As Bax said there are 2 screws that hold the ECM in in the first 2 pics they are circled in RED



This pic is looking upwards



This is my ECM, you can see the connector at right angles to the plugs this is the test connector.



You need to get a jumper wire like the ones used in PC's. Cut one end off and strip it and this end goes to the meter.

 

thanks Warren, i looked but could not find any situ pics.
Took a couple of close ups of my old ECU showing the two mounting tabs. (one slotted) and also a pic showing the test pins adjacent to the plug sockets.

 

I took those pics the other day while I had it out, the damn thing has failed again and without a circuit diagram I can find the broken track. I just bought another one from Europe.

Problem is there are so many different types and that all work slightly differently so getting the correct one was well difficult.

 

I pulled an ECU from a junkyard car today and will replace it when the outside temperature falls below 3 degrees of hell that is currently outside now.

I found a second in line fuse in the junkyard car so will look again on mine. I only saw one when I was in there before.

Other item I plan to check soon is the windshield wiper motor. I'll check to see if it is getting power. If so I'll see if cleaning the connections gets the unit operating normally. if not I'll have to look at getting into the steering column switch.

 

1987 was the change over year for the AC system and the ECM's are NOT interchangeable, you will need to identify what system you have. The DA Mk3 the LH knob pulls out.

The Delanair Mk3 was used from 1987 and was the unchanged until MY 1994

 

Warren,

My car has the Delanair III system. I am ecstatic that the blower motors are now working. Feel stupid (what's new?) that it was only a non-connected wire plug.

Onto to the windshield wipers. I got the motor out this evening - what a pain in the a#$. Will check to see if the plug has power. The plug has 5 wires: brown, red, green, yellow and white. Which one is the power? Hoping I don't have to get into the switch on the steering column.

Working thru the issues one at a time. Down to three, maybe four (cruise control).

 

Wiper motor out of cowling and disconnected from the plug. Put a circuit tester to the plug. Neg indicator at the #1 and #4 terminals. No pos indicator on any of the terminals. I am assuming this means my next stop is the switch inside the steering column. Any guidance is appreciated.

Second issue. My speedometer was working intermittently and has no stopped working. I think Greg, Warren or Doug mentioned something about possible fluid in the connector cable at the transmission. If that doesn't address the issue and I have to take the speedo unit out how do I do that without destroying anything? I am thinking that maybe the multi point plug in connector just needs to be cleaned?

 

Terminal #1 is 12 volts NOT negative/ground when the wiper switch is off #4 is ground for the park switch.

With the wiper switch in the OFF position you should have 12 volts on pins #1, #2 and #5 of the wiper motor plug.

Slow - 12 volts is applied to #5 and ground to #1 of the wiper motor.

All this is on page 86-15 of the ROM in the supplement Electrical systems.

 

Warren,

Re-tested the plug.
Circuit tester was connected to battery terminals. Probe was used to test the various spades of the wiper motor plug.

With the column switch in the neutral position I had the following readings at the plug:
#1: green light = neg (-)
#2: green, but not as bright
#3: no reading
#4: green
#5: no reading

I did not have a red light = pos (+) at any of the spades.
Red light does work, I tested it by touching the pos battery terminal with the tester probe.

 

At this point I'd go to the switch and see if you have voltage there. Near as I can tell you should have 12v on the light green wire, terminal #1, with the key "on"


Cheers
DD

 

Connections are always a possible culprit.

I don't recall the issue of fluid in the connector although it seems plausible that trans fluid could migrate into the transducer via leaky seals.

Failures of the transmission mounted speedometer transducer are common, as are poor contacts on the printed circuit at the back of the instrument cluster.

On my '88 the transducer wires fell against the exhaust pipe and burned. Something to look for.

Does your trip computer register miles correctly? If so, the transducer is OK.

Cheers
DD

 

And now the car won't start. it cranks over just fine, just not catching. it was idling and then died. It has 1/3 gas and the entire fuel system was replaced. arrrggghhhhh.....

Windshield wipers, left front blinker light, and speedometer are the only three things left to have it pass safety inspection. Oh, and of course it does need to start. Frustrating does not begin to describe the emotions with this car. Patience is running thin.

 

wiper motor plug neg green on #1 spade with key ON and switch lever in park position. Neg green on #1 and #4 when lever moved to std or Hi speed. I really don't want to have to take the switch out of the steering column. Ugghh....I looked up a pictorial on how to do it today. jeeez...... I really don't want to do that.

I think the non-starting issue must have something to do with the fuel pump even though it is new. Maybe a wire came loose.

 

It's been some time but I think you can reach the switch terminals for testing without removing the switch.

Remove under-dash trim panel

Remove lower (and possibly upper) plastic shroud that covers the switch gear. Hopefully you'll see the wires and the terminals.

If you have to remove the upper shroud.......

Loosen the two nuts that hold the column up. Loosening the nuts will let the column drop a bit which makes the upper shroud easier to remove

cheers
DD

 

Pulled the radio to get access behind the blower motor controls. I accidentally pulled too hard on a line and one of the little vacuum tube plastic (white)lines pulled out of the rubber connector on the other end. It took some rooting around back there to get things lined up again. I also found the second in-line fuse, says it is a 20 Amp. cleaned the contacts and re-installed.

I've got the lower cover off the steering column as well as the trim around the instrument cluster. Since I am working on the wiper switch I thought I'd try to address the speedometer issue at the same time. I've got all the screws out of the instrument cluster and surrounding trim. It won't come out easily. Am I missing something?

I've got access to the wiper switch now. Tomorrow I'll check for power to the various connectors.