No 12v to the socket. I just went through everything to see where lights work and not work. Only place is the dash (warning lights work) signal light indicators dont. That light by shifter. That's it. Something I havent check is all the fuses. So maybe I'll do that. Maybe ones blown?

 

So these leds work....

This style replaces the 4 courtesy lights and 2 trunk lights


and this one replaces the dome light....story on that...so went to pull it out and it was broke etc etc. So spent the last few hours gluing and then soldering...needless to say I have a functions done light again...

now whenoi open the door I can actually see. I went with cool color.

First pic is all the lights on.




2nd is just dome light.

 

I think that they all work off the sidelight switch, but if lots of lights are out then worth checking the fuse, and if no go look at the wiring diagram. Check the cigar lighter too, that fuse may also power the lights, I forget exactly. But if the light illuminating the cigar lighter does not come on, then it's looking like that part of the circuit is dead, so either a fuse or a connector.

 

I was looking at the diagram and yes the cig light is on same wiring. And that light I believe is out as well. So I'll check the fuse.

 

What fuses are for these? The fuses under glove box are labeled and make sense.

 

Nvm find it under the drivers dash. I checked the fuses. They are all good. Orginal looks like it. So not a fuse problem

I suspect a bad ground

 

I posted this on your OB reply too Rescue:
If OB's ideas do not do it, it will be because the pads are rusted into the discs. In this event, you can try a few emergency-type things:

• get the retaining pins out, and hit the pad metal part sideways away from the disc (ie to retract the caliper piston) with a cold chisel and a BFH, if no go:
• undo the four driveshaft bolts, this loosens the disc, then lever the disc about/hit it sideways with the BFH to in effect use the disc to lever back the pads
• if you can undo the caliper bolts, first remove the handbrake calipers and hit the caliper to bash it free of the disc

__________________

 

Thanks greg for more ideas. I got the retaining pins from the driver side out, those pads do wiggle a bit. It's just trying to get a grip on then to pull them out. The fronts were kinda the same way just I had more room obviously. I sprayed everything again so hopefully they got a little more freed overnight.

I also sat in the back seat when I was changing the rear courtesy lights out yesterday. Man there is no room back there for adults lol. I'm 6' 2" and my head was just touching the roof. Good thing I had the seat out already lol. Have to say those even though it was tight fit those rear seats were very comfy lol.
Fingers crossed I have a productive day today.

 

I wouldn't mess with those steel lines with the poor access and strange angles faced with the cage still in the car... If you follow those lines, go/look over towards the rear LH/Drives side wheel well-ish area, you will find a soft rubber section of brake line. Easier to access and OK if you destroy it in the process of removing it. Once that is undone you don't have to worry so much about sending bad fluid up the wrong way thru the braking system... I hope it's not too late. The bleeders are a PITA to get to, too.

If I was you I would just get a pair of snips and cut that soft tub and keep it moving. It's something that really must be replaced soon, now, anyways. (I could be wrong but I thought you intended to drop the rear???) If what you're doing is just to be able to move the girl around so you can work on it, undo soft line? Thing is, with the brake tubing done up,,, when you do hit the brake (and you will need to), that might shoot a unpadded piston(s) out of calipers, or re-stick the pistons, locking things back up, when you move the car. You could snip the hose and force a screw/bolt into the sending end of the rubber hose, with a small hose clamp to close it up...? I would (and think I did just that). Then just use you new working front brakes for stopping til the rears are done.

Those steel lines, might be salvageable... And it will be a much nice-r gig back there if that isn't on your list of new things to source this time around if they twist, strip or shear off. That's just me. Much "easier" to work with all that, cage down.

 

Coming in late so I may have missed something

What are your plans for the rear brakes? Are you intending to just replace the pads?

Or are you gonna rebuild/replace the calipers?

If you plan on replacing the calipers anyway, go ahead a loosen or remove the caliper bolts. This will allow the wiggle room to help loosen-up all those rusted-together bits. Actually, you can probably remove the calipers with the pads still in place, once you break the rust between the pads and the brake discs.

Opening up the bleeders may help, and there's no reason to not open them, but I strongly suspect that the caliper pistons are also rusted and stuck, in which case it's the rust holding up progress, not hydraulic pressure

Cheers
DD

 

Plans is just to free up the rear brakes so I can move the car around around. I'm planning on dropping the whole cage.

 

Well got all the retaining pins out. Also got one pad out on the passenger side. I just sprayed some more penetrating oil. I can spin the rear tires more freely now. I'm gonna go have breakfast and come back in an hour or so.

Pic of my setup and work area.

 

To clarify if I cut that rear brake line i will only lose the fluid in the rear of the system. The front will be ok correct?

 

2 out. One from each side. Top is passenger

 

Well I cut them. After I used some vice grips to pinch it off. Just a few drops of fluid came out lol.

 

Got the front brakes bleed. Took awhile lol. One man bleeder kit helps a lot.

Also three in 10l of gas.

Just having lunch then I'll put the wheels back on and see if she'll fire up for me.

 

Well it started fine. Runs rough but not a thing.

So it's not shifting. I still have the cover off so I can see the transmission cable moving and the gear selector moving but nothings happening in any position.

I think maybe vacuum lines? I'll wait till she cools down a bit before I see if I can find something.

 

Hi Rescue

Hopefully I'm not too late but if you try and Start her up or even turn the Ignition on with either the Rear Flexy Cut or the Rear Brake Pads out

Then you will almost Certainly Burn Out The Brake Pump, even if the Front Brakes feel like they are working

If your driveway is level then you would be best to roll her out and then Chock the Wheels so She can't roll away

 

I havw no choice but to move it. But it didnt move anyways. Lol
How can I tell if its burnt out?

Got to see why it's not shifting. I think it's the vacuum thing on the tranny

 

Hi Rescue

If you've Burned out the Brake Pump, then you won't hear it running and trying to prime the system when you turn the Ignition on, also the ABS Light probably won't go out although that could be also due to having the Rear Brake Pads missing and you'll probably wreck the pistons in the Calipers as well