Picked up a 96 XJS 4.0 yesterday with about 107k miles. It is a very good runner and good cosmetically. I started on the 200 mile drive home. Made about 3-4 stops and visited friends for dinner. No problem at highway speeds (80 - 90 MPH) After dinner, I filled the tank with fuel and proceeded to drive the last 100 miles home. Within about 10 miles (highway) there was a burning smell. Like clutch or brake lining. It was very strong by the front right wheel which was very warm to the touch. I assumed it was a frozen caliper and called AAA. I didn't hear any noise from the wheel and it rolls by hand without resistance. I will check it out better today in the daylight. Am I on the right track?

 

Hi Lyonsfin

Same thing happened on my Car but my Car nearly caught Fire, there was smoke pouring out of the Wheel Arch

So basically I just pulled off the road, rescued all my belongings, including the all essential 'Mars Bar' which helps in times of stress

Then sat myself down by the side of the Road and waited for the Car to burst into flames

Unfortunately I didn't have my Cell phone, as that would have made the 'Mother of all Selfies'

Or provided some great footage for one of those 'Clip Shows'

As luck would have it She didn't catch fire but the passenger Wheel had got so hot that you couldn't touch it

And it took hours to Cool down

Fortunately I was quite near home, so managed to limp back to base and needless to say from that day on

I always carry a Fire Extinguisher with me

So Yes! it could be a 'Stuck Caliper' but that's not necessarily the Case, especially if you bought the Car from a Dealer

Who may have gone right through it, given her a Pre-Sales Check, including replacing the Brake Pads

Which of course could also have been done by the Previous Owner

Who like me before I wised up, was under the impression that all you really have to do is take out the Old Brake Pads

And Slip the New Ones in

This is not always the best way to go because depending on where the Brake Pads were made the 'Tolerances' can vary quite a bit

So while the New Pads might have been a 'Snug Fit' (same can apply to worn ones) when they heat up

The Metal Backing Plate can start to expand

Where as a result. The Brake Pads can jam in the Calipers, to such an extent that it took me well over an hour

To manage to get the Brake Pad out, with the aid of a Chisel and a FBH and this was on another XJS

So following advice from 'Greg' whenever I fit New Brake Pads or even refitting Old ones, I get my Angle Grinder

And Skim a few thou or maybe 1/2mm from each end of the Metal Backing Plate (just the backing plate and NOT the material)

So they Slide in nice and easy with a light push from one finger and should also be removable by pulling it out with just a finger and thumb

If you ever change the Brake Pads on an XJS, whatever you do don't ever lever the Caliper Pistons or the Brake Pads Back

With a lever or Screw driver, without having the Caliper Bleed Nipple Open

Because if you do then it can send Brake Fluid back up into the ABS System, where any Microscopic particles of 'Crud'

Can completely wreck the workings of the ABS which if that should be the case, can have your Car take a dive to the right or the left

And Spin you off the road 'Ask me how I know' (or rather don't)

In which case you would also have to rebuild the Master Cylinder Actuator which is something that could spoil your day!

Have a look at Page:9 on my 'Cherry Blossom Restoration' Thread and here is the link to that page: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-122634/page9/

 

yes, if the car sat for awhile this is not uncommon. My advice...replace both front calipers and rubber lines. Remove all fluid from the master and replace with fresh fluid and then bleed. Then consider doing the same at the rear.

1996 would have a traditional master cylinder and vacuum booster with an ATE ABS pump. These components are very robust and tend no to suffer from chronic issues like the 88 to 95.5 ABS ABS system. The sword of Damocles like fluid push-back issue doesn't exist in this case however it's never a good idea to push back dirty fluid on any systems regardless the type. For those who are not replacing the calipers, they simply need to open the bleeders, push through some clean fluid, then slowly push the pistons back into the caliper with the bleeders still wide open.

 

Thanks everyone. I think it will be short trips til I get the brakes sorted. Gonna try to get the indy dealer I purchased it from help out with the expense.