Front wheels won't come off without a sledge hammer! XJS V12
#1
Front wheels won't come off without a sledge hammer! XJS V12
My Front Wheels have dust protectors which is good!
The only problem being that I cannot get the wheels off without using a sledge hammer (on the Tires)
Which could be a disaster, if you want to change a wheel by the side of the road and haven't got a sledge hammer in your Toolbox!
Any ideas what to do?
Should I put grease or something on the outside faces of the dust protectors?
I'm a bit wary of doing this as I don't want any grease spinning off with Centrifugal force and getting on to the brakes.
I did consider sprinkling some of the Girlfriends Talcum power on the dust protector covers instead of using grease (it might even work) but I am still undecided as to whether to use Lavender or Lilly of The Valley?
The only problem being that I cannot get the wheels off without using a sledge hammer (on the Tires)
Which could be a disaster, if you want to change a wheel by the side of the road and haven't got a sledge hammer in your Toolbox!
Any ideas what to do?
Should I put grease or something on the outside faces of the dust protectors?
I'm a bit wary of doing this as I don't want any grease spinning off with Centrifugal force and getting on to the brakes.
I did consider sprinkling some of the Girlfriends Talcum power on the dust protector covers instead of using grease (it might even work) but I am still undecided as to whether to use Lavender or Lilly of The Valley?
#2
OB,
I don't know how your dust protectors are fitted, but the late XJS wheels are a bit prone to sticking on the hub face. I would make sure that you have a good smear of copperease on the hub face between the wheel bolts and also on the face of the wheel where it mates to the hub.
Paul
I don't know how your dust protectors are fitted, but the late XJS wheels are a bit prone to sticking on the hub face. I would make sure that you have a good smear of copperease on the hub face between the wheel bolts and also on the face of the wheel where it mates to the hub.
Paul
Last edited by ptjs1; 04-26-2014 at 05:10 AM.
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orangeblossom (04-26-2014)
#3
Yep, ya get that on those "hub centric" systems.
I always put a smear of Copper Coat, or Anti sieze (Nickel), on the small snout of the hubs whenever they are off. It is a habit that goes waaaaay back.
Stuck wheels are a pain in any situation, and addressing this now is obviously better than on the side of the road, dressed to the Nines.
I had limited success with a Non Jag, by removing the wheel niuts and spraying copiuos amounts of WD40 thru the stud gap, using the small tube attachment, and then WAIT. Once off, some Brake Clean solvent to delube the brakes was all that was needed.
I always put a smear of Copper Coat, or Anti sieze (Nickel), on the small snout of the hubs whenever they are off. It is a habit that goes waaaaay back.
Stuck wheels are a pain in any situation, and addressing this now is obviously better than on the side of the road, dressed to the Nines.
I had limited success with a Non Jag, by removing the wheel niuts and spraying copiuos amounts of WD40 thru the stud gap, using the small tube attachment, and then WAIT. Once off, some Brake Clean solvent to delube the brakes was all that was needed.
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orangeblossom (04-26-2014)
#4
OB,
I don't know how your dust protectors are fitted, but the late XJS wheels are a bit prone to sticking on the hub face. I would make sure that you have a good smear of copperease on the hub face between the wheel bolts and also on the face of the wheel where it mates to the hub.
Paul
I don't know how your dust protectors are fitted, but the late XJS wheels are a bit prone to sticking on the hub face. I would make sure that you have a good smear of copperease on the hub face between the wheel bolts and also on the face of the wheel where it mates to the hub.
Paul
Thanks, A small amount of Copper grease sounds about right, I will give that a try.
#5
Yep, ya get that on those "hub centric" systems.
I always put a smear of Copper Coat, or Anti sieze (Nickel), on the small snout of the hubs whenever they are off. It is a habit that goes waaaaay back.
Stuck wheels are a pain in any situation, and addressing this now is obviously better than on the side of the road, dressed to the Nines.
I had limited success with a Non Jag, by removing the wheel niuts and spraying copiuos amounts of WD40 thru the stud gap, using the small tube attachment, and then WAIT. Once off, some Brake Clean solvent to delube the brakes was all that was needed.
I always put a smear of Copper Coat, or Anti sieze (Nickel), on the small snout of the hubs whenever they are off. It is a habit that goes waaaaay back.
Stuck wheels are a pain in any situation, and addressing this now is obviously better than on the side of the road, dressed to the Nines.
I had limited success with a Non Jag, by removing the wheel niuts and spraying copiuos amounts of WD40 thru the stud gap, using the small tube attachment, and then WAIT. Once off, some Brake Clean solvent to delube the brakes was all that was needed.
You are right, you certainly don't want that happening, by the side of the road!
Even a Club Hammer wasn't enough to dislodge them, I had to get the big guns out to do it.
Good job I found that out sooner rather than later!
I will try some Copper Grease!
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Grant Francis (04-26-2014)
#6
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orangeblossom (04-28-2014)
#7
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orangeblossom (04-28-2014)
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#8
So I gave them a Coating of Copper Grease and put the sledge hammer away.
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Just jumping in because you mentioned 'grease'....
For the purpose of preventing the wheels from getting stuck onto the hubs, ordinary 'high temp wheel bearing grease' will do the job perfectly well. There's no particular need to use a (surely more expensive) anti-seize product. Unless, of course, it makes you feel good...a perfectly understandable notion
Also, if your arm gets weak from sledge-hammering.......
Loosen the lugnuts one or two turns and then drive the car....slowly....like walking-pace...thru a couple figure-8 patterns. This will break the wheels away from the hubs.
Cheers
DD
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orangeblossom (04-28-2014)
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orangeblossom (04-28-2014)
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orangeblossom (04-28-2014)
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orangeblossom (04-28-2014)
#14
Just jumping in because you mentioned 'grease'....
For the purpose of preventing the wheels from getting stuck onto the hubs, ordinary 'high temp wheel bearing grease' will do the job perfectly well. There's no particular need to use a (surely more expensive) anti-seize product. Unless, of course, it makes you feel good...a perfectly understandable notion
Also, if your arm gets weak from sledge-hammering.......
Loosen the lugnuts one or two turns and then drive the car....slowly....like walking-pace...thru a couple figure-8 patterns. This will break the wheels away from the hubs.
Cheers
DD
For the purpose of preventing the wheels from getting stuck onto the hubs, ordinary 'high temp wheel bearing grease' will do the job perfectly well. There's no particular need to use a (surely more expensive) anti-seize product. Unless, of course, it makes you feel good...a perfectly understandable notion
Also, if your arm gets weak from sledge-hammering.......
Loosen the lugnuts one or two turns and then drive the car....slowly....like walking-pace...thru a couple figure-8 patterns. This will break the wheels away from the hubs.
Cheers
DD
'Grease may be the word!' But instead I am using 'Yardley's Sandalwood' Talcum Powder as worn by my GF.
The Wheels don't stick and they smell gorgeous, which will hopefully help Her pass the MOT! (That's the Car not the girlfriend!)
But you have to give her a good rub down, before you sprinkle it on.
(That's the girlfriend, not the Car!)
Love the idea of driving around in a figure 8 with the wheelnuts undone!
I wonder what the boys in blue are going to think about that!
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orangeblossom (04-28-2014)
#17
We decided to go for 'Yardley's Sandalwood' It make those wheels smell Gorgeous! (grease seems to cause a suction)
#18
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orangeblossom (04-28-2014)