XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

First things on plug replacement

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Old Nov 9, 2020 | 09:28 PM
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Pirk's Avatar
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Default First things on plug replacement

First image is the plugs I replaced this weekend. I haven't really started inspecting them yet as it was a project to do, while I waited for other projects and parts, so kinda crazy. Thought I'd post and start getting feedback about the condition of the plugs - I can't speculate about how old the plugs are or how many miles, but some look worse than others...

Last two set of pictures are from after I did all the cleaning, replacement, etc. that goes with plug and wire replacement. There are a couple of things here.

1. I'm wondering how the cruise control bellows and shield should go - some pictures I see the bellows up with the shielding between the bellows and engine, but then I see images with it the other way. I installed it as per what I saw in Adam's video on plug replacement, but am having second thoughts as it doesn't really make sense to have the shield for the hood versus the heat of the engine.
2. The wire shroud is starting to disintegrate and I'm thinking about replacing - any thoughts on good wraps?
3. The retaining clip on the electrical going into A bank broke - that plastic hook clasp thingie that goes over the nub to keep the wiring in place... should I worry? (Broke on B also)
D. I've been trying to clean and noticed that some of the metal has a golden shine that if you start polishing turns to silver. What's the right way to get the various metal clean? I mean, I want it to look cool, but I don't want to F things up by cleaning when I shouldn't.





Image above shows more of the wire shielding deterioration and overview....
 

Last edited by Pirk; Nov 9, 2020 at 09:47 PM.
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Old Nov 10, 2020 | 12:33 AM
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Pirk, answers in red below. But I trust you have replaced those plugs? They look old, but actually not that bad from the combustion point of view. I would say the car needs to be driven harder and faster and more regularly!

1. I'm wondering how the cruise control bellows and shield should go - some pictures I see the bellows up with the shielding between the bellows and engine, but then I see images with it the other way. I installed it as per what I saw in Adam's video on plug replacement, but am having second thoughts as it doesn't really make sense to have the shield for the hood versus the heat of the engine. The shield goes below the bellows to protect them from the engine heat.
2. The wire shroud is starting to disintegrate and I'm thinking about replacing - any thoughts on good wraps? The most important thing with the wiring is to check that it is still reasonably flexible and the insulation not cooked or cracking. Re-wrapping it does not do much other than prettify it a bit. This sort of stuff can be opened up and slipped round the wiring without unplugging the loom - which is liable to do far more hard than good unless you feel like rewiring the entire engine bay.
3. The retaining clip on the electrical going into A bank broke - that plastic hook clasp thingie that goes over the nub to keep the wiring in place... should I worry? (Broke on B also) Cannot see what you mean.

What I would do is to move the injector loom off the floor of the V and cable tie it to the fuel rail. It cooks in the V and will cause the injectors to remain open when it shorts out, causing all sorts of troubles/ cat fires, engine failures ti start, etc etc.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2020 | 12:46 AM
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I agree with Greg.

Plugs look about :normsl" for an unknown life.

I use the NGK BPR6EF, which is the "projected nose" spec, and that has always worked well for me. Putting that spark actually out in the "bang juice" is easier on the Ignition system, and the fact most of are forced to drive more sedately than the car was ever designed for, the rest of the engine also.
Greg is the exception in France, his car is a damn missile, and he drives accordingly, JEALOUS, hell yes.

The rest is answered perfectly.

Beer O'clock and 38C here.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2020 | 10:39 AM
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Regarding "I've been trying to clean and noticed that some of the metal has a golden shine that if you start polishing turns to silver. What's the right way to get the various metal clean? I mean, I want it to look cool, but I don't want to F things up by cleaning when I shouldn't."
You're probably removing the cadmium finish and the "silver" is the base metal. It's never advised to remove the protective finish as rust will be the next finish you'll end up with.
Tom
 
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Old Nov 12, 2020 | 01:15 PM
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I'm not sure if it is the lighting but your bank A plugs look fouled as though it was running rich or in misfire. How do it run?
 
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Old Nov 12, 2020 | 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Dopplebocker
Regarding "I've been trying to clean and noticed that some of the metal has a golden shine that if you start polishing turns to silver. What's the right way to get the various metal clean? I mean, I want it to look cool, but I don't want to F things up by cleaning when I shouldn't."
You're probably removing the cadmium finish and the "silver" is the base metal. It's never advised to remove the protective finish as rust will be the next finish you'll end up with.
Tom
Yup - I shoulda known that. Just one more thing to add to the list - there's actually quite a few things now that I'm looking that could use re-plating.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2020 | 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Xjeffs
I'm not sure if it is the lighting but your bank A plugs look fouled as though it was running rich or in misfire. How do it run?
She ran pretty well, except when trying to start her when being really hot. Summer time, Texas, 110 out, drive about 10 miles, stop for 10 to 15 minutes. Hard to start, back-fire, gotta jam the gas to get her going. That got better the more I drove her - she'd been essentially sitting in a garage for 20 years until I got her last year, driven maybe 4 times a year - and that was usually to and from the gas station to get a new battery because it had sat with no use for so long.

I've been slowly starting to go through the various tuning things I should do, just to check. So far I haven't come across anything, but it's really just been new plugs, wires, and cleaning the AAV - still a ton more to check but any tips to keep in mind is of course super awesome and will be paid in beer should one make it down to Austin

I added a video capturing the sound off the exhaust pipes...

Here's some maybe better pictures...








 
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Old Nov 13, 2020 | 02:35 AM
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I reckon the key here is "lack of use, as it got better the more I drove it", is the car pleading to go for a run, say Vegas and back. They be like chalk and cheese after a long run. Mine always "settled in" after about 400kms.

I would not worry too much about rust in there, the Jaguar "built in rust proofing", AKA, Oil Leaks will sort that for FREE.

All my V12's had plugs like that after running locally for months, so as I said, kind of "normal".
 
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Old Nov 13, 2020 | 01:42 PM
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I'm with Grant on this one... those plugs look pretty normal and once you get her up and running again put some miles on her. Mine sat in storage for 10 years, bad gas, sluggish performance, poor idle until over 400 miles this year and low-and-behold Pownce is feeling much better. (Of course I had a myriad of things to refurbish and repair but hey.. that's what we do!)
Sadly it's deep winter here now so.. back she goes to sleep.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2020 | 02:40 PM
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Default Misfire?

Your 6B spark plug looks amazingly clean. Is that injector working? The rest of the plugs look pretty normal. A bit black, probably from lack of driving.
On my 79, and my 83, all the wiring in the Vee, was cooked and had to be replaced. This included the injector harness, the wires to the AC compressor, and to the temperature sensor on the right bank. The distributor wiring wasn't heat damaged but mice got it.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2020 | 01:47 PM
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Hey Grant. Speaking of plugs, the ones you referenced with the longer nose, I only fine the part number you sited with an "S" on the end... Like NGK BPR6EF(*S)... Same thing?
 
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Old Nov 17, 2020 | 07:15 PM
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Jason,

Yes in princiiple.

The "S" indicates the Standard flat TIP of the cenrtre electrode.

Without the "S" the TIP of the centre electrode has a "V" cut in it.

Either or, same same, as we say.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2020 | 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Grant Francis
Jason,

Yes in princiiple.

The "S" indicates the Standard flat TIP of the cenrtre electrode.

Without the "S" the TIP of the centre electrode has a "V" cut in it.

Either or, same same, as we say.
Thank you, Grant... Many thanks
 
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