XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

Idle Relay 1990 XJS Convertible

  #1  
Old 08-23-2018, 05:36 PM
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Default Idle Relay 1990 XJS Convertible

Hello folks. Still chasing the A.C. problem and thought it might be best to try to deal with things one step (or bit) at a time... I still need tons of help with this machine.

There is a "connection" between the Idle Relay and the A.C. system... Below is a photo of my Idle Relay. I have the Black and Brown wire (see schematic) running thru the Sup Air Valve which is finally working and engaging nicely when power is supplied from from the A.C. Relay. It finally kicked open after some cleaning, solvent and rewiring. Namely the Green and White wire that was wrongly wired by PO. Now, when I manually engage the the A.C. relay I hear the SAV kick open and the Idle jump a little tick. The GW wire (which is also the color going into the AC Compressor) changes to Black and Brown "BN" on the out side of the SAV ending at the Idle Relay.

Also, the Black and Green "BG" wire running from the Starter Relay, to and thru the Idle Relay and the Neutral Switch under the console (yes i have removed the entire console and have accessed and disassembled much of the lower dash to get to ALL the AC dials and components) are rewired and working nicely.

The climate control's (knobs) now open, shift zones and move thru fan speeds nicely now when turned. Also the air temp will slowly change from heat to ambient air temp (no AC) with the turning of the temp control knob. I can see and hear flaps moving around and the little solenoid pumps turning off and on rightly... Pulling the temp knob in and out (a clever secret I knew NOTHING about until recently) works as well. I also re-hard grounded the entire climate control redundantly...

Also, this poking and prodding, cleaning and rewiring revived the electric fan I'm happy to say... I can idle the car for an hour in 90degree whether and the temp stays well below the "N" on the dash. Fan kicks on appropriately and will stay o after shut off.

I have also cleaned TONS of electrical connections, the contacts of every relay, fuse and ground point I have come across under the dash and in the console area. Much in crabapple behaves differently - much better.

So, my current question... The diagram calls for the White wire at the Idle Relay to connect to "IGN FEED POS 2, 3"... My question for now is,,, what the devil does that mean? Where do I tie in to connect that wire?

Anything else anyone can tell me about the Idle Relay (and anything that comes to mind) would be MUCH appreciated.

 

Last edited by JayJagJay; 08-23-2018 at 05:49 PM.
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Old 08-25-2018, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by JayJagJay
So, my current question... The diagram calls for the White wire at the Idle Relay to connect to "IGN FEED POS 2, 3"... My question for now is,,, what the devil does that mean? Where do I tie in to connect that wire?

Position 1 is what many would call the "accessory" position. Radio, windows, and certain other circuits, not related to the engine, would be powered-up

Position 2 is what many would simply call "ignition on" or "run". Engine and running circuits are powered up

Position 3 is "start"....the starter circuit is powered-up

So, the diagram is telling you that the circuit should be powered-up when the key is in 'run' and 'start' positions.

Where to "tie-in" is a different thing. I'll look into that later but f yo peruse other sections of the wiring guide the answer is probably already there.....perhaps in the "power distribution" section?

Cheers
DD
 
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Old 08-25-2018, 08:26 AM
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I don't have a 1990 schematic but my 1989 schematic shows the white wire to the idle relay coming off a connector that feeds the white wires to the ignition coils

Cheers
DD
 
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Old 08-26-2018, 11:20 AM
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Hello Doug and thank You!

I'll take a 20th and longer look and see if I can find this one (and possibly 2) connections for the Idle control relay in the schematic diagrams I have. In another thread,,, in a bit of a back and forth with Warren, I think what I am looking at is a faulty Climate Control ECU. The write up Warrjon provided simply calls for a new ECU... This does not make me happy because getting a "new" one on eBay (or somewhere) feels like a bit of a crap shoot. I was hoping and keeping my fingers crossed that IF I were to correctly wire the Idle control relay a result would be the needed voltage to the CC and Compressor relay. As it it now I get just over one (1) volt Not enough to turn the Compressor Clutch relay to ON...

My brain simply does not work well with electrical and wiring schematics... I get boggled and before long, confused and frustrated.... Can't say why.

Below is the scheme I've been referring to. wink wink - if ya care to look it over 😊😊😊

https://www.scribd.com/doc/69985811/...991-Elec-Guide
 

Last edited by JayJagJay; 08-26-2018 at 11:23 AM.
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Old 08-27-2018, 11:09 AM
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Hey Doug and all... So,,, in one of the figures in the schematic I see that there is a "white" wire that serves many many components in the vehicle when the key is in positions 2 and 3. Using a volt m meter I have found several places where the wire is hot when the key is in pos 2 and 3. Since I cannot find the original white wire feed that supplied the Idle Relay control,,, would there be an issue with tapping into the white wire,,, say by the starter relay,,, and feeding the Idle Relay directly, that way?
 
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Old 08-29-2018, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by JayJagJay
Hey Doug and all... So,,, in one of the figures in the schematic I see that there is a "white" wire that serves many many components in the vehicle when the key is in positions 2 and 3. Using a volt m meter I have found several places where the wire is hot when the key is in pos 2 and 3. Since I cannot find the original white wire feed that supplied the Idle Relay control,,, would there be an issue with tapping into the white wire,,, say by the starter relay,,, and feeding the Idle Relay directly, that way?

I don't see a problem with it. All roads lead to Rome as far as solid white wires go, it seems. In any case, we're talking about the control side of the relay (as opposed to the load side) which draws only a very small amount of power....so it's unlikely you'd be overloading any particular wire or circuit.

Cheers
DD
 
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Old 08-29-2018, 10:34 AM
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Cool. Thank You so much Doug! I went ahead and everything seems fine.

So, just so I have this clear in my head (I think)...

I have the green and white wire (one of them from the compressor clutch relay) going to one side of the SAV... On the other side (out) of the SAV is a BN or Black and Brown wire. That BN wire goes to the Idle Relay on the load/switch side,,, thru the relay, to ground... I am unclear about 87a and 87. Is 87 just unused In this case?

On the other side of the Idle Relay I have the white pos 2,3 wire coming into the control side and then OUT thru the BG Black and Green wire that is connected to both the starter relay (with a diode that I DO NOT have in line &#128552 and the neutral switch... If you don't mind,,, I am open to suggestions about the diode and it's placement.

I guess my question is,,, will the neutral switch actually be what controls a significant part if not all of this system? The trigger...? And,,, when the car is in neutral or park,,, does this mean that I can expect that the SAV will remain closed and only engage when the car is in gear when the A.C. system is running?
 
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