There's an old fire extinguisher that shows half charged that came with the car, and I'm thinking it would be good insurance to get another.

Having never used one, what do i need to look for in terms of size, residue, nozzle/hose, expiration lifetime, fixture, rating, etc. ? I reckon some of you have done the research, perhaps even had rhe misfortune to have to use it

A link to Amazon.com would be great. Thanks

 

As far down here goes, I believe any "Dry Powder" style is deemed OK for Auto use. Mostly we purchase from the Auto stores that populate our landscape, and the stuff they sell is car related.

I have never had one, nor the need to use one.

I also have an inside door relaese mechanism that actually WORKS, so if it happens, I am GONE, burn ya mongrel, I am done with you. Each to their own here.

 

1 kg gross weight dry powder type extinguisher is ample (contains 1 kg of AB powder).

Mount it where the driver can reach it from the drivers seat or on the drivers side of the car at least.

Half discharged will fail, I tried to use one to show my kids how to use it(a year after it was first used) it failed. taught them with a new one.

About $20 - $30 from auto store or hardware.

I have had to use one 3 times (only once on my car).

 

You mean you own an XJS and don't have a Fire Extinguisher!!!!!!

It would be best if you bought more than one.

Quite a big one to go in the Boot/Trunk and another one to keep inside the Car. Dry Powder or Co2.

Just don't forget to Switch OFF the Engine, in the event that you have to use it, or the Powder will get sucked into the Engine which would be extremely Bad Expensive news.

Amazon.co.uk: dry powder fire extinguisher

 

Here's what a fire department website says:

Dry powder fire extinguishers are the best choice for a vehicle or boat. The fire repellent inside is rated for use on any A, B and C or E class of fire (depending on your national fire classifications). This means that a dry powder car fire extinguisher will fight fuel and electrical related fires, as well as common organic combustibles such as upholstery, paper, cloth and wood products that are integral to your vehicle.


General Properties of a Quality Car Fire Extinguisher
Shopping for a fire extinguisher to store in your vehicle for safety purposes can be overwhelming. Here are some essential features to look for:

• Light weight - under 2 lb is ideal
• Compact shape – an elongated, cylinder shape is practical
• Durable body – preferably aluminum as that material is corrosion-free and light
• Ready filled – available for immediate use
• Easily serviced – can be filled and serviced by a regular fire services company
• Storage clip or mount included – an under-seat or trunk mount is convenient, and some have useful clips that hook unto other places in the vehicle
• Controlled discharge – should have a durable and controlled trigger
• Good warranty – to ensure you are protected from faulty manufacturing
• Certified to Local Fire Standards - always buy a fire extinguisher that has been labeled with local certification.

I keep a small one, 1/2kg (1lb) behind the passenger seat and a 1Kg (2.2lbs) in the trunk. I've only needed a fire extinguisher twice in my life. Once was two years ago, I came upon a pick up truck that had gone off the road and was upside down in the ditch. The driver was trapped and there was a small fire where the fuel line had ruptured. I was able to put the fire out and the driver survived. So even if you never need it for yourself, carrying a fire extinguisher is a good idea.



Ok anyone else want to use the soap box?

 

Sure!

It makes all the sense in the world to carry a fire extinguisher on a 'better safe than sorry' basis.

An even safer practice is to simply avoid fires by keeping your car in good condition. So....change your fuel hoses every few years. And if you have Marelli ignition, keep in it good condition. You've now reduced the chances of needing a fire extinguisher to near zero.

Preaching to the choir, I know!

Cheers
DD

 

I carry a 2.5 lb Halotron extinguisher in all my cars after reading that's what all the classic Corvette drivers carry and speaking to a friend who is a veteran fire fighter and car guy. The problem with dry powder is that if you have a minor fire and put it out quick, the cost of cleanup could exceed the cost of repairs. That powder gets into everything and subsequently, if it gets wet, it becomes corrosive to some metals. The cleanup involves taking everything apart and vacuuming it all out. Halotron is expensive, but it doesn't leave any residue to have to clean up. You can get them on Amazon and from some classic car products vendors, but I got mine from a local fire extinguisher supply company close to my house. They sell glove-box sized 1lb units but my friend tells me 2.5lb is minimum you should carry.

AMEREX Fire Extinguisher, Halotron, ABC, 2B:C - G3980146 at Zoro

For an under hood fire, don't fully open the hood, rather just pop the hood an inch, aim the nozzle in that gap and fully discharge the unit. It will flood the engine bay with inert gas and smother the fire. Then push the hood fully closed so the gas takes a long time to dissipate, long enough for things to cool down and/or the fire dept to arrive.

But if you can't afford one of these, a dry-powder type is still better than none.

 

I am required to have one for certain off-road permits (beach fishing). Of that crew, anyone that's used one in an emergency has used one on someone else's car on the side of the highway. It's a good thing to have.

The one I have is white - I think this is for boats but there may not be any standard w/r/t colors. You do want A,B,C though (or at least on a boat you're required to have that).

I also carry a reflective collapsible triangle and a safety reflective vest in the trunk. Take up no space and changing a tire on the side of a highway with a narrow shoulder is stressful enough as it is.

I like PD's recommendations above.

 

Ive always had one in every car Ive owned. I have two large in garage and one in kitchen.
You cant be too safe with fire.

 

Thanks Phil, thats exactly the type of info i was looking for. Trying to vacuum powder from a v12s nooks and crannies just ain't gonna work out.

Appreciate the input everybody.

 

Yup, prevention is always better. On my XJ12, The fuel rail to injector hoses around the engine are the obvious ones with the high heat factor, are you also recommending changing out the others like around the fuel pump/cut over valves in the boot? Thanks