Is there a compelling reason not to use cork gasket material to make my own inlet manifold gaskets, instead of paying $9 each for the genuine Jaguar part?

Thanks,

John
1987 XJS V12, 62000 miles

 

No offence but why would one toy with the idea, let alone put the labor in when they are $9 each? Time is money and doing it twice is twice the time....well worth $18 for the ease and peace of mind.

 

Yes. Cork won't stand up to the exhaust pulse that comes up from the air rail ports.

Buy the new style (6L) gaskets, and they will last forever.

For any gasket on the engine, always buy the new style gortex gaskets. They are vastly superior in every way.

Dave

 

Well, I'm glad I asked before I cut out 12 gaskets!

There are 12 ports, 12*9=$108 plus shipping and all that (from Rock Auto Parts) vs. free, since I have the gasket material. But I suspect JT was thinking of the newer 2 piece gaskets. Looks like those are available for about $40 each (Intake Manifold Gasket - Terrys Jaguar Parts - NNA3020BA). I can't tell from the description if those are gortex or not...are all the 2-piece IM gaskets gortex?



The air rail has been removed and the ports blocked on the manifold, but I understand that the gasket would still feel the heat.

Thanks guys!

John
1987 XJS V12, 62,000 miles.

 

Whoops! I was thinking per total side not EACH runner...on second thought! Build'em your self! Just don't use cork...I do make alot of my own gaskets for themostat housings and such.....there are alternatives out there to cork that would work fine at a fraction of that cost..

 

John, I am down here and things are different, but I remember in my Jag Parts Management days the 12 individual inlet gaskets were only for the carby cars, due to access issues, and the EFI inlet were a one piece per side, and originally a "pinkish" heavy fibre type material.

The 6ltr gaskets in my parts book are NNA3020BA, and 2 are required per engine.

All of my V12's have NO inlet gaskets, just a nice neat bead of Hi-Temp RTV, 10+ years now and no leaks. Same for the camcover "gaskets".

 

i'm with grant on this one!
hi-temp RTV, any place but the head gaskets, and i use just a little bit on the outer block edge of the head gasket.

 

YEP.

A V12 that dont leak oil, it is a beauty to behold.

RTV, the invention of my lifetime. Then add to that the drinking time I now have available, win, win.



10.30AM, and already 42c, it going to get nasty.

 

Well, I've already ordered a intake manifold gasket, but since it cost about $25 per side, it might be some cheap paper thing. If that's the case, and I should know in a day or so, I'll have a go with the RTV.

Seems that I read a post recently about the parts having to be very very clean for RTV to work. I'll have to hunt that one down.

Is there any "settling time" for RTV, or can the engine just be started-up as soon as all the parts are in place?

Thanks,

John
1987 XJS V12, 62000 miles

 

OK.

SUPER clean is the required, and I mean solvent clean. I use p/pack carby cleaner, and really be a PITA about it. The manifold and the head.

A bead of RTV about 3mm wide will suffice.

Sit the manifold on, slide it down CAREFULLY, so as to note a "squish" of RTV all round, STOP, leave it set up overnight, then fit and tighten the nuts FIRM. This set up basically forms a gasket, and if tightened down too soon the product is "squished" out of the joint, and you will need to start all over.

There is no need to tighten the manifold nuts "super tight", coz all that time you took cleaning has allowed the RTV to adhered to both faces, so a perfect seal is achieved.

Taking your time here is paramount.

 

Ok, let me get this straight...after I sit the manifold on and note the "swish" of the RTV...do I let it sit overnight without putting the bolts on at all, just letting the weight of the manifold itself press down the RTV overnight?

Thanks!

John

 

Yes.

That is what I do.

Look carefully at the inlet manifold once slid over the studs and ENSURE it is sitting "square" to the head face. Sometimes a wooden wedge/rolled up rag/ whatever is handy, between the inlet manifold and the camcover is needed to bring it square. Failing that fit 2 or 3 nuts on the inner face to do the same task, just not too firm so as to squash the RTV out of the joint.

I know all this sounds complicated and scary, and the first time is always a tad daunting, but once you slide that manifold onto the studs it will become very clear.

Time is the key here.