Hello,

We have a 1995 6cyl Convertible XJS. When we got it, the back seat area was halfway through the conversion to a package tray. I am attaching two pictures of the way it looks now.

The previous owner removed the seats, and took a sawzall to the shoulder belt pillars...there is no turning back now.

The top was catching on the rear seat - this is one way to solve it suppose.

Anyway, the back seat is pretty worthless as we all know, and I am looking forward to making a wooden insert which will either be carpeted or upholstered in tan vinyl.

Has anyone here actually done this work before? I have seen several converted XJS conv's out there on ebay and I have even seen examples of the aftermarket kits that you can buy. I think we want to go with one or probably two opening hatches that will utilize the hollow areas under where the seat bottom goes.

If anyone can share any thoughts on how to attach the wood assembly into the car that would be helpful. I know I can figure out ways to do it, but I wanted to get some feedback here as well.

Also: as you will see in the photos, the seat belt pillars have been sort of roughly chopped off and the thinner sheet metal where the top of the back seat hooks on has also been cut and rolled down slightly to allow the window to pass by it as the top goes down. While our planned modification will facilitate easier lowering of the top, I am puzzled as to why this top seems to be catching. Any thoughts on that? It goes up and down fine and looks good in either position.

Finally, do you think it would hurt to remove any more material from the older rectangle channels where the shoulder belts mounted? I would ideally like to cut the whole back area sheet metal flush with the two side interior panels that hold the rear speakers. What do you think?

Thanks for any insight or suggestions.

 

Do you see any marks or scratches on the canvas or the glass to indicate the exact location of any contact? You can operate the top up and down with somebody staying in the back seat with a flashlight to confirm where this is happening.

In regards to the pillars, may be you can chop them down to the projected wooden insert's highest point, so they'll be hidden inside (yes, you'll lose some room), but then you'll need to refinish that upper corner area left by the removed portion of the pillar.

I have toyed with the "interior trunk" idea, myself, but somehow, the thought of chopping off those pillars, plus the fact that there's no going back kind of make me think it over. Probably it isn't really a big deal, but I think I'll wait until I first see somebody go through the project with success.....

Cheers,

 

I have seen this conversion done successfully on the later convertibles. I would say the key is to take your time on the planning stage to make sure you have taken into account everything so the final product is what you want.

I have seen 1" by 1" wood used to frame the box and this seems to be about right for doing the inner framing. Sounds like the project is started and no turning back so just take your time on the planning side and you should be very pleased with the results. As far as securing the framing to the floor etc. I would use a combination of correct size screws and glue. Be very careful with the placement of the screws so as not to hit lines etc. on the underside. I would also seal the underside of the floor where the screws come through to keep moisture from getting in. Be frugal in the amount of screws you use at it should not take that many to secure the box with glue like Gorilla glue. I would suggest using a carpet that matches the carpet in your car(as close as possible) to cover the compartment and lid as this will be the most durable and look more original. I would look at the factory photos on the older cars to get ideas. Keep in mind the higher the box sits above the floor the less you will be able the recline the front seat backs.

No room on these anyway to use the rear seat under most circumstances so why not at this point do the conversion. Plan well and be fearless-it will turn out great.

 

thank you for both replies.

The most important question I have is about the structural integrity of the car if we decide to shorten the pillars where the old seat belts were. I am not even sure how much has already been removed, but ideally, I'd like to remove another 1" - 1 1/2" to make it flush with the other panels where the speakers are.

We are also contemplating including a pair of 4" square speakers in the rear plywood for better treble clarity.

We will keep the forum updated. thanks

 

The top dragging on the top of the pillars can be fixed by shortening the steel rods the belts rest on. Easy job if you have a welder.
RagJag.

 

ragJag, when you say steel rods that the belts rest on what do you mean? this car, as it sits, has hollow steel channels about the size of a 2x4 that used to have the shoulder belts attached to them. the prior owner sawed off the tops of these channels, removing the top shoulder belt anchors. he then made two vertical cuts in the thin sheet metal between the pillars where the top of the rear seat clipped on and rolled the sheet metal down a few inches like a sardine can. we do not know what his final intentions with the rear seat area were, but he told my brother that he was planning some type of package tray conversion.

my specific question is with regards to those two channels where the seat belt anchors used to be attached. did the prior owner compromise the structure of the car by cutting those channels? does anyone have a picture of the rear seat removed on this vintage of XJS so we can see what he actually cut off? finally, would it hurt to remove a few more inches from the top of the channels to make that whole plane even with the trim panels that hold the rear speakers, them build our platform and rear panel? thanks

 

95XJSconv., I was addressing the question as to the dragging top when lowering it. The upholstered cap can be pulled upward and off the metal pillars. Under the cap you will see a 5/16 steel rod in a u shape that the belt slides on when being pulled out. Cutting the rod off at each end about 3/8" and welding it back on will solve the problem of dragging.
Sawing the pillar off to make a speaker box or back seat storage may not compromise
the body stiffness if you don't go down below where the pillar metal connects to the quarter-panel steel.
Cheers, RagJag