Rescue's Official Build Thread - 88 XJS V12 Oct 12 2019
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The clicking you hear is the pad auto adjustment mechanism in the casing of the caliper arm ratcheting up so it holds the pads closer. All normal. The idea is that as the pads wear, eventually more inward movement of the caliper arms clicks over the ratchet, thus not allowing the arms to retract quite as far as before. The brass arms are to spring-load the caliper arms outwards, otherwise the arms/pads would flop against the disc and squeak all the time!
In effect the self adjustment ratchet has the same effect on the mechanism as your turning the screw head does. It is really doing up a ratcheted nut on the other end of that screw. People make the mistake of thinking that this mechanism adjusts the entire system; it does not, it only adjusts the pad to disc clearance. The free play on the lever must also be adjusted at the cable adjuster behind the driver's seat in the sill under the carpet, as I mentioned in my last post.
And finally, when you come to refit the cable to the calipers, you may well find it too short, when it was not when you removed it. Do not ask me why, but this works to get the correct length back: Ask Madame to get in the driver's seat, and press the lever button in, meanwhile you are under the car with a pair of grips pulling for all you are worth on the cable; then ask Madame, still pressing the button, to pull the lever up and down a few times, you still pulling on the cable. This returns the cable to where it should be, length-wise.
In effect the self adjustment ratchet has the same effect on the mechanism as your turning the screw head does. It is really doing up a ratcheted nut on the other end of that screw. People make the mistake of thinking that this mechanism adjusts the entire system; it does not, it only adjusts the pad to disc clearance. The free play on the lever must also be adjusted at the cable adjuster behind the driver's seat in the sill under the carpet, as I mentioned in my last post.
And finally, when you come to refit the cable to the calipers, you may well find it too short, when it was not when you removed it. Do not ask me why, but this works to get the correct length back: Ask Madame to get in the driver's seat, and press the lever button in, meanwhile you are under the car with a pair of grips pulling for all you are worth on the cable; then ask Madame, still pressing the button, to pull the lever up and down a few times, you still pulling on the cable. This returns the cable to where it should be, length-wise.
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Thanks Greg. At first it was terrifying but now that I know whats there and how it comes apart its actually not that bad.
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I was seriously nervous when I started out to rebuild my rear hubs, because there was absolutely nothing out there which clearly explained how the spacer arrangement functioned, and how to measure it, in setting them up properly. Once you know, it all seems wonderfully logical.
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Checked the local places and they would have had to order in the bolts/nuts. They don't carry anything unf. So I ordered what I needed from sng but from the US warehouse this time so we will see. Maybe be another week or 2. Ugh. Oh well replenishment for the bank account I guess.
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Rescue - what an excellent job.
Still look scare as hell, BUT just as you and Greg have stated... the hardest part is usually starting.
How much do you think you spent doing this work and the million dollar question what would a shop have charged?
Still look scare as hell, BUT just as you and Greg have stated... the hardest part is usually starting.
How much do you think you spent doing this work and the million dollar question what would a shop have charged?
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lol who knows. i know for parts im in just over 2k so far. but thats from the day i got it til now. and the bike i traded was worth about 1500 so if i were gonna sell it right now i would ask for about 4k. and thats still cheaper than non running XJSs around here. and ive done the hard work and not got into the engine at all lol. I expect to be in for about 10k to where it will be were I want it lol. its gonna cost me over 1k just to get 5 new tires. ya canada. and i bet i have paid for about 500 in shipping alone lol. most shops are 90 to 120 / hr labour so i wouldnt have bought a fixer upper. only thing I want a shop to really to is final prep and paint. everything else will be by me.
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The engine will probably need the cam cover gaskets doing, wires checked for cooked insulation, coolant hose set and thermostats, injectors and hoses refurbing, plugs, HT wires and, depending whether Marelli or Lucas ignition maybe, but not certainly, various bits like dizzy cap and rotor, amplifiers etc. But none of this is cripplingly expensive, you will be pleased to know, about the same as your tyre budget I would say.
The engine will probably need the cam cover gaskets doing, wires checked for cooked insulation, coolant hose set and thermostats, injectors and hoses refurbing, plugs, HT wires and, depending whether Marelli or Lucas ignition maybe, but not certainly, various bits like dizzy cap and rotor, amplifiers etc. But none of this is cripplingly expensive, you will be pleased to know, about the same as your tyre budget I would say.
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The engine will probably need the cam cover gaskets doing, wires checked for cooked insulation, coolant hose set and thermostats, injectors and hoses refurbing, plugs, HT wires and, depending whether Marelli or Lucas ignition maybe, but not certainly, various bits like dizzy cap and rotor, amplifiers etc. But none of this is cripplingly expensive, you will be pleased to know, about the same as your tyre budget I would say.
The engine will probably need the cam cover gaskets doing, wires checked for cooked insulation, coolant hose set and thermostats, injectors and hoses refurbing, plugs, HT wires and, depending whether Marelli or Lucas ignition maybe, but not certainly, various bits like dizzy cap and rotor, amplifiers etc. But none of this is cripplingly expensive, you will be pleased to know, about the same as your tyre budget I would say.
But as for everything else yes replace everything I can get my hands on. And taking off the front bumper and fenders (one has a dent anyways) it will really give me some room.
I would like to increase the HP..not by a lot but if I can get it over 300 which is an increase of 35 roughly as well a increase the torque with it a bit id be happy. My 2019 pacifica makes 297 hp so I would like to have more than that lol.
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The heads will be fine, do not worry. As to HP increases: the best value is an AJ6 super enhanced ECU and large throttle body kit. All bolt on and plug in, from these people:
aj6 engineering | For the Jaguar enthusiast
This absolutely transforms the car. After that there is nothing cost effective, or even effective, that you can do with an HE engine. A manual gearbox is another step change, as is weight a reduction programme. Things like deleting electric seats, fitting an ally radiator in place of OEM, all add up to better performance because of weight saving.
The heads will be fine, do not worry. As to HP increases: the best value is an AJ6 super enhanced ECU and large throttle body kit. All bolt on and plug in, from these people:
aj6 engineering | For the Jaguar enthusiast
This absolutely transforms the car. After that there is nothing cost effective, or even effective, that you can do with an HE engine. A manual gearbox is another step change, as is weight a reduction programme. Things like deleting electric seats, fitting an ally radiator in place of OEM, all add up to better performance because of weight saving.
Last edited by Greg in France; Jun 9, 2020 at 06:36 AM.
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The heads will be fine, do not worry. As to HP increases: the best value is an AJ6 super enhanced ECU and large throttle body kit. All bolt on and plug in, from these people:
aj6 engineering | For the Jaguar enthusiast
This absolutely transforms the car. After that there is nothing cost effective, or even effective, that you can do with an HE engine. A manual gearbox is another step change, as is weight a reduction programme. Things like deleting electric seats, fitting an ally radiator in place of OEM, all add up to better performance because of weight saving.
The heads will be fine, do not worry. As to HP increases: the best value is an AJ6 super enhanced ECU and large throttle body kit. All bolt on and plug in, from these people:
aj6 engineering | For the Jaguar enthusiast
This absolutely transforms the car. After that there is nothing cost effective, or even effective, that you can do with an HE engine. A manual gearbox is another step change, as is weight a reduction programme. Things like deleting electric seats, fitting an ally radiator in place of OEM, all add up to better performance because of weight saving.
I'm keep an eye out for a 5 spd tranny but wouldn't replace it unless the auto failed completely or i found a 5spd at a very good price.
Last edited by Rescue119; Jun 9, 2020 at 07:00 AM.
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Well hardware just shipped from SNG USA so we will see how long it takes to get here.
just a waiting game now. Unless those nuts from the UK show up first.
Anything else I should do while I wait to either the cage or while the cage is out is there something that would be difficult to get at with the cage in?
Even having the rear over the axle exhaust gone gives more room to access the cage which is nice and i will not be replacing as exhaust will eventually exit in front of rear tires.
just a waiting game now. Unless those nuts from the UK show up first.
Anything else I should do while I wait to either the cage or while the cage is out is there something that would be difficult to get at with the cage in?
Even having the rear over the axle exhaust gone gives more room to access the cage which is nice and i will not be replacing as exhaust will eventually exit in front of rear tires.
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You could check the fuel out and return pipes, as they may be corroded where they leave the boot and go over the axle each side.
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The engine ECU is on the RHS (US passenger side) up inside the strengthener/buttress. It ha a huge plug on it about 4 inches long and a loom about an inch in diameter ending at the plug.
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Oh and I checked those fuel lines and they are all good. Still covered in whatever under coating was applied.
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Send a photo if you are not sure.