OK, great.

I have to figure out where the Aux fuse panel is. The Main seems to be split between the drivers side (LH) and passenger side (RH). The only other fuse panel I know of is in the engine compartment on the left hand side above the wheel.

I'll have to poke around to figure out where the HVAC ECM is and look for the orange wire.
I have spare fuses (they are harder to find than I anticipated) so I am replacing all of them that I can find. I even got two complete sets of replacement large Red, White, Blue, Black (round and square), and Yellow (large and small) plus about two handfuls of Bosch square aluminum ones off of two parts cars as backups.

 

One more thing. My car is a 1987 but it was built in October 1986. I believe this makes it a Delanair III v. a Delanair II but am not certain.
I am reading thru the Kirby Palm book on this section. I sure don't want to try to take the blower motors out.

 

The main fuse panel is on the drivers side and aux fuse panel is passengers side under glove compartment.

 

I had the access panels reversed so it confused me. It all makes sense now. 12 fuses on the left/main, 5 on the right/aux. 5 more up in the engine compartment.
That was the good news.

Now the bad. Correctly identified the left and right hand side blower motor 50A fuses. Replaced both, along with all other originals. Still no joy with the blowers.

Everything else is working great though. Blower motors and A/c would really make my day though.

 

If your temperature control knob has the "Pull For manual control" feature, you have the MkIII system. Otherwise, MkII.

Cheers
DD

 

yep, Its a "Pull" for manual action so that confirms it. Thanks.

 

OK, more assistance needed.

I have changed out all the fuses and was able to get mirrors, door locks, and interior lights to come on but........

Still no joy with the blower motors. I read that there is a relay or resister somewhere in the system. Could this be causing BOTH motors to not work? If so what does it look like and where is it located? Are there other possibilities I need to look at? Thanks,

Brad

 

The blower motors have a darlington transistor to control fan speed and a relay for full speed. A common failure is the transistor then the fan will only work on full speed when the ECM switches the relay on.

Did you check the orange wire from the blowers that goes to pin 16 of the HVAC ECM - disconnect the plug from the ECM and check ohms to ground from this pin, I would expect somewhere between 8-12 ohm. If this is ok then the ECM or ECM inputs is the problem.

The orange wire is full speed from the ECM and switches BOTH blowers on, it is the ONLY output from ECM to blowers that is common.

 

Warren,

I went to a local classic used car dealer (always has MB. BMW's, and Jag's) and asked him about the blower motor. He pulled up a diagram that showed a main relay under the air duct on the drivers side (LHD) scuttle panel. There is no such relay on my car. Maybe he pulled up a diagram for an earlier model.

On my car on the passenger side (RH) and above the air duct is a thin black box with two multi pin white plastic connectors. It is held onto a bracket with 5 small bolts. Is this the ECM you are referring to?
Both white plastic pins are 15 point (I counted twice to be sure) The top one has two orange wires. The bottom one has one orange and black wire in the second to end position.

 

The ecu is where you describe but it is only attached by a couple of very small screws and l am sure more than 30 pins on the two plugs.
I don't have the link but there is a full test procedure document online. Search "delanair MKIII introduction pdf." If you do run through the tests be absolutely certain not to short pins or your ecu will be toast.

 

yes, the attaching screws are small. I counted 5. The white plastic connectors have 15 wires and connecting points each for a total of 30.
I don't have any test equipment other than a circuit tester.

 

You may be looking at the small countersunk sockethead screws Brad. They are not the ones you need to undo for removal. In fact it can easily be tested in place only need a multimeter and chiropractor afterwards.
Pins are numbered 1 to 45

 

OK, I'll check it out when the sun comes up. thanks.

 

I forgot about this, it's the testing procedure. It shows the high speed relays separate but they are physically located in the blowers.

When going through the testing procedure be very careful not to short anything or you will damage the ECM. There is a test connector you can plug into and I use these.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Top-P...A1M48hMBVeoPsA

If you have an old PC you will find them in there

 

Here's some info on the blower motor relays, Darlington transistors, etc

Air conditioning blower control

Cheers
DD

 

Still no joy on the blowers. More craziness though. Started the car and none of the panel instruments were working so I pulled the #4 fuse to double check it. When re-installing it the instruments activated as soon as I completed the circuit by touching the fuse ends to each terminal connection however.......when I pushed the fuse all the way in the instruments went dead again. Repeated this several times with the same result each time. That strange sound you hear is marbles rolling around inside my head.

 

Internal break in the fuse panel? Melted clip mounts? Pulling it seems required.

 

Thanks. I think. How to be certain?
Is this hard to pull and replace? I can get a replacement from the junkyard.

 

The terminals in the fuse holder, where you push the fuse in, have tabs on them to prevent them from being pushed out the back of the fuse holder when you insert a fuse, check that the terminal inside the fuse holder has not been pushed back.

 

Brad
I have experienced this too, on a friend's car. The problem is normally with the UPPER clip of the fuse holder. Believe it or not the problem seems to be that the clip is not gripping the fuse enough. If you look carefully, on the OUTSIDE side of the upper spring clip, there is a plastic divider between that clip and the next one. Buy a length of silicon, must be silicon, insulated wire, very small diameter, and strip off about 7mm of the silicon insulation. This, being a hollow tube, is quite springy. Remove the fuse and using a flat screwdriver carefully push this piece of silicon BETWEEN the clip and the plastic divider. If necessary do this on both sides of the clip, but usually one side is enough. Repeat on the lower clip if needed, but that one does not seem to be a problem usually.
Reinstall fuse and all well!
I have a spare loom and looked carefully at it before deciding what to do. Removing the fuseholder and associated loom from the car is basically not an option short of removing the dash. Also, the soldering etc of the loom into the fuseholder is very good quality indeed. It is just the copper clips getting tired that is the problem, and this fix works reliably.