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Sorry, the videos showed up later. I posted regular videos first and they didn't show up, then I just posted the links. Vids deleted, links still in previous post. Won't let me delete this post.
Last edited by Metaxalone; Mar 1, 2016 at 05:14 PM.
Leave the hood on. Put blankets on the fenders, drain fluid, remove any hoses in the way, remove fan assembly, remove waterpump, clean, and reinstall. About 2 hr job the first time. Bleed air out of system. While fluid is out, replace both thermostats. I had one go bad and replaced one, then the other acted up. Might as well do while fluid out, replace belts too.
Just wondering about the easiest way to get to the water pump. Do I have to take the hood off, or will I be able to leave it on while doing this. It looks like I can leave it on but I just want advice on the easiest way to do it.
Also it was said, " thermostats," so there is more than one?
Ok, I was doing so reading and came across some info about the thermostats. Something to do about a little vent hole in the thermostat for one reason or another, and was told to get the ones with the little hole as appose to the one non-OEM ones without the hole. Are there different ones? If so, what is the item number that I can cross reference with amazon or my local auto stores....
Both thermostats the same, or are they different item numbers?
You need the holes! If no holes, take a 1/8" drill and make a couple.
But....
Equally as important....
The thermostats have to be the right length.
There's a disc on the back end of the thermostat that diverts coolant flow when the engine is cold. If the thermo is the wrong length the rear disc won't properly close off the bypass passageway and the cooling system won't work right.
This is my water pump correct? For some reason when I search, it brings up 2 different ones. This one I see more of.
Also, are both thermostat housings the same. I ask because there seems to be 3 different gasket configurations. A 3 hole triangle one. 4 hole square, and a weird bigger one with other holes in it for coolant flow.
Last edited by Metaxalone; Mar 4, 2016 at 09:10 AM.
If you pull a search on this site for thermostats, I posted the Stant #s used in the V-12. I have moved what I have and it would take hours to find them now ( getting ready for swap meet). Pumps are single to multiple pulleys, order by VIN.
This is my water pump correct? For some reason when I search, it brings up 2 different ones. This one I see more of.
Looks OK off-hand but as mentioned there is usually a VIN breakpoint or engine number breakpoint
Also, are both thermostat housings the same. I ask because there seems to be 3 different gasket configurations. A 3 hole triangle one. 4 hole square, and a weird bigger one with other holes in it for coolant flow.
This is my water pump correct? For some reason when I search, it brings up 2 different ones. This one I see more of.
Also, are both thermostat housings the same. I ask because there seems to be 3 different gasket configurations. A 3 hole triangle one. 4 hole square, and a weird bigger one with other holes in it for coolant flow.
That one looks correct for your year. Single pulley is what you want. If you look at your thermostat housings, you will see that they are NOT the same both sides. One has four bolts and one three, They are the smaller ones of the three you mention.
This site has all the detail you need: Find Jaguar Heritage Parts Online | Jaguar Heritage Parts UK
Look for the parts and diagrams under this section of XJS stuff. Although your VIN is earlier, the data will still be correct for all but the ignition electronic stuff and the aircon control system. "XJS from (V)139052 to (V)179736"
Greg
Attached is a pic of the auxiliary air valve, commonly known as the AAV, this attaches to the drivers side manifold at the rear. See that little bolt (half unscrewed) sticking out the AAV? Thats where you adjust the idle, It governs the amount of air allowed into both manifolds. Hence the one manifold sucking harder than the other on idle. These AAV's can also be a cause for grief, they have a little piston in them that varies the amount of bypass air allowed for a cold engine, they often get stuck and you have a high idle. Can be fixed, anyways plenty for now, let us know what you find.
You mentioned bad running. Does it rev up easily? Driven it yet? It may just be low idling... But a few blocked injectors and it will sound pretty ill, the PO of my car said the timing also sounded out, was just blocked injectors.
This could EASILY be the culprit. I have not had to replace mine yet but I found an 89 XJS with my friend that had been sitting for several years. We got it running again but idle was a mess. This part has a spring/piston set up that if it isnt used it will not move back and forth properly and can easily freeze up from sitting. The idle would race and come back down over and over again. Some people have luck cleaning the hell out of it but I didnt and just replaced it- something we all will have to do eventually as this valve tires out.
Thanks for that info. I have already established that it is the lack of coolant circulating in the engine to where the sensors aren't picking it up. I posted videos of how the engine runs and idles with and without coolant. I'll keep your info in mind if things happen in regards to that down the road.
I have ordered a new water pump, and other components for replacement to do with the cooling system. The water pump with take a while to get here though.
As for my other issue that I posted, I still need to know what these two wires do. When plugged in they cause the engine to die, and when unplugged, the engine is fine at idle and is able to rev and drive provided there is enough coolant circulating to do so.
One side is coming out of the main loom. The other looks like is going somewhere in the engine bay. Trace that one and tell us where it ends up, please.
Greg
Apologies, I did say I would do that. Trace out where the wires went, a couple posts after Doug responded to the last time I posted about them. I had forgotten all about them. I will trace them out once I get a day off again.
Ok so I ordered my water pump. Took it a while to get here and I put it on the jag. Took me to long to replace the pump. All because of the tensioners on 3 of the belts... Took forever. Anyway, replaced the pump and since I let her set a lil while without starting her, after I replaced the pump I started her up. Ran just fine.Couple of days later I went to start her and it was the same old up and down throttle and dieing when you even think about touching the accelerator. SO I was like, what the hell, I'll replace the pump and the fuel filter. Replaced it with one that will keep up with up to 450hp.
Still acts the same. Some one said that they think there is a sock filter in the box under the battery and that I should take it out and clean it.
Is there a sock filter in the box under the battery?
Ok, to be honest, when I changed the fuel pump, the fuel from the sump(under the battery) flowed very well lol. So I don't think that has anything to do with it. There is a fuel flow issue though somewhere... Any ideas? Like I said before, every once in a while, the Jag will run perfectly fine and I can rev it up and drive it. 90% of the time is is like it is starving for gas with up and down idle and dies when you press the pedal or put it in gear.
The hunting up and down at tickover, engine warm, if you still have it, is the AAV sticking open, as someone explained above. As for fuel flow have you:
Blown though the lines from the filter to the rail
Same for the return lines
Changed the sump tank filter and cleaned it out
Changed the main filter and ensured it is the right way round
Checked the throttle potentiometer is OK
Cleaned the resistor pack connectors and injector loom connector to the main harness
Possibly if all the above OK, changed or tested the B bank fuel pressure regulator to see if that is intermittently failing
Changed the plugs, rotors, Dizzy cap, HT wires, checked the amplifier wires and connections to coil, ECU loom, dizzy bottom
Checked the amplifier itself, lots on the forum about how easy ti is to change the functioning bit inside the Lucas amplifier
Any of these could start malfunctioning when the engine gets a bit warm. If the bits on your car are the unchanged from the factory, quite likely, then many of these items will be on their last legs, and none of tem ruinously expensive to buy. The AAV is very expensive, but there is loads of stuff on here about fixing it yourself for no cost.
Greg
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