For my part, model railways even more years ago . . . replacing blown fuses with globe set behind a red "overload" bezel . . . limiting any short circuit current to safe level that protects both power supply and expensive locos. Went on to find it an even more effective tool in auto electrics and electronics, as you point out.

Thanks again for your timely reminder.
Well done mate,

Ken

 

Now I'm really confused !! I am getting full continuity everywhere (includes wires in all wiring harnesses, from cp7 to motor and from power on relay to battery) and when I started, pump would not run and did not blow the 30 map fuse. Then checked continuity from the main relay to the pump and get full continuity with ohms reading of .7 also from pin 87 to pump. Removed the connector to the pump and get full continuity through the motor between the two receptacles on the plug ?? Then put my 12V power supply positive (power) on the brown/blue side of the motor plug and the negative (ground) on the black side... Motor did not run ?? When I reversed + and - from the power source, motor runs ?? Is this running backwards ?? The plug with the brown/blue wire connected can only fit in one direction !! WTF ?????

 

This is correct you should have .7ohms from pin 87 to the pump and all other wires/ What you DO NOT want is continuity from a power wire to ground.



This is correct the motor could be as low a 1ohm

Yes a DC motor will run backwards if you reverse the + and -, this how the windows go up and down.

 

[QUOTE=kenatofc;1645905]Hi Everyone, When I last left off, I was blowing the 30amp fuse below the passenger side console (1 of 2 ABS 30amp fuses). I have been told by several that I probably have a pinched ABS wire from the Accumulator to ?? so far, QUOTE]

You say it was not blowing the fuse when you started but in your first post you said it was blowing the fuse.

I'm confused too

Can you re-cap on the problem please.

 

At this time: I am getting full continuity everywhere (includes wires in all wiring harnesses, from cp7 to motor and from power on relay to battery) and when I started, pump would not run and did not blow the 30 map fuse. Then checked continuity from the main relay to the pump and get full continuity with ohms reading of .7 also from pin 87 to pump. In other words on the 30 amp fuse (under passenger side to pump relay), it is not blowing and motor is not running !!

 

Warren, et al,

Since the pump only runs backwards, may I now "assume" (never generally a good idea and particularly so for a Jag. Lol) that the pump is bad and needs to be rebuilt or replaced ??

Also, do the two brake lines in and out from the pump under pressure (if it's not working) ?? And if so, may I just raise the pump above the height of the car, detach the hoses (of course, protecting the engine bay for any stray brake fluid) then plug the hoses ??



Ken

 

Warren, et al,

My "assumptions" were correct. I was able to remove the pump without any problems or spilled brake fluid. Bench tested and it runs backwards ok, but after 5 or so seconds, the 12 volt power source overloads and shuts off. Probably the cause of blowing the 30 amp pump fuse !! Am having a friend who is in the business of rebuilding pumps have one of his techs look and see if they can fix... Will get back to you later.
Ken

 

Sounds like something has jammed in the pump, good find. hopefully this will fix your problem once and for all

 

My friend who is in the pump repair business came over and advised me that if a motor ran in one direction and not the other, it was NOT the motor !! He said it was impossible only to run in one direction, it's both or none !! He also said it had to be in what the pump was running through it was blocking something. So we used my air gun on both in and out openings. Did not see anything pop out but when we hooked it up again, works great!! So now to put everything back together again and see what happens !!
Ken in WV

 

Hi to all,

Bad day in flat rock !!! Got everything back together after replacing the pressure switch, check all wires, running tests and viola, everything worked great. Called one off the car clubs I belong to to let them know I would be joining them for a cruise today. Needed gas so went to the filling station early so I could come back home and finish packing, etc.

I noticed some smoke coming out of the hood when I reached my very steep driveway and decided to get it up and back into the garage. About half way up, lots of smoke and noises in the engine compartment. Had to use a towel to open the hood after unlatching. Oh hell, the engine was on fire !!! Got my dog out of the car and used my extinguisher in the trunk and put it out before it reached the fuel lines and 18 gallons of new high test !!. Took some photos and reported it to my insurance company and advised them that since it was blocking my driveway, I would tow it up and put in the garage until the claims guy could see it. So hooked up my truck to the carl and was doing fine and almost to the top when the brakes completely went out on the truck, including the emergency (WTF) and we started moving backwards immediately. By the time I could jam the truck into Park, the Jag had already wrapped the back end around a tree. Now I am really sick !! Called the insurance company again and while they took sympathy, that did not do me much to change the knot in my stomach !! OK, they will probably total it now !! Will try to get some parts off it to sell as it has 5 new tires, chrome rims, great seats, etc that has made this car a show winner.

So now the question is to not replace it because I have a 02 XKR, or to buy another xjs and fret over it so that it runs well.... I'll be thinking but not doing anything this year.

Feel free to chime in..

Ken in WV

 

That is bad news, or you could use it as an opportunity to look around and buy an XJS in good condition, they are still around and come up for sale occasionally here in Aus.