Another deliver.

 

anyone know if the factory lattice rims have a clear coat on them. and they are aluminium right?

 

Yes, Aluminum

Not sure about the clear coat. I don't think so. I think it was just a single stage paint, high grade (epoxy of some sort?), with a slight gloss. It's pretty tough to strip, I can tell you that!

Cheers
DD

 

A bank is passenger side ...sitting from in the drivers seat....on the LHD jags right?

 

if I pull the abs pump fuse and abs ecu fuse will that stop the pump from running? Will it affect anything else? As long as I have my front brakes still working is all I want.

 

Ok update.

Replaced the part. Tried to move the car again. Nothing. Natta. All I can do is put it into park and neutral. No drive in any gear or reverse.

So now trying to think of what to look at next.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

And yes I have checked the fluid level. I'm going to check it again once the engine is cold again. I was surprised it took 9 litres according to the ROM.

 

So checked the fluid level using the cold measurements on the stick. It's not even showing any fluid lol. So to be safe is when the stores open Saturday I am going to grab some fluid, a siphon kit, and hopefully a filter too.

I am going to se show much fluid I actually can take out. I know the torque convertor holds quite a bit..how much?

The amount giving in the ROMdoesn't it include what would be in the torque converter? 9.1 liters total. Or is that before the convnverter?

Anyways enjoy your easter friday. Hopefully you guys have some answers for me.

Cheers

 

 

thanks. So many hoses. I cant wait to clean the engine bay up and delete crap lol.

 

Did it TAKE 9 liters? You put 9 liters in yourself, already?
If so, I think that that should be enough to move the car...

Also, about the brakes. If it were me I would remove the vise grips holding the brake line,,, use a bolt (fine-ish thread that just barely fits into the hose) and thread it all the way into the pump/reservoir end of what remains of the brake line. THEN, for added measure, clamp it down with a small worm drive type hose clamp - making the bolt in line the plug... LEAVE the relays and let the pump build up pressure behind the bolt...plug... Then,,, just work with the front brakes.

 

As I've been told/taught - WAIT until you have it properly running (or very close),,,,, or you'll beeeee sorrrrrreeeeey....

 

I actually did that the next day. It was a pain trying to screw the bolt into the hose up in that spot. I dont have one of those clamps by I did get the vice grips on it even tighter than last time.

Pumps still working so that's good thing.

I've only put a litre in so far. I think what happened is that the modulator failed with previous owner and it was burning the transmission fluid. Then he passed before he could fix it. Makes sense with the issue. There no grinding or clunking or any other sounds from the tranny so must be low.on fluid. I'm picking up 10 litres on Saturday. So I'll suck out what I can and the refill it one litre at a time til it's good and try to move the jag again. Ugh lol. Love it though.

cheers mate.

 

If you start to draw fluid out thru the dip stick tube and you're not finding any fluid down there, or very little, might be a good time to just drop the pan and change the filter,,, clean out what's in the pan and examine, and reseal and button everything back up...? That way you don't have to drain the fluid again when you change the filter.

Next time I remove my pan (soon, I have weaping leaks) I intend to put a pressure fit drain plug in for easy draining...

 

I was reading about those. How do you install them though? Do you have to cut a hole in the pan?

I was watching living with a classic video of changing the filter. Most of the time is removing the transmission mount.which if you drop it might as well replace it.

 

Found the answer. Very neat. On the list lol

 

Eventually I want to put in a 4spd auto or 5 spd manual. 4spd probably as it would be easier.

 

Hopefully someone will fill in the ocean that I don't know BUT,,, once removed there is a section of the transmission mount/isolator that can be deleted on reassembly. It's the section that incorporates the mount to the pan,,, making it so you need to undo two things to get to the one (the pan and bolts in this case)... There is a plate of sorts that connects it all up. Grant advised me on deleting.

There is a good chance that once you are in there the PO or someone else working on the car may have done this already. I understand many have deleted this set up.

 

I doubt the previous owner did anything but smoke in it lol. It is completely stock and all orginally hence why I'm replacing lots lol.

I think I know which bracket you are talking about.

I'm trying to avoid removing anything that involves removing the exhaust. It's actually in good shape but all the connections are rusted tight. I've removed the clamps and tried removing it but won't budge. I'll eventually be putting the exhaust exits in front of the rear wheels. I've done this before on other vehicles and lve the look. I'll probably chop it off once I'm in the spot to drop the rear end since it's got to be removed to get the rear end out.

 

So I sucked out what I could. Was about 3 litres. Before I sucked it out it was still below the low level on the cold side of the dip stick. So now I just put 4 litres in. I'm just waiting a bit for the fluid to settle then I will check the dip stick again. And then I'll go 1 litre at a time if needed until I get full on the dip stick...cold side.. then after that I'll get the engine warmed up and cycle through the gears with foot on brake and then check the hot side of the fluid and add if needed.

Hopefully just low fluld in conjunction with the modulator was the issue of no drive in any gear.

I'll report back later.

 

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