OK
I think I now understand, it was not clear to me before that the actual shaft was what was moving. That part in your photo is the driveshaft that turns the wheels. The bit in your photo is bolted up to another short shaft that comes out of the differential. Assuming the four bolts that hold the two together (one of which is in your photo) are not loose, then:
IF, repeat IF the movement is at the INBOARD end of that shaft, if you jack up that side of the car and get someone to pull the tyre in and out, you should be able to see where exactly it is loose.
If it is loose where the shaft enters the differential (ie the large roundish object in the middle of the axle) and you can SEE where the movement is occurring, send a photo or make a diagram showing exactly what is moving against what. It may be loose because (as Doug said above) something has failed INSIDE the differential, or because the collar-like casting that holds the shaft INTO the differential has come loose.
In the attached photo, the shaft that may be moving in and out from the differential is marked in blue. If that can be seen moving in and out and the collar is tight to the differential and is not moving, then you have a bearing failure in the output part of the differential.
The collar which holds the shaft and just might be loose is marked in red. If it is, you will see it moving when the wheel is pushed and pulled. If this is loose (unlikely but possible) then get a spanner and tighten up the 5 bolts holding it in place.

 

I will post some better pictures or a video once I get someone to help me with moving the tire while I make the video.

 

Here is a short video. It could not be longer as the entire file was too big.

 

a

 

Yes

 

The U-joint looks solid in your video. Look at Greg's picture - I think it's the red marks.

 

That sure looks like the diff ouput shaft in need of attention and it is not a bush - it may have just come loose or the bearings could be shot, but the only way to figure it out is remove the drive shaft and pull it out but it is a whole mess of work - far more easily done with the rear cradle on the floor, not impossible in situ but thaat wouldn't be my first choice. These can be challenging to get right too from a preload perspective - you used to be able to buy assembled shafts but I don't know if that's still possible, I've never torn one of these down somebody else may have better news.

I'm sure somebody with the necessary experience will be along soon.

 

That is the differential output shaft that is moving, not the collar, and whatever the bearing arrangement is internally is the problem. To fix it requires the driveshaft to be undone from the output shaft, the brake caliper that side to be removed and the output shaft collar undone and the shaft and bearings can then be removed. Rebuild kits are available, and someone on here will have done it. In my view the car is not safe to drive in that condition.

 

Found these doesn't distinguish the year so perhaps they will work.

Output Shaft Assembly LH (None Dana)
Output Shaft Assembly RH (None Dana)

 

Depending on the actual cause, it's potentially possible to examine and do the initial disassembly in situ. The approach as per Greg's comments above. The only difference being that it's slightly easier as you have outboard discs so there is no need to remove the disc as it's not located at the differential end. Of course, once the actual problem is identified, it may be necessary to lower the cage, but you may able to resolve it in situ.

As mentioned, I wouldn't drive with that level of movement in the output shaft.

I'm still hugely disappointed that any mechanic / inspector couldn't easily see and advise you exactly what was the issue, rather than misadvise you as they did.

Good luck

Paul

 

If it proves to be the bearings etc and that looks likely that diff needs a very very thorough flush to remove all metal particulate, depending how much lateral play exists once the drive shaft is removed it could warrant deeper inspection. I concur with the don't drive it memo.

 

That's exactly what mine was doing.

As someone mentioned, don't drive it. Not really safe.

I came across the problem while investigating some very odd steering/cornering behavior. The half-shaft flopping in-and-out was upsetting the rear wheel geometry

Cheers
DD

 

Glad you posted this. For most owners this ^^^^^ is the way to go. They just plop into place as complete assemblies....um....er....once you get everything far enough apart to remove them! I've done several over the years.

Rebuilding the stub axles isn't a 15-minute thing

Cheers
DD

 

Doug,
Is this something that I can do in my driveway? How long did it take you to do? Are there any parts that were pressed on and will be a headache to get off?
Anything that you can add to what is required will be helpful.
Thank you,
Jomo

 

Great find, Ben. That is almost certainly what he needs, and relatively simple to fit.

 

Well, calipers and brake rotors must come off. It's doable working on your back...but not pleasant. Plus, to remove the brake rotors the lower arms must be allowed to swing wayyyyy down....which means elevating the car wayyyyy high. Higher than a lot of people would be comfortable with.

Most people just remove the entire rear suspension for this type of work. It's easier in the long run, IMO

The stub axle assemblies themselves are easy to install. Remove bolts, pull the old ones out, put the new ones in, reinstall bolts.

Cheers
DD

 

Doug,

Its a 1995 car, so Outboard brakes, lucky man.

Doable in the driveway, car PROPERLY supported will be mandatory.

Once the dud shaft is out, the internals of that unit will need to be cleaned thoroughly. Any metal bits from collapsed bearings etc left behind can and will, destroy the Diff unit very quickly.