Jagzilla the plugs wont be a problem ,with the runner reversed there is plenty of room for a socket. Katoh I wish I could take credit for this intake but I saw a picture of an Austin healy with a Jag v12 with a supercharger and he had a manifold like this. After looking at it for awhile it dawned on me how he made it, so I decided to make one. I never thought about heat from the v. If it gets too hot maybe I can duct some fresh air to it. Thanks John

 

I thought I would post some pictures of the left front fender being made and of the cowl hood I am working on. One picture is the mold with gelcoat in it and several after layup and removal from mold. There are a couple from different angles with the fender and hood on. John

 

That's some great looking work there, John.
It looks like you've molded the lower front corners of the car too. Am I right?

 

Great Work, very inspirational.
I’m watching this thread with lots of interest, thanks for the updates.

 

Thanks Jagzilla,I did make the lower valances because the flare does extend into them. I was looking at your sketch of your desired modifications and your hood is similar to mine. The duct in your hood could be installed in mine with little effort. It gave me several ideas, the duct could be just in front of my air cleaner with a pan below it which would also bring fresh air in to remove under hood heat. John

 

John,
My idea for the intake duct is similar to what you described, but, it would include a flap which is operated by a vacuum solenoid, so that it remains closed during normal driving, but, begins to open up after about 3/4 throttle, as the engine vacuum increases. The concept is similar to the Air Grabber pop-up scoops on some of the late 60s MOPARS, and if I remember correctly, Chevy used it on the Z28 scoop during the last couple years of the gen2 body. Since JagZilla will be my daily driver (just as she was before I began this project), this feature will keep my motor from sucking in water when it's raining.

Looking at my sketch, you'll also see that I plan to open up the front turn signal bulges, to act as air ducts for the front brakes. Your fiberglass lower panels would make it a lot easier to do that, and have it look like a clean, well-executed modification.

Thanks for continually updating this post. I hope you'll continue to do so, because, I'm very interested in seeing how the rear quarter panel skins attach, as well as just how much steel can be cut away for weight savings. I'm still wondering if your rear flares would cover my wheels, as I'm planning on running Viper-size meats (18x10 front, and 19x12 rear).

It's crazy cool to see you doing this right now, because, for me, it's like watching some of my ideas for my own car jump right off the drawing board.

I hope you'll let us know when you come up with a pricing structure for individual pieces, as well as for all of them together as a package.

 

Jagzilla,the rear flares measure 15 inches from fender lip to inside of wheel well. the fronts measure 17 inches.

 

For those who like the Group 44 team (and who doesn't?) you may be interested in the UK magazine Practical Performance Classics' July edition...


I've also include one of my car drawings that I do as a hobby....Jaguars seem to feature a lot although I have done other makes.


David

 

Great drawing Jag Sticker, you clearly have talent ! I will look for this July issue PPC.

 

You definitely have some talent there.

I've found both Practical Classics Magazine, and, Practical Performance Car Magazine, in a Google search, but, not Practical Performance Classics Magazine. Do you have a link to their website?

 

My mistake...
www.ppcmag.co.uk

 

I emailed the editor
















I emailed the editor














































I emailed the editor and he is going to send my email to the guy who is writing the article. Maybe he can help us find the magazine here. John

 

Beautiful...
short intake runner... good for Hi PRMs...

the corvette s wrap them all the was around and go in on the other side to get length for more lower end torque...

What size throttle body are you using...?

 

The throttle body is 92mm. Almost the same as the inside of the tube. Still need to weld together and re-drill holes for injectors. John

 

This is one of the rear quarter panel flares.

 

That's pretty damn cool, John.

2 questions:

1. Is the quarter molded with that horizontal gap for the rear bumper mounts, or, did you cut that into it?
I will be eliminating the rear bumper, and smoothing everything out, so, it would be a plus for me if that section was originally molded in there, and you had to cut it out in order to use it with a bumper.

2. How much of the original steel quarter panel can be cut away for weight savings, without compromising the bond, or, the strength of the panel?

Thanks

 

JagZilla you are correct it has the slot made into it for the bumper. I am removing the bumpers but will retain the chrome blades. I guess you could remove the original quarter but it is easy to install with quarter on. As far as weight savings with old quarter off you might save 7 or 8 pounds in sheet metal per side. With your flywheel and drive shaft you have done more for performance by removing rotating mass than would be gained saving on quarter panel removal. The front fenders and valances should weigh about half of stock pieces. I have pictures of Group 44s tube chassis car they built after I was gone and will post so you can see how they did it. As you know these cars are heavy. The car we raced in 1978 had the body built for us by BL. It was acid dipped before assembly in was 250 pounds lighter than stock. It also had and aluminum roll cage and single pipe exhaust to help save weight. After all that work that car was only 50 pounds lighter than the 77 car. Lanky never understood how that much weight got back on that car. Did not matter though we won 7 races in a row.

 

You're right. A little extra weight at the rear isn't such a bad thing when the car has so much of it's weight bias sitting over the front wheels. Since the car will be a daily driver, I would also probably setting myself up for a rust problem in a few years if I cut beyond the wheel wells.

 

The nice thing about those fender flares is that they would look great with or without the bumpers !

 

If you would like me to buy a few copies and post to you I can sort that out mate.