XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

Front vee mounts

 
  #1  
Old 01-12-2019, 02:42 PM
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Default Front vee mounts

Hi

My vee mounts (front crossmember to chasss rubber mounts) looks tired, so I consider changing them.
The car is a ‘77 PreHE with ‘88 HE engine and gearbox. I suppose my vee mounts still will be ‘77 spec.

How difficult are they to change ? I have done it on my XJ40 6-cylinder, when I replaced the subframe. I guess this is more or less the same, but I wouldn’t be surprised, if access is more cramped.
Any suggestions on the procedure? Suspend engine, loosen engine mounts, lower rear end of subframe, change mounts, assemble ?

Original mounts are quite expensive. Will aftermarket parts be ok ? Any recommendations, preferably in U.K./Europe (to avoid import tax and fees...) ?
 
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Old 01-12-2019, 03:27 PM
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Never changed them so no help in that regard.

But....

Some aftermarket brands are iffy in terms of quality/longevity. "URO" brand comes to mind here, for one. Paying the price for OEM might be money well spent considering the labor involved if you get unlucky with a lower cost alternative.

Cheers
DD
 
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Old 01-12-2019, 03:41 PM
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I have found URO can be a good alternative. MTC products are crap. Consistently, all the time worthless.

I would use URO if the savings was substantial and the effort to replace the part was minimal. If it were something difficult and lengthy to replace, I’d pay up for OEM.
 
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Old 01-12-2019, 03:47 PM
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The V mounts can be changed without removing the subframe.

- Undo engine mounts and support engine from the top
- Remove front wheels.
- Drop exhaust downpipe RH for RHD LH for LHD
- Separate steering column from rack
- Put a jack under the back of the X member
- Undo the V mount nuts and the X member should drop just enough to undo the V mount bolts

Be careful of the brake lines if you drop the X member too far these will pull tight.
 
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Old 01-12-2019, 08:02 PM
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Easy to change if the bolts havent rusted to the frame.

To change just loosen the front 2 large subframe bolts by the radiator. Next.. loosen the 3 bolts on the rear subframe bushes. Then jack the car up at the jack point. The car will go up a bit and front subframe will hinge down and stay on the ground creating space for you to remove the mount. Slip in the new mount and move on to the other side. There is enough movment in the rack u joint to change with out un-doing.

I've done XJ40 mounts, they are much harder.
 

Last edited by icsamerica; 01-12-2019 at 08:06 PM.
  #6  
Old 01-13-2019, 01:31 AM
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Leo
The mounts are under compression, and the original factory items are practically indestructible. Unless they are perished and split, leave well alone!
If you must change them, this is what I did (and I realise I am repeating what Warrjon has mentioned, but with a couple of differences):
  • Beam across engine and chains down to the front lifting eyes, engine supported.
  • Undo engine mount top nuts, loosen but do not remove the mount bottom nuts (9/16th ratchet spanner idea for this), removing the air boxes just gives enough space to do it, but not that easy. If you do not loosen both mounting nuts, getting the mount stud re-engaged with the slot in the engine bracket when you reassemble, will be damn near impossible.
  • Car on lift, or if not it must be off the ground enough to give you good access under the subframe
  • Remove front wheels and remove shock absorber bottom bolts
  • Loosen front huge six shot subframe bolts
  • Loosen and remove steering UJ pinch bolt, and remove the UJ from the rack tower (you cannot lower the subframe enough if this remains in place)
  • Check enough slack in the engine/subframe/LHS chassis rail earth strap. If not, unbolt strap from rail
  • Place trolley jack under front subframe use a wooden spreader to prevent point loading
  • The V mounts are fixed to the chassis rail by two bolts, only ONE of which can be accessed with the subframe in place, so the subframe has to be lowered a considerable way to undo the inaccessible one. Therefore (ensuring the jack is in place and taking load) undo the nut each side that fixes the subframe to the V mount, 9/16th I think. Carefully ensure you keep the thick washer under the nut and reuse it.
  • Relax the jack an inch or so and lever down the rear of the subframe, continue to relax and lever until you can get to the inaccessible forward mount to chassis rail nut. As Warrjon said, watch that the brake flexibles do not get stressed. If they are, you will have to disconnect them, or unbolt the calliper. I very respectfully think Warren may be mistaken, as I do not think you have to touch the exhaust or downpipes at all.
  • take CAREFUL note of which way round the V mounts go, they are offset and can easily be fitted the wrong way round (guess how I know).
  • Once all in place, jack up the subframe until the engine mount studs are just about touching the engine brackets. A helper is pretty important here; as the subframe is raised by the jack, the mount studs have to be encouraged into the bracket slot by you leaning over the wing and fiddling them with a screwdriver or somesuch. This is the real pain of the entire process!
  • Once the mount stud are in the brackets, continue jacking and ensure the V mount studs go into their subframe holes.
  • Attach the steering UJ and do up the pinch bolt, the steering UJ can only fit one way (within a spline or two anyway) as there is a slot in the splines for the pinch bolt.
  • Do up the subframe bolts and thick washers, and then the shock absorbers bottom bolt, and the earth strap if removed.
  • Tighten the front six shot bolts
  • Reattach the wheels.
  • Once on the ground, remove the beam and do up the engine mount nuts top and bottom
I think this is everything, and I hope this both encourages and warns you, it is fiddly, but take your time and it will go OK. But, as I said, be sure the bold ones really need changing.
 
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Old 01-13-2019, 04:46 AM
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Thanks all, that was an overwhelming outcome !

As expected there are different approaches to the task, and the icsamerica way looks quite tempting. I suppose it will put some strain on the exhaust system when the engine goes down with the subframe, but as I’m going to work on the clearance on the exhaust, it could be disconnected during the exchange of vee mounts.
Regarding the condition of my mounts: They are ‘just’ sagged and full of ‘wrinkles’, I don’t think they have delaminated. They are either from 1977 (original), 1989 (body refurb) or 1996 (HE conversion). I will see if I can do a photo, I work on the rear end for the moment (fuel lines over IRS being changed)
Regarding choosing OEM vs non OEM. I was hoping for a recommendation of a cheaper alternative, and so far Vee has recommended URO. I will not look into the job (and order parts) until I’m done fixing the rear end tasks and finishing my injections fuel line exchange and injector cleaning, so there is still time to come with inputs.
 

Last edited by leo_denmark; 01-13-2019 at 04:56 AM.
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Old 01-13-2019, 02:59 PM
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I used URO front mounts a few months ago, ordered from Rockauto, you couldn't see the severe cracks in the originals until they were removed. This contributed to my front-end vibration quite abit.

New mounts + all Superflex poly bushings made for a very very nimble Jag.
 
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Old 01-14-2019, 01:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Greg in France View Post
  • Relax the jack an inch or so and lever down the rear of the subframe, continue to relax and lever until you can get to the inaccessible forward mount to chassis rail nut. As Warrjon said, watch that the brake flexibles do not get stressed. If they are, you will have to disconnect them, or unbolt the calliper. I very respectfully think Warren may be
  • mistaken, as I do not think you have to touch the exhaust or downpipes at all.
Greg's write up is way more detailed than mine I left lots out.

I had the subframe out, it's just going back in now and I can not get at the steering pinch bolt with the down pipe in place, I had to remove it.

You can see the subframe V mounts just above the sump in this pic I took today.

 
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Old 06-11-2019, 03:22 PM
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Hi all

I have decided to change my wishbone bushings and front subframe bushings as well, so I guess the easiest way forward is 'just' to suspend the engine from above, remove front road springs, detach/suspend (or remove) the steering rack and brakes and then drop the complete crossmember ?

I have decided to bite the bullet and use OEM vee mounts and 6-shot front mounts, but would you go for OEM wishbone bushings or polybush ?
I have heard several owners being very happy for the polybushes, but will I loose a lot of comfort by choosing them ?
 
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Old 06-11-2019, 03:40 PM
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I would put poly in the 6 shot and rack and OEM in the wishbone. You will not loose comfort with Poly in the 6 shot and rack,

I have poly in the upper wishbone and while it sharpens up the steering further it does increase feedback (read vibration). You can feel irregularities in the road through the wheel. If you want a sports car then Poly if you want a GT then OEM.
 
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Old 06-11-2019, 04:06 PM
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Thanks a lot. The XJ-S is a GT in my opinion, and I will keep mine that way. OEM it is.
 
 
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