XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

Rescue's Official Build Thread - 88 XJS V12 Oct 12 2019

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Old Mar 31, 2020 | 03:26 PM
  #261  
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Originally Posted by Greg in France
Understood.

Leave the plate and put a bit of softwood between it and the jack pad.
gotcha thanks.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2020 | 10:01 AM
  #262  
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Morning all.

Got the front seat out. Here is the emergency brake mechanism. Pretty rusty. Gonna give it a spray and let it soak awhile.



 
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Old Apr 1, 2020 | 02:48 PM
  #263  
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Got my led and the rest of my front brake parts in today. Like 10 minutes ago. Lol. But got the garage cleaned up lots.

Not sure my plans for tomorrow but hopefully I can get the front calipers and everything back and bleed tomorrow so I can start working on freeing up the back brakes.




hopefully they all fit. I will report back which ones do and dont. Except for dash ones which I will not be doing for awhile lol. But this is for all the interior ones.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2020 | 04:32 PM
  #264  
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Originally Posted by Greg in France
I would place them just aft of the big bush, rather than in the middle of the arm.
Yes yes yes... Them things could be rusted thru,,, in areas you can't see... Be careful, Res!!!
 
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Old Apr 1, 2020 | 05:13 PM
  #265  
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all correct lol
 
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Old Apr 1, 2020 | 06:23 PM
  #266  
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So since your lug nuts are 1/2 x 20 unf, and I think course thread, would the metric version of course thread work?

Finding it hard to find mag seat lugs in the proper size. I have seen tonnes on ebay but I'm not paying almost 300 dollars for 20 lug nutz.and yes I need all 20. But if I can use the metric version there ar slots of those available.

Ideas?


 
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Old Apr 1, 2020 | 06:57 PM
  #267  
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Originally Posted by Rescue119
So since your lug nuts are 1/2 x 20 unf, and I think course thread, would the metric version of course thread work?

Finding it hard to find mag seat lugs in the proper size. I have seen tonnes on ebay but I'm not paying almost 300 dollars for 20 lug nutz.and yes I need all 20. But if I can use the metric version there ar slots of those available.

Ideas?


Check with these guys. They're great!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/402101082763
 
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Old Apr 1, 2020 | 07:09 PM
  #268  
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Originally Posted by JayJagJay
Check with these guys. They're great!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/402101082763
Like I said very expensive.


 
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Old Apr 1, 2020 | 07:25 PM
  #269  
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Found these. We'll see how they do when they get here. Worse case I return them. And I dont mind they are all locking. Just better not lose the key lol.


 
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Old Apr 1, 2020 | 07:39 PM
  #270  
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Originally Posted by Rescue119
Found these. We'll see how they do when they get here. Worse case I return them. And I dont mind they are all locking. Just better not lose the key lol.

I believe the barrel (not sure of the exact word) that the shaft of the lug nut guides into is very specific... By barrel,,, I mean the diameter of the bolt hole on the rim that the lug nut shaft needs to jive with to properly secure the rim to the hub... It's a very precise fit.

If you use eBay,,, find companies that wreck and part xkrs xk8s xjss and other versions of the Jag and you will find what you need,,, all 20, for under 50 bucks.

Hopefully others will add to what I'm saying here and can/will recommend other Jag models whose luggs fit.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2020 | 11:59 AM
  #271  
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Originally Posted by JayJagJay
Yes yes yes... Them things could be rusted thru,,, in areas you can't see... Be careful, Res!!!
I always keep a jack under as well
 
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Old Apr 2, 2020 | 01:21 PM
  #272  
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Front brakes done! Yaaa... now to the scary back lol.

Havent bleed the front yet. But fronts are easy to bleed.


 
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Old Apr 2, 2020 | 02:13 PM
  #273  
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Ladies and gentlemen I present to you my rear brakes in all their glory lol.





 
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Old Apr 2, 2020 | 04:55 PM
  #274  
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Looking good.
I have / am adding Stahlbus Bleeding Valve to my 4 x calipers.
This makes bleeding and flush a simple one person job.

Front thread is M10 x 1.0
Rear thread is 3/8 x 24 UNF

Don't ask my how I know because I ordered M10 for all calipers and they did not fit the rear.
So I got a UNF bolt and that fitted.
I am sending back the M10 and they will be swapped for 3/8UNF... if I can ever go to a post shop again!

The good thing is once they are screwed in to the caliper that thread does not need to be undone again, the top of the valve is undone.
I have flush the system except for the rear calipers, the front was a breeze and when fitted to the rear so will they.
I have a rubber cap fitted to a air hose in to a bottle.

Open valve and pump.... when done tighten and job done.



 
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Old Apr 2, 2020 | 05:00 PM
  #275  
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Originally Posted by Dukejag
Looking good.
I have / am adding Stahlbus Bleeding Valve to my 4 x calipers.
This makes bleeding and flush a simple one person job.

Front thread is M10 x 1.0
Rear thread is 3/8 x 24 UNF

Don't ask my how I know because I ordered M10 for all calipers and they did not fit the rear.
So I got a UNF bolt and that fitted.
I am sending back the M10 and they will be swapped for 3/8UNF... if I can ever go to a post shop again!

The good thing is once they are screwed in to the caliper that thread does not need to be undone again, the top of the valve is undone.
I have flush the system except for the rear calipers, the front was a breeze and when fitted to the rear so will they.
I have a rubber cap fitted to a air hose in to a bottle.

Open valve and pump.... when done tighten and job done.


Thanks for the tips. The fronts are easy to bleed. But when I drop the rear cage I am definitely adding speed blenders since it's a pain as it is

I also have a one man bleeding kit. Works. Just a small bottle with a magnet on it and a tube lol.

What size lengths did you use?
 

Last edited by Rescue119; Apr 2, 2020 at 05:06 PM.
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Old Apr 2, 2020 | 09:44 PM
  #276  
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Little things that keep me up at night..lol

So I got the leds in. Firs flight i want to replace since i have it apart is the light for the shifter, put led in, doesnt light up...ok...other stuff to do...tonight I'm thinking maybe I just put the led in wrong. I'll grab a 9v and hook it up to confirm the pos and neg side....ok the led works must have just put it in wrong. Before I go back to the car I'm like well let's check the bulb that was in there.. low and behold it lights up...so now I'm guessing the wiring might have a bad ground? Or maybe a fuse is out but I doubt that since everything else works.

Anyway goodnight lol.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2020 | 10:32 AM
  #277  
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Morning all. Found out today I'll be working from home for the foreseeable future unless I get deployed. Nothing new there lol.

So hopefully I'll make some more progress today.

 
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Old Apr 3, 2020 | 10:46 AM
  #278  
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Rescue, I am nt clear if you are clear about what to do or not, so this is what i would do:
LED's are polarity sensitive, if the LED works, and the old bulb works, but they do not work in the socket in the car, check for 12v at the socket, then check/clean the socket connections, then if there are 12v at the socket, check there is an earth on the end of the socket earth wire.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2020 | 11:13 AM
  #279  
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Originally Posted by Greg in France
Rescue, I am nt clear if you are clear about what to do or not, so this is what i would do:
LED's are polarity sensitive, if the LED works, and the old bulb works, but they do not work in the socket in the car, check for 12v at the socket, then check/clean the socket connections, then if there are 12v at the socket, check there is an earth on the end of the socket earth wire.
Ya plan on doing that today. I need to get better at using my multi meter lol. Only lights that dont seem to work in the car is that one and the dash. Radio, rest of interior and all external ones work. But I need to stay on task of rear brakes. Easy to go down the rabbit hole with this car.

 
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Old Apr 3, 2020 | 11:45 AM
  #280  
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Originally Posted by Greg in France
Rescue, I am nt clear if you are clear about what to do or not, so this is what i would do:
LED's are polarity sensitive, if the LED works, and the old bulb works, but they do not work in the socket in the car, check for 12v at the socket, then check/clean the socket connections, then if there are 12v at the socket, check there is an earth on the end of the socket earth wire.

Well I got 2 retaining pins outs. Other 2 wont move. Also the emergency brake isnt on. So if I disconnect the pipe I'm am pointing too...main feed to rear brakes. Will that allow me to lever the pads / pistons back? Also I guess I need to plug it. Ay suggestions? Or should open the blenders on the calipers themselves?

 
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