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That is pretty much what I have decided. Given that I have a limited time window for the repair, I cannot see trying to find a suitable in-tank replacement. Walbro makes some great pumps. I have a Bosch 044 back in Baltimore, but didnt bring it out west. For $100, Walbro has one that matches the flow of the stock. And they have install kits that include the rubber mount and the NPT to barb fittings.
I may not have the time to get a swirl tank before I have to get this done. So it will be the pump alone at first. I will mount it somewhere in the IRS cage near the filter.
Then when I return in the spring, I want to replace the stock tank with a rotomolded fuel cell. I can get those with a built in sump, and will be a lot simpler to plumb properly.
I was in the midst of installing one from Summit Racing in my TVR before I had to come out to Seattle. Where all my time was planned to finish up the rebuild on my boat engine. So expediency has to be paramount here. And as funny as it sounds, the O’Reilly auto store down the street has given me permission to work on the car in their back parking lot. So if I can avoid pulling the tank for now, all the pieces seem to fall in place.
Thanks for all your advice on this, much appreciated. And I am so glad this did not happen on my recent cross country run.
That sounds like a Plan, so now you've got time to get all your 'Ducks in a Row' for when you return and if you can do it yourself then so much better, as while it may be comforting to have some expert help on hand
Experts can be a very expensive option, especially if there are two of them on $50+ per hour or whatever they charge, so in your situation the only thing you're missing is the time to do the job as do you come across as being a very capable guy
So have a great Vacation and hit us all up when you get back with a progress report
Scott. that is a VERY good decision, in my view. An accessible external tank and pump is a great plan. FYI there are in-swirl pot pump and sump kits that might be worth considering, as long as you can get a gravity feed to them. Even better if they can be site in the boot lower than the main tank. Do a search on swirl pumps with in-tank pumps. The ones on Amazon are dirt cheap, and you can buy ever more expensive ons as you wish. Before I sorted out my new pump arrandgements, I came very close to doing this myself, but in the boot, not under the car! e.g.
Part 2 in the diagram is what's called a "fuel pump module" it's a housing that usually has the pumps and a bit of hose or a Y pipe inside. Open it up, and you'll find two regular fuel pumps. Match them up to either a Bosch or Walbro ( both are OEM suppliers) and reassemble.
Maybe I am just too old for this, and missing something in the threads.
External pump, GOOD idea. Brilliant in fact.
Fuel supply to said external pump FROM an IN tank pump system, HOW?
Removing the pipe under the car, either one, will NOT have fuel gravity flowing from those spigots, UNLESS the XJS is special in that area.
All my In Tank Pump cars DO NOT drain the tank when the pipes are removed. Some fuel spillage, of course, there is fuel in the lines, but certainly no continuous flow that will empty the tank.
The internal pump, when it works, supplies HI pressure fuel TO the outlet spigot, into which is plugged a supply pipe for the engine. The fuel sloshing around inside that tank cannot get into that spigot, and thus OUT of the tank, by any means than a working pump.
Same for the return spigot, the return fuel goes via a tube isnide the tank, again, negating the sloshing fuel getting out of the tank.
SOME of these tanks have a drain plug, drad centre bottom lip, MOST do not. One of mine did, the rest, nope.
EARLY XJ40 cars had an external pump, mounted inside the rear cradle, and the tank had the required BIG hose for gravity feed to that pump. Later XJ40 went In Tank, and the above applies, as does X300/308 cars. The XJS just followed the production mads as required.
If I have finally lost it, SORRY, and I will retreat to the "naughty corner" with my new bottle of Canadian Club, HA.
We must all bow to the Southern Cross and pay our Honour to the Great XJS Prophet of the Southern Cross. Also as an extra, bow to the OrangeBlossom Tree in the matter of how to do the job!
The lack of gravity feed renders all previous ideas unworkable.
But Scott, a search revealed this and loads of others, though there seem to be loads of part numbers on the Jaguar site: https://walbrofuelpumps.com/jaguar-x...2-cyl-6-0.html
The problem seems to be only getting the new pump into the plastic module that holds it to the tank, and how hard that is I have no idea, but OB will!
So I would think best to just get it in and working as per OEM! Provided you have the release tool for the under tank/through the floor spigot to pipe connector, and can get the new pump into the module. Then have another 20 years of trouble free running.
Last edited by Greg in France; Dec 15, 2020 at 07:31 AM.
As Simon Cowell is fond of saying, you really just don't know how good you are! as you are absolutely 'Spot On' with those comments and though I am not Worthy of putting Shrimps on your 'Barbie'
Having had to do this job a couple of times myself and from a practical view point of having been there and done it, removing the Flow or Return Pipes from the Tank from underneath the Car, may make a little bit of a mess as the Fuel Pipes empty out, although apart from that the Fuel will not Flow freely under Gravity as you said
All the Plumbing inside the Tank will stop that, as at the time in question I came up against that when I also wanted to fit an external Fuel Pump myself, where with the benefit of hindsight what I think I could have done was while the Tank was full of Water while I was Washing it out
Was to run a drill through the Inlet and Outlet Fuel Pipe Stubs coming out of the Tank to 'Puncture' the Plumbing inside it, or else use a Plumbers Rotary Pipe Cutter inside the Tank to cut those Pipes off, as close to the bottom of the Tank as I was able to do
Once again while the Tank was Full of Water, to avoid the possibility of blowing myself up, though since I didn't try this I really do not know if this would work, although I'm really getting the feeling that it would, although I think that you would know for sure
Also as the Fuel Tank sits up on a shelf, there should be room enough for a low profile Sump Tank/Swirl Pot underneath and if that Pump ever goes again, then this would be a 'Mod' I'd try and do
I also don't care what the Experts say as replacing that In-Tank Fuel Pump (especially on a Convertible) is a Totally Soul Destroying PIA sort of job although no doubt its much easier if you have someone to help you but 'Where's The Fun In That'
Should be plenty of room for a low profile Sump Tank/Swirl Pot just below this Shelf and even better if there is room to Swap that Facelift Fuel Tank for a Pre-Facelift one
Grant is correct about not having a gravity fuel feed from the tank IN/OUTlets from the modern tanks.
BTW a tool is not necessary to remove those lines.
All that you need to do is spread the straight part of the wire 'D' that holds the line to the tank.
Once the wire is out of the way (about a 1/4") the hose should just pull out unless it's Gunked up.
I talked with both Walbro and Airtex technical support today. What they are selling are inline replacements. They claim not to have in-tank models.
I just went over to our city bus maintenance depot. Found a mechanic who has a garage and lift at home. And needs $$ for Xmas. So I think I have a solution.
One of our forum members from Latvia sent me info on this pump that he has bought for his convertible. Looks like it will work as a replacement.
What you need to be Careful about is that your Replacement In-Tank Fuel Pump has the Same Electrical Socket on Top as the one on the Pump you are taking out, as if not Trust me when I say that you will be Crying 'Big Time for a Long Time' and will shed enough Tears to Float your Boat at Low Tide!
So how do I ensure that? As an exact replacement does not seem to be available, my choices are universal in-tank Walbro, Airtex, Bosch or some no name Chinese pump from Ebay.
I cannot find a picture anywhere of what the connector type is from factory. And I cannot tie up a lift once we have the tank out to search the internet for a suitable replacement.
This entire scenario is a joke/horror show.
Does anyone have a picture of their original pump?
ALL the aftermarket pumps I have used that are IN tank, come with the pump, sock filter, clamps, AND an electrical plug with attached leads that fits THAT pump, so if the plug in the receiving vehicle is different, use the one supplied and splice the wires to the car loom inside the tank.
I say this without exception, and after 55 years in Spare Parts, some things are just taken for granted, especially down here.
ALSO
And I am flying blind on an XJS set up.
On the XJ40, X300 etc wiring, the chassis loom plugs into the outside of the "lid" in the top of the tank, then a "mini loom" travels from the inside of that "lid" TO the internal pump.
That "Mini loom", AND the connection THROUGH that lid, are the root cause of INOP fuel pumps of these cars. The pumps are generally OK, just the electrickery cannot get to the pump due to crappy connections at/in that "lid".
Well worth instructing your "man" on this, as it is easily overlooked, and then the tank will need to come out a 2nd time for wiring repairs, OOPS.
Last edited by Grant Francis; Dec 17, 2020 at 05:09 AM.
Amongst my many talents is being a certified marine electrician. I have all the pieces needed to build the mini-loom. And I have ordered a universal. Pump install kit with an assortment of plugs.
The pump should be here monday. Car is going out to the mech’s place on friday afternoon
