I spent most of today installing a Bulldog security system. It does not work. I only wanted the lock-unlock part to work This reduces the number of wires that are to be connected to only 5. The online installation instructions said the locks on my car are type 'B'. Connections were as follows:
1-Red to +12 volts constant.
2-Black to ground
3-Blue/black to unlock wire to locks. This wire is Orange/red on the car.
4-Green/black to lock wire to locks. This wire is Orange/blue on the car.
Below is probably the source of the difficulty:

5-This is a double wire: Purple and Purple/Black which are joined at a fuse and come out as a single wire, Purple black. Instructions state this wire goes to 'source voltage for lock and inlock'. I have no idea what or where the source voltae is!
Another instruction shows this wire going to ground. I tried grounding it to no avail.
I hope some of you can shed some light on the problem. Possible Sarc as he recommended this system on an earlier post.
Thanks in advance to anyone that can help.
RagJag

 

@RagJag

1-Red to +12 volts constant.
2-Black to ground
3-Blue/black to unlock wire to locks. This wire is Orange/red on the car.
4-Green/black to lock wire to locks. This wire is Orange/blue on the car.

--> All correct

Purple and Purple/Black --> should be grounded. You can connect it to wire 2 above for simplicity

A couple of troubleshooting questions......

1) When you press the lock and unlock buttons on the remote, does the LED on the remote light up ?

2)If answer 1) is yes, then...... when you press the lock and unlock buttons, do you hear a relay click coming from the bulldog control box ? (Answer should be yes)

If not, you can try "training" the remote... to do this..... (from the manual)

"Programming a new remote
Press and hold button #1 for 10 seconds. Within 10 seconds press any button
on the new remote"

2) Where are you connecting it to? The security harness on the right hand side of the trunk ? or at the central locking module on the right hand side of the passenger footwell ??

3) When you manually ground the Orange/red or Orange/blue wires in the car loom, do the doors lock and unlock ??

 

Sarc, I connected the Bulldog device to the wires I found next to the lock module in the passenger side kick panel. I may have not have gotten the correct wires and I also may have needed to 'train' the remote which I didn't do.
Do you connect ro the wire in the trunk?
Question #3. I didn't manually groung the wires to try this. Should they lock-unlock when grounded? The Bulldog instructions said to apply 12volts to the wires to identify them with type B locks. Grounding them implies they already have 12volt power coming from the car at all times and the OU and OR wires just complete a circuit to ground. Is this correct?
I will wait on your response to try again and thank you for your help.
RagJag

 

Do you connect ro the wire in the trunk? --> I've done both, it shouldn't matter. There's just far more room to do it in the trunk compared to the passenger footwell. If you are connecting into the door lock module to give you +12V and ground for the bulldog (which is ok to do) the +12V battery power wire is purple and the ground wire is black/pink. Beware, there is also an ignition live +12V on the car door lock module (white) ..... obviously you don't want to get your +12V from there

I may have not have gotten the correct wires and I also may have needed to 'train' the remote which I didn't do --> Ok, I'll wait till you either confirm or deny that, after training, when you press the buttons on the remote the LED lights up and there is a relay click sound coming from the bulldog box.


Question #3. I didn't manually groung the wires to try this. Should they lock-unlock when grounded? The Bulldog instructions said to apply 12volts to the wires to identify them with type B locks. Grounding them implies they already have 12volt power coming from the car at all times and the OU and OR wires just complete a circuit to ground. Is this correct? --> Correct. The 12V is behind the load (The door lock solenoids) so all you are doing is completing the ground...... again, you need to perform this manually to rule out a problem with the cars locking module.

 

Sarc, Great information. I will get back to the locks this afternoon if I can. I will post the results. Many thanks for your help and patience.
Robert-RagJag

 

Sarc, I just finished installing the Bulldog lock system again, this time in the trunk. As you said, a lot more room back there. I found the orange/blue and orange/red wires and wired them up as you instructed. I did not get any click from the box by grounding them. This fact may explain why I don't get these things to work. I did get the locks to lock by touching the wires to one another. The light is on in the remote when pushing buttons. I did try 'training' them. No joy by anything I can see to do.

I may have a defective lock module. I had to get a pop-a-lock guy to unlock this car when I first got it. No lock would turn at all with the key, not even the trunk lock. They are working today with the key but I can't trust them if the top is closed.
Is the lock module even used to cycle the locks with the Bulldog system?
Cheers, Robert-RagJag.

 

@RagJag

We're getting a bit out of sync here....... let me go through EXACTLY what I want you to do to confirm whats wrong.

1. Disconnect the Bulldog module completely

2. Make sure the car is UNLOCKED. Take a spare piece of wire, and connect it to the orange/blue wire, then connect this wire to a known good ground. The car should LOCK --> did it ?

3. (Assuming 2 worked and the car is now LOCKED), take the same piece of wire, and connect it now to the orange/red wire, then connect this wire to a known good ground. The car should UNLOCK --> did it ?

I'm asking for the simple step by step stuff because I'm confused by the following ....

"I did get the locks to lock by touching the wires to one another" --> meaning you connected the orange/blue wire from the car to the orange/red wire from the car together (and not to ground) and the locks did something ?? If this is the case, that means one of those wires has been permanently grounded.... this could be because your car door lock module is indeed not working. Unfortunately you need the car door lock module because it is basically translating the signals coming from the door lock switches into motor commands for the door lock solenoids. The bulldog can't take over these functions. The control modules come up frequently on ebay, ie JAGUAR XJS 89 96 CENTRAL LOCKING CONTROL MODULE DAC4862 | eBay

 

Well, Sarc, I do have this device wired properly and the locks will lock and unlock by shorting the appropriate wires to ground. The problem is obviously the Bulldog itself. I am not going to worry about it any more.

I have another problem I need to address now. The Ignition switch will not turn past 'ignition' to 'start'. The key was somewhat difficult to push into the switch but now almost falls in. All the dash warnings come on as they should. I didn't wire the ignition disable wire to anything. Do you have any idea why this happened? It seems that the security module may have a way to disable the ignition switch. I don't know if that is true, but I will install an auxillery starter button on the solenoid wire to the starter rather than getting a new ignition switch.
Thanks again for all your help.
RagJag

 

@RagJag

Ok, at least it appears the cars locking module is working, and perhaps you got a faulty bulldog unit. Thats a pity, hopefully you can return it at some point and get your $ back or get a replacement. I've had 3 now on various cars and never had any issues with them.

If I understand correctly, your key will physically not turn from ignition to start, correct ? (It's not that you turn the key to start and nothing happens........)

Option A)
As far as I can see from the electrical diagrams there is a "key lock solenoid" which is operated from another module called the "gear shift control module" It appears this is some kind of safety interlock circuit that will only allow the car to be started when it is in "Park"..... is the trans in "Park" ?

Option B)
Meanwhile the security module provides a ground path for the starter relay so if you were getting the key to turn to start but there was no starter action, it would point towards the security module or wiring, but it sounds more like you are having issues with Option A

 

Yes the tranny is in Park and won't start in any other position either.
It seems to be option A. In any case I am installing a spring loaded start switch directly to the starter solenoid so as to eliminate either option A or B preventing me from starting the engine. This switch will very discretely placed in the cabin and be fused at the source, which is the left firewall bolt connected to the main battery cable. I am sure you know which bolt that is. I solder all electrical connections to eliminate the possibility of fires from poor connections.
I could buy another ign. switch or other parts to fix these problems but I am not a fan of little electrical gadgets that keep me from driving my cars. Gadgets we did quite well without for the first 80 or so years of auto history.
As for the ignition switch, I read something a week or two ago on this forum that the switch has a flap that closes when the key is removed. My switch has that flap but it is not closing now which causes the car to determine the key is still in the lock. Therefore the warning 'ding' stays on until I close the door. Not a big problem but somewhat annoying. lol
Some nice day when I am at loose ends I may get another Bulldog and try again. I can't return this one because I snipped all the unused wires off the plug for installation neatness. Bulldog instructed me to fold them out of the way.
Cheers, RagJag

 

Sarc, the ignition switch little hole flap came back over the keyhole today and the 'ding' is gone, thankfully. I put a little lube on it and will see if that keeps it working.
Happier now. RagJag

 

Just another day in the life of an XJS :-)

Thanks for the offer, but Keep your bulldogs remotes..... you will come back to it again and get it working I'm sure

 

Okay.RagJag

 

Rag, I would suggest you abandon the aftermarket security system idea completely and get your stock module working. I have had 3 95/96 forum members from JagLovers who thought their DPP 1050 security module was dead, send it to me along with their remotes and I have programmed it for them. All you have to do it disassemble the center console and add a valet switch, or just a toggle switch and program a remote (or remoteS). If you are interested I can pm you the instructions.

As far as the key cylinder is concerned, they tend to do that, a little grease will fix the problem. No need to re-wire anything.

The 95/96 XJS's are the most reliable of all the XJS's ever build. Mechanically and electronically. If you can get things to work originally intended, you will have trouble free ownership. You might need a solder gun to redo things here and there, but I would suggest you will be happier recomissioning rather than re-wiring and "modding". Just a friendly suggestion.

Good luck :-D

 

Spike, Houston, we have a problem. lol Seriously though, I would be glad to get my original locks working. I don't have any interest in trunk pops, headlight flashing, horn blowing or panic button. I wear my 'panic button' in a holster. Just would like to have remote locks. My driver door lock seems to be a bit stiff when I move the paddle. I may need to get in there and lube it or at least look to see why. I only have one remote for the car but it is broken and inoperative.
When I ground the lock and unlock button they do work.
If you would be so kind, though, do send the instructions. I am quite accomplished with tools, including soldering guns, having repaired and maintained my own trucks, autos and motorcycles for some 55 years.
I am in the process of switching the seat portion of my seats because the drivers one is looking a little more worn than the passengers. This car has been driven by a single person most of it's life so that is why.
My next job will be to find out why the switches for the top are not working. After that the cruise control isn't working either. I may have to go to a dealer for that.
Being retired, I enjoy working on cars so I am happy with this one. Besides that, she is so beautiful.
RagJag

 

Rag,

You will be pleased to know that you can override all the "alarm" functions in the stock alarm system (meaning no immobilizer, no sensor that will make your car go off at night, and no start inhibitor). When Jaguar build these 95/96 they where going to originally include a "valet switch" on them that would allow you to A)program your remotes on your own and B) put it on "valet mode", which is simply keyless entry, all other alarm functions disabled. For some reason they made a last minute decision to not include the switch, but the connector for it is under the console of every 95 and 96 XJS, maybe some 94's as well. Some people plug in a valet switch from a XJ40 or you can cut the switch of and splice the wires (only two) into a cheap toggle switch. I will get you the instructions later today.

As far as the convertible top is concerned, you are engaging the parking brake in order to put the top down, correct? You won't be able to unless the parking brake is engaged. otherwise your button might need some cleaning.

:-D

 

Hey guy's let me know how this all turns out. I am following with interest, as my central locking (amongst other things) does not work either. The fuse blows every time you try to operate them, but then I've also got the electric mirrors to sort out. However all this is after I find the leak that leaves a swimming pool in my pass side footwell, and to a lesser extent, in the drivers side, fit the new seat covers, and the dash wood. Wow old jag ownership is fun .............. :O)

 

Sounds like you have a short somewhere. Has someone removed the door panels recently or the trunk panels? One of the locking mechanism wires may be touching ground

 

I'll be removing the door panels soon, to replace the wood trim, so I'll check them out then. In the meantime, I'll take a look at the trunk lock, and check the connections there. thanks for the info !

 

Magravet. THe swimming pool in your passenger footwell is probably caused by the AC condensate draining down there instead of going on the ground. THe tube from the evaporator surround is blocked. Go under the car and run a clothes hanger wire of other probe into it. This tube is only .3 inches in diameter. Dont push the wire too far into it because you don't want to damage the evaporator. I really don't know if you could puncture it, but it pays to be careful. A lot of water ran out of my tubes. The right side was wetting the carpet and now doesn't.
Cheers, RagJag