Do the fans do anything on the defrost setting?
As for the mirrors, if fuse 8 in the main fusebox under the column is OK, I suggest start by removing the driver's door switch and testing for current there.

 

No, there is nothing from the fans on any selection including defrost.

Yes, testing for current at the mirror connectors will be my next step.

 

OK, how do you do that?

 

If the fans are good they will run for a second or two when fan control knob is turned on, they will then stop until the system reaches the required temp.

 

Remove the RH console cheek.

Look where the passengers Left knee would be, approx, and feel around, near the top of the tin air outlet.

There is an inline fuse up there, PITA on RHD, maybe still a PITA on LHD, dunno.

It blows, and the fans and the compressor be dead.

The thermo sensor for system activation is up on the copper pipe behind your instrument pack, maybe reachable, maybe not, without removing the cluster. Ours are behind the glovebox, and are accessible. I join the 2 wires, thus eliminating that silly switch.

When you check those glass fuses, also check the metal prongs they fit into. These prongs gunge up, and need a clean from time to time, like every 10 years or so.

 

Grant,

I have the glove box out and the lower scuttle removed on the passenger (right) side (left hand drive car). Under the 5 glass fuses is a big red fuse. Behind (towards the motor) the 5 glass fuses is a big blue fuse. To the left (towards the console) is a big black fuse.

Took the car for a spin today after adjusting the AAV screw and some minor detailing on the interior. Ran great. Idle rpms are at 875 in P and 675 in D. Book says 750 but doesn't say if that is in P or D.

Fuel odor is still prevalent. Thinking about putting some Permatex sealant around all the hoses. Have this image of driving down the road at 80mph with the trunk on fire. Not a happy picture. Dramatic to be sure but not happy.

 

What did you place under the tank? if you used the old stuff, you will never get rid of the smell until you change it. Ditto the boot carpets. Permetex round the joints will do absolutely nothing. Sprinkle them with flour, or talcum powder, might just show a slight leak. This is not magic, if there is fuel small it is leaking or the existing materials in the boot are impregnated.
There are many joins and exits from the tank. Have you renewed and checked them all, (eg the ones top tight that feed to breather/charcoal system)? Are all the replacement hose the correct type?
As far as the blowers and mirrors go, you just have no alternative other than starting at the fuses and checking for current at each downstream point. As grant says, not difficult but time consuming...

 

yep, I did not replace the padding under the tank that extends down the trunk behind he spare tire. I've pulled all the carpets pieces out and put my nose to them. No real odor in them that I can detect.
Guess I am going to have to look at replacing the padding under the tank. I can see how the smell would get impregnated in that material and could never be removed.
All the hose connections are correct and fitted on tightly with clamps. There is absolutely no leaks anywhere. I check regularly like the future of the car depended on it.
Off to evac the A/C system and pull the console cheek panel to look for the in-line fuse that Grant described. I have to believe that these problems are not major and are fixable. I am close.

 

looks like there may be a couple of additional steps needed before I can evac the a/c. The kit came with snap on valve connectors. Those do not fit the older R-12 style ports. Found an adaptor kit at the parts store High side seems fine. Low side appears to need the existing shradder valve removed before the valve extension connector adaptor will fit.

 

Grant,

Found an in line fuse under the tin air duct and attached to a group of wires all taped together coming from the area behind the blower selector knob. This is the only one I found. Pulled the fuse out. Looks OK. Ends are not corroded. Appears to be 3A fuse. won't hurt to replace it. Would be too cool if that is all it takes to get things running.

More research needed on the Low side port and the adaptor valve. Looking at everything it appears that the Schrader valve in the original port needs to come out in order to provide the room necessary for the adaptor valve to fit over it. The adaptor valve has a Schrader valve built into it. The Hi side adaptor did not.

 

Back to losing my mind. Took the car out for an extended drive earlier in the week. Everything went perfectly minus the electrical issues with the blower motor and outside mirrors/door locks mentioned previously.

Last night went to start it up. Turns over wonderfully and immediately but does not catch.
Today I test the relay (good), the fuel pump (good), and plenty of fuel pressure at the rail (sprayed out when I cracked the seal on the 1A hose). Literally nothing had changed from when I went for the extended drive that went so well.

Where to next gentlemen? Thanks.

 

Ground the car.

Do ALL that catch up that has been missed for 15 years, and do it properly, without deviation.

Bad earths sound the issue to me, and I have not reread this whole thread again, but constant grazing will rarely sort the V12 to a reliable Daily Driver or even close.

Under bonnet wiring now is SAD, and I mean SAD, so a rewire, ONE wire at a time, and sensible relocating of some as you go a good idea, cleaning ALL, and there are numerous, connections, trusting NONE, including the EFI resistor pack multi pin connector (the male and female ends), ignition switch electrical section overhaul, and a 100+ other silly/ stupid forgotten things.

This is the approach I took with mine in 1994, and I have NEVER been back in there. 4 others have had the same treatment in the following years, and also still running daily like a well oiled clock.

You cannot regas the a/c without the interior fans working.

The mirrors is NOTHING at this stage, and probably the silly switches not earthing the opposite terminal whilst powering the apposing terminal, been there many times.

I too had the temptation to drive my Jag, and that was the MK7 in 1968, and also got let down. My late Dad's sound advice at the time, to do the "catch up", which I had NO idea of the meaning, but I learnt FAST.
Every Jag since has had that treatment, and I have never been let down, and being let down in Australian Outback usually means no survival, you and the car.

 

Ugghhh... Lol.
Will begin shortly. I'll pull a spark plug to see if fuel is going thru the injectors first and then begin to clean all connections I can find.
I did ensure all the electrical connections in the trunk including all the grounding points were cleaned when I was doing the gas tank replacement work so I am confident they are all in good shape. .

 

OK, looks the problem seems to be an intermittent main fuse. Clicks on only occasionally or when I pulled it out slightly and then wiggle the angle a bit. Car did start for just a moment before cutting off.
The plug has power, the two large reddish wires coming off the (+) battery cable obviously have power. The pump lead was not showing power until I got the fuse to occasionally come on.
I have half a dozen spare fuses. Cleaning the contacts with steel wool now and brass wire brush now. Hopefully this fixes the issue and I can get (back) onto the mirrors and fan blower motor.

 

Houston, we have ignition. It's a Jaguar, it's always electrical related. LOL

Bad fuse or fuse connection. All better now. Back to the mirrors/door locks and blower motor.

 

Got the mirrors and interior lights working again. 3A fuse was blown and needed replacement.
Forgot to check if the door locks are working. Tomorrow night.
Next up is the blower motor. Hopefully replacing the inline 3A fuse will take care of that as well.
Car starts immediately and runs very, very smooth.
Getting close to the point where I will feel confident enough to take her on an extended road trip.

 

Well sounds like all is coming together for you, sometimes it's the simplest things that drive you nuts

 

If a fuse is blown then it's always a good to look at the fuse to determine how it's blown. They blow for 2 reasons

1. as fuses get old the element deteriorates and the fuse blows, looking at the fuse there will still be some element left.

2. a short, this will result in the element being totally disintegrated and sometimes there is black on the glass or plastic. It the fuse shows this type of damage them you need to investigate further and wiggle wires as the short may blow the fuse again.


Glass fuses also have a tendency to break the metal off and this can result in an intermittent fuse.

 

Warren,
There was no discoloration inside the glass tube. The wire filament was broken. It was an original (now 31 years old) fuse.

Interior lights, mirrors, and door locks are all working. hooray!!

Blower still not working. I did replace the 3A inline fuse inside the passenger side (RH) console kick panel. Still nothing. Looking at the Main Fuse Box chart in the owners manual it says fuse number 10 is for the air conditioning motors. I assume these are the same as the blower motors. Says it is a 50A fuse. Fuse number 11 is for the air conditioning controls, horn, washers, and radiator cooling fan. 35A fuse. That's my next stop. After that I am clueless.

If I can get the blower motors working the only thing left not working will be the air conditioning. That still just needs to be evac'd and then re-charged. I would first need to ensure the compressor oil is changed to R134 oil. R12 (ester) oil and R134 refrigerant do not mix well from what I have read.

 

Each blower has a separate fuse 10 main fuse panel for the left and 5 aux fuse panel for the right, the control to turn the blowers on comes from the HVAC ECM.

The orange wire from the blower goes to pin 16 of the HVAC ECM disconnect the plug from the ECM and check ohms to ground from this pin, I would expect somewhere between 8-12 ohms