us know what the results are.

 

Hi
Just a thought.
Does the car have a dual circuit braking system? These (I think) were designed so that in the event of a single component failure the system should enable you to brake in a straight line. This was because the system was set so that the front left and rear right brakes worked on one circuit and the front right and rear left worked on the other so that if either circuit failed then the other would keep you on the straight and narrow.
There could be a fault there.
When the car is pulling you into the opposing traffic does it appear to be steering from the front or the back? I know it sounds like a dumb question but you could have shot radius arm bushes on the rear suspension which will make the car feel odd under braking, cornering and accelaration. The ones on my 1986 XJSC are shot and sometimes it is like trying to drive on water when goosing it out of a corner.
So I only goose it in straight lines!
Hope this helps a little bit.
Steve

 

All cars in the US 1967 on are required to have dual braking circuits. The configuration is typically front to rear on rear wheel drive vehicles and diagonal on front wheel drive vehicles. Volvo had a unique setup which gave a dual circuit to each wheel.

The idea is not to be able to brake in a straight line but to be able to have some braking. With a single circuit master cylinder if you had any failure in the hydraulic circuit you lost ALL pressure. With dual circuits the idea is you will have one circuit that will provide some braking pressure.

The main reason front wheel drives are diagonal is because 80% of the braking is done with the front wheels. If you lose this circuit you will really have next to nothing left for stopping. Rear wheel drive vehicles have a more even braking at each wheel. Something like 60/40. Less plumbing is involved with front to rear split which equals less money.

 

Being a 1990 does it have ABS?

If so does the ABS activate? The ABS is 3 channel 2 front and 1 rear so you may have a problem with a front sensor.

 

More likely it is p problem with the ABS valve body, something is plugged up, and only sending pressure to one front caliper...

Dave

 

Exactly why I said to measure the pressure left and right.