XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

Front splitter

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Old 01-16-2013, 04:16 PM
sidescrollin's Avatar
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Default Front splitter

Can someone please take a pic of their front splitter underneath for me? I've never had the bottom panel and just got one. Was wondering what kind of fasteners it uses. Probably just machine screws?

I don't want to damage the splitter but there are a lot of holes in it and it seems difficult to hold a nut on the other side so I'm assuming it uses screws.....


Thanks guys
 
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Old 01-16-2013, 06:29 PM
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That is held on by many screws as you already know.

Mine originally had captive nuts in the lower panel, and small bolts and nuts at the ends, due to access via the lower panel of the guard. I replaced all of them with aluminium "nutserts" very early in the ownership, as the Jag bits were rusty, and I could see issues at a later date.

A PITA whichever way it goes.

A couple of snaps of mine fitted, but sadly nothing from the backside, never considered taking any.

Front splitter-grilles-pc.jpg

Front splitter-xjs-mesh-grille-2.jpg
 
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Old 01-17-2013, 02:46 AM
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Originally Posted by sidescrollin
Can someone please take a pic of their front splitter underneath for me? I've never had the bottom panel and just got one. Was wondering what kind of fasteners it uses. Probably just machine screws?

I don't want to damage the splitter but there are a lot of holes in it and it seems difficult to hold a nut on the other side so I'm assuming it uses screws.....
The undertray was originally fixed to the airdam by self tappers. These were inserted through the holes in the airdam and they bit into those flat U shaped spring clip thingies which were clipped over the matching holes in the undertray, the edge of one of these is just visible in one of the photos. As Grant says, if you can get some sort of clinch nut fixed into the undertray holes, that will work nicely, trouble usually is that the tray front holes are so frayed the nuts will not really hold.

There are two conical indentations in the tray which, when fitted, line up with two nylon inserts in the cross member under the radiator, and two more self tapping screws with wide washers are fixed in here.

Finally, at each sdie at the back of the undertray, they fix to the bottom of the protective shields at the front of the wheel well, making a 90° join. What I did was to use a bit of aluminium angle to reinforce this join and managed to use clinch nuts here.

Greg

pics herewith:




 
Attached Thumbnails Front splitter-img_1836-1.jpg   Front splitter-img_1289.jpg   Front splitter-img_1288.jpg   Front splitter-img_1286.jpg   Front splitter-img_1837.jpg  

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Old 01-17-2013, 04:34 AM
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AHA, a V12 that does NOT leak oil.

Fairly brings a tear to the eye.
 
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Old 01-17-2013, 08:28 AM
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  #6  
Old 01-18-2013, 09:21 AM
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thanks greg thats just what i needed.
seems i dont have those clips anymore...

On the wheel well liners, are those bolts or screws??
BOTH of mine came undone and flapped back at high speed, grinding down a large portion of them, after this i couldn't get them to stay in place anymore.

This coupled with something else i havent figured out yet seems to make my car REALLY loud when its turned on or idling from the air being blown around onto the ground and throughout the engine bay
 
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Old 01-19-2013, 03:03 AM
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Originally Posted by sidescrollin
thanks greg thats just what i needed.
seems i dont have those clips anymore...

On the wheel well liners, are those bolts or screws??
BOTH of mine came undone and flapped back at high speed, grinding down a large portion of them, after this i couldn't get them to stay in place anymore.
What I did was get a bit of aluminium 90° angle 'iron' about the length of the join. I drilled this in line with the holes in the undertray and inner wing shields, and crimped clinch nuts into the holes. This is an item a bit like a wide pop rivet, the inside of which is threaded. Crimp it on and you have a captive nut. Not sure what the official name for these is on the Land of the Free.

Then used small stainless bolts to fix the angle piece to the plastic. Works well, and worked for years before I did the rebuild too. Basically, where I can use a nut and bolt instead of a self tapper, I do so. The screws holding the curved front of the undertray are stainless too, as these corrode out very fast otherwise.
Greg
 
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