I'm gonna do it. I'm going to get rid of the silly egg
separator that Jaguar added in a feeble attempt to keep
the throttle body clean of oily gunk brought in from the
camcover pressure relief port.

I plan on abandoning the line that takes whatever oil it
does collect, back to the sump. I'll now keep an eye on
the catch can and rely on it to catch all of the oil.

What do I do with the hose that branches off the hose that
feeds the egg? It branches off after the camcover port,
but before the egg separator. I'm not sure what it does.
Can I use a three port catch can and connect the camcover,
the air intake elbow and wherever this line goes all back
to the can, or do I really need to branch the hose off
before it continues to the catch can?

If I replace all the hoses here, I can do away with the
awkward elbows which have seemed to flatten out over the
years.

Thanks for any tips and advice.

 

just do it.

 

Use a three way can? I don't know what that hose from the camcover connects to before hitting that egg

 

I now know it's the Part Load Breather. I need to maintain a vacuum line there too.

I'm either going to get a three way can or use a tee to split the vacuum line leaving the can towards the throttle body.

Once I get the camcover hose to the can to get the air cleaned up, I now have to route that air to two places. (1) the intake elbow and (2) back to this Part Load Breather.

Not sure the three way is set up properly, so I may go with a cheaper two way and use a tee.

 

seeing as pre-HE Jag V12s natuarly leak oil from ,many places.

mostly rear main ROPE seal, i now run a positive vacuum in the crankcase, no leaks anywhere except rear seal1

altho im not familier with the AJ16 engine crankcase breathing system!

but let us know if your modification works out?

by the way is your car supercharged, they have more problems with oil leaks because of pressure build up.

 

Took a bit to get started, but I have started.

I ended up purchasing a Mishimoto MMOCC-RB can. The reason I did this is that the hose from the camcover is 5/8". The $20 eBay cans have barb that seem to be much smaller. I did not want to be forced into choking off the hose.

i haven't received the can yet, but I have verified that it comes with 5/8" barbs. I'll run a 5/8" hose directly from the camcover to the can. I plan on extending a tube inside the can to force the incoming air to come in lower. (I'm adding vent holes to the pipe in case the collected oil blocks the bottom of the pipe). I will also shove some stainless steel mesh in there to help condensate the oily air coming in.

From the out side, I need to tee off the 5/8" hose going to the inlet manifold elbow because I need to feed a smaller 5/16" hose that goes directly into the intake manifold itself. I found one tee which was priced at $56. It seems that I'll just find a reducing barb, or barbs that will get me close enough. (Hose clamps should help me get from an easy to find 3/8 to snug up to the 5/16" pipe.)

That should be it. I'll keep this thread posted.

 

Is there any benefit to adding a PCV valve in line with a catch can? I found a valve that would fit a 5/8" hose, I'm just not sure there would be any value, or if I'm in fact creating a choke point.

I would add the valve after the can, somewhere between the can and the tee I mentioned above. That valve should theoretically never get gummed up with oil if the can does what I think it'll do. The valve will only prevent air from going in the wrong direction, right?

 

I am learning...


The can came in. The 5/8" barbs are actually 1/2" barbs that screw into 5/8-18 threaded holes. Since the Part Load Breather and the intake elbow have restricted openings, this shouldn't be an issue, however I will have to start with a 5/8 (or even a 3/4") hose from the camcover outlet. Finding a barb that gets me from 5/8" to 1/2" shouldn't be a big deal.


The problem will be finding a tube that I can insert into the end of this barb fitting. The ID is 0.425". I'll see what I can find in home depot. Regardless, I'm going to build a baffled wall inside this can so that the air coming in won't immediately short circuit itself back into the outlet port, which is right next to it. I'm going to force the air to go through as much of the can as I can.

 

Finally got the damn thing installed!

I had some troubles.

I bought a Mishimoto MMOCC-RB can because I wanted something that I could open and with a large orifice. I ended up losing one of the two barbs that thread into the top of the can. Good luck finding a barb with a 5/8"-18 thread on it. Yikes. I ended up modifying an AN-10 threaded fitting, but I had to upsize to a 3/4" hose, which wasn't a problem since the camcover barb on the AJ16 engine could easily support that.

Anyways, in order to mount the can, I used a "punched flat bar zinc plated steel" from Home Depot. Cut a nice 5" piece off, bent it 90 degrees in my vice and bolted it to the bolt that holds the oil and transmission dipsticks in place. It's a solid connection to support the weight of this aluminum catch can.

I have included a picture of it. I will add more tomorrow regarding what it looks like. I needed a 90 degree 3/4" hose (DAYCO 80411) to keep things tidy, but then I didn't have the room to 90 it back out towards the can, so I needed a plastic elbow. (DORMAN 47063)

It should be easy enough to slide on and off if I need access, which I think I will when I need to get to my oil filter.

I will monitor the hose between the can and the intake elbow to see if it remains oil-free. I will periodically update this thread for anyone who cares.

 

Two more pics.

I can't seem to find the pictures I took when I constructed a metal baffle wall inside, which I JB Welded to the inside. I then shoved in a stainless steel scrubber (something you would use at home to scrub pots and pans, no SOS or Brillo, make sure it's stainless steel) and closed it up. That forces the oily air down, through the very porous scrubber and back up and out into the inlet elbow.

I was inspired by this thread in another forum. I did not bother with inserting the down pipe in the inlet side.

$20 Ebay Catch Can Made Better. DIY.

 

I had the "plastic egg" Jaguar set up on my 95 VDP 4.0 and I changed it to a two out let catch can that comes with a baffle in the can, no steel mash. The one 5/8" rubber hose runs from the throttle body outlet to the can. The other 5/8" hose run from the cam cover to the other outlet on the can. The small vacuum line coming from the EGR I "T"ed into the throttle body to can hose.
Bottom line is it works very well. I can't believe Jaguar wanted all that crap dumping into the throttle body or crank case via that cheap plastic "egg & dip stick" design "update".