Handbrake help please, the Workshop Manual instructions don't make sense to me.






When you unwind the caliber for there to be 3/4" spacing between the two pads faces, install the caliber and put in the retaining bolts, the bronze fork bit is just hanging in the air between the calibers. IOW, with that much space been the pads, the fork ends are nowhere near the indents in the calibers. If I follow the manual sequence and tighten the bolts and fix the lock tabs with that much space between the pads, forks look like they will foul the operation of the calibers. The manual states to adjust the clearance after the bolts are tightened, but the fork ends will either interfere or have to be manipulated into the indents somehow.

Can anyone clarify the sequence, or easiest way to put it the handbrake calibers in place.

Thanks

 

Add a picture of your problem. It will help a lot.
You put in new handbrake pads, correct? And bought new brass forks? They have to be replaced any time you replace handbrake pads.

 

Thanks, that might be the root of my problem. Didn't realize I'd need new forks, as well as the new pads. The side that I was having an issue with is where one of the handbrake pads had completely lost the friction material at some point, so the forks may have deformed as the caliber self adjusted to lack of friction material. Didn't have any issue with the other caliber where the pads were like new when I removed them. I'll order the new forks.

 

Yeah, the forks are designed to bend as the pads wear, still providing some, but not too much pressure to retract the pads when you release the handbrake.

 

I was eyeing putting the cage back in by the end of the three day weekend, but having to order the handbrake retraction fork has dashed my plans. Since it's a US holiday weekend, they won't even ship until Tuesday. I'm a bit bummed, but will persevere and do everything else I possible can while waiting.

 

Hi everyone, following along as I work on mine...can you please tell me which parts are the forks that have to be replaced. Are they in this diagram?

 

Part 18.

 

I would recommend 18 and 17 (and the pads 19)

Cheers

 

Thanks jal1234 and Mac Allan. I'll add 'em to the list.

 

At the risk of jinxing the next steps, I feel like a real Jaguar mechanic because I have successfully put together the handbrakes.

I was a bit surprised that given how long Jaguar has used this design, there weren't any really helpful youtoob videos on how to fit the retraction forks. One video I found didn't even have the fork tines in their slots, so I'm not sure what the point of the retraction forks would be in the scenario. I found some helpful threads searching the archives, but nothing like "Handbrake Fork Installation For Dummies". I still think the ROM is incorrect in its instructions because if you set the pads apart 3/4", I don't think you'll get the forks into place without damaging them.

For the benefit of others following this thread, this is how I did it:

Adjust the handbrake caliber (wind or unwind the two pieces of the caliber to adjust) so the pads are further apart than the width of disc, but less than the 3/4" called for in the ROM. The exact amount is a little trial error, based on the next steps.

Before you fit the handbrake calibers into the cage and on the main calibers, insert the fork tines into the slots on top of each arm of the handbrake caliber.

As you fit the handbrake calibers around the disc and eventually onto the main caliber, make sure to hold the tines in their slots, otherwise they will pop out as you maneuver the calibers into place. If the tines pop out, start over. The tension of the tines will hold bolt hole section of the fork away from where they will eventually fit on the main caliber, don't worry about this until you have the handbrake calibers in place on the main calibers. Be patient, and gently work the handbrake calibers into their spots on the main caliber, small increments are your friend. The arm section of the caliber will fit in more easily, while the other section will need to be torqued a wee bit to make it into its position.

The base of the fork will still be lifted away from where it will seat, so carefully insert the bolts through the handbrake lock tab plate, the fork bolt holes and the main caliber bolt holes, and patiently work the bolts and gently manipulate the handbrake calibers until the threads catch. Your goal here is to not let the tines pop out of the slots while you get the bolts through to the main caliber and get the threads to catch.

Tighten the bolts gradually, if you tighten only one side, and the other side threads haven't caught, one of the tines might pop out of its slot. Torque to 20-25 Nm paying attention to where the bolt head will line up to the lock tabs so you can properly engage the tabs.

I'm sure to anyone who has done this before, it's child's play, and gets easier each time. If you've never done it, there is a bit of "wait, what?" to it. Hope this helps someone else.

Cheers

 

That is exactly how I did it, Mac!

 

On a long thread like this, I think it's important to confess when you've done something wrong (or in my case, stupid), so you can hopefully prevent someone else from following your folly. One of the problems with dragging out a big project like this is that it can be easier to forget the sequence of putting things back together, etc. I recommend that you take photos at various points of the project to have a reference if needed later.

So that said, best laid plans, etc. Thought today was the day to put the IRS cage back into the beast, but better half needed help with something that meant a late afternoon start. No worries, I thought...

I raised the car, and maneuvered the cage into place. Lowered the car to the lower stops of the QuickJack then carefully raised the cage, and was carefully adjusting the everything so I could align the mounting bolts -- then I have one of those 'am I forgetting something' moments. Ignored that feeling for a bit, then took a step back... and 'Doh!' I realized that I had forgotten to put the over-axle pipes back into the cage. So I raise the car up again to the higher stop, lower cage and pull it all back out.

Hey stuff happens, just press on. I remember having to roll the cage forward (output shaft pointing down) to get the over-axle pipes out of the cage, so just need to repeat that sequence in reverse. I remember it being a bit finicky, but just needed to be patient. No matter what I did, I couldn't get the pipes to fit in the cage. Running out of time, I had to just call it quits for the day.

Long story short, patience isn't a virtue when you are idiot. I thought I remembered how to put the over-axle pipes back in, but I clearly didn't. I was trying to put them through the holes in the front and back of the cage, but later after quitting when reviewing the pictures I took at the beginning, they only go through the holes on front of the cage. If I had reviewed the photos of when I first removed the cage, I would have known that, but instead I wasted a bunch of time and a bucket of sweat.

Kind of embarrassing. Oh well, hopefully my foolishness will help someone not make the same mistake.

 

I'm totally mystified. I thought once I was putting the over-axle pipes in the proper way, I'd make some progress. But for the life of me, I can't get them to go all the way in. I know I didn't do any dismantling prior to get the pipes out, The only thing I can think of was that maybe the set up I did to be able to roll the cage forward was higher off the ground, or I was able to roll it further forward than today. I can get the pipe in until the front hits near the hole on the front of the cage, but the hanger hits the springs and won't let me rotate the pipes upward. The QuickJack doesn't lift high enough to put the pipes in after installing the cage, so I've got figure out how to put them back in.

OK, coaches, any advice on how to wiggle those bas****s back into the cage?

 

Let's see if this is of any use for you:

 

Based on those great photos from @alpecsa , it looks like disconnecting the half-shafts at the disc, threading the over-axle pipe through, and then reconnecting the half-shafts might be the easier path.

 

I didn't disconnect the shafts, if I remember correctly I had the cage on stands about 30" tall, if I am not mistaken, they went from the side, in a 90 degree position and twisting them as they went in... Hope it make sence

Alfredo

 

Take the rear mufflers off the pipes, and you'll have no issue getting them in.

 

Thanks to Alfredo's photos, I tried disconnecting the half-shaft at the disc on one side to see if that would work. What a treat! Over-axle pipes in, and on their hangers. Didn't have to roll the cage forward, and only had to lift the cage up a bit with the ATV/Motorcycle jack.

This was made easier because I discovered when I first took the half-shafts off, I could get a socket with two extensions on each nut as it was rotated to the top, going through the shocks from the side of the cage. Attached to my DeWalt impact makes it fast and relatively easy work to undo the half-shaft. Once out of the way, the over-axle pipes are easy to put in. It's also safer than having to roll the heavy IRS and cage forward.

Whew!

 

Well done. Just want to say thanks to Mac and all those who helped him...you're all helping me too. I'm not at the reassembly stage yet but am taking notes.

PS. I'm doing mine because, having sat for some time, the brakes are stuck (I'm surprised and ashamed) and the diff appears to be leaking (in three places, ahem). Also two rear shocks have let go and are weeping.

 

@Mkii250 While you have the IRS and cage out, make sure to renew the rubber sections of the over-axle fuel pipes, particularly the high pressure (RH) side. Unless you relish having to drop the cage again when they start leaking. 3/8" High pressure fuel injection hose and clips are relatively inexpensive, the only thing that is tricky is being precise about the length of the rubber section when cutting the new hose, and being mindful of how the screws of the clips will end up once installed. Be very patient on the re-install of the pipe ends because the brass threads are too easy to foul and if you mess that up... well, just don't mess that.

Cheers