Hello all.


Long (long) time no post. Last time I was on these forums, I had destroyed the Jack Shaft when I got lazy and didn't realize the distributor had locked up. Word to any of you: maintain those distributors. The good news: I have successfully replaced the jack shaft, replaced all the front-end gaskets, re-built the distributor, and everything appears to be running great!


Except...it's not. I failed the smog test. Big time. I apologize for not having the results in front of me (left with mechanic). Unburned gas limit is 20, which is on the high end. My results are minimum 40 and higher, which is twice the limit. And it's not just at any specific speed or when accelerating/decelerating, it just seems to just follow the revs up and down as though it was meant to do just that.


Here is the thing: it was this high BEFORE the Jack Shaft fiasco. I thought maybe it was the Vacuum Advance as it wasn't working (and how the distributor came to get locked up). Yet here I find myself IN THE SAME SCENARIO. RAWR!


My poor mechanic (who really is one of the best I've ever run into) is stumped. I'll try to get to everything we've tried and/or looked at.


1. there is spark to all the spark plugs. I can only assume that the plugs are also firing installed as they before they are installed.
2. timing is correct, per using a light
3. fuel rail has the right pressure, 30 to 40 psi with variance due to acceleration as reported by a "t"
4. vacuum hoses APPEAR to be good, as all hoses are forming and holding pressure, as reported by using a "t"
5. the fuel injectors are all clicking. Could one be not fully closing? Possibly.
6. the catalysts are NOT getting red hot. They seem to be normal regular color


We are not sure what to look at. We are thinking that it might have to do with the airflow somewhere (or lack thereof), or possibly a temperature sensor that reports good, but is really not working.


Here's something that I've noticed that is odd for this engine (to me): it takes about 20 to 30 minutes to get to normal operating temperature just idling, a bit faster (15 minutes?) if running. This was during warm weather, I just find it odd.


Any ideas or suggestions? As of this September, it will have been two years since Morris was on the road. I'd like to get it to pass smog so I can go get stranded somewhere and ride back home in a tow truck!


Eskr

 

Just about the only way these cars can run rich is if the injectors are staying open too long, fuel pressure is too high, or the cold start enrichment regime is not switching off. In your position, this is what I would do, in no particular order:

• replace B bank FPR as a precaution
• remove A bank FPR completely
• have all the injectors cleaned and serviced
• UNPLUG the temperature switch on the cabin end of the A bank water manifold, this should disable the warm up enrichment
• check the return fuel line to the tank from B bank is clear
• see if the vac capsule on the dizzy holds vac AND moves the dizzy
• run a vac line DIRECTLY from the vac capsule to the spigot on the underside of the A bank throttle body.
• change the air filters
• replace the thermostats
• fit new plugs gapped carefully to 25 thou.

Good luck
greg

 

And a couple more things I have just thought of:

• test throttle position sensor for correct voltage
• replace air and water temp sensors that signal the ECU

Greg

 

Just to add one thing to Gregs list.

The O2 sensors. My car runs dreadfully rich (luckily we do not have annual roadworthy's) one of my O2 sensors is bad. After a good long run or Italian tuneup it settles down and runs ok.

 

Good point Warrjon, I do not have cats, thankfully, so of course know nothing about them and their effects.
Greg

 

Assuming your air temp sensor is connected, I'd make sure that there is no break in the wire, mine used to guzzle before I fixed it. A simple continuity check may be worth it.

 

Another one would be to check the full-load switch, disconnect it, it should only work when you get your foot down hard and vacuum drops below 3 inHg.

 

All the above suggestions are good. But I like to start cheep and work my way up the money and difficulty ladder.

I'd start with the temperature issue. Are your thermostats stuck open or are they the improper temperature specification? If the thermostats prevent the coolant from reaching operating temperature then the ECU will continue to enrich the Fuel/Air mix.

If the Coolant Temp Sensor is failed or if it is misreading or if the coolant temperature never satisfies it then the ECU will continue to enrich the Fuel/Air mix. Jump out it's connector to test this. This tells the ECU the engine is fully warm and to use the default fuel map.

Are you missing on a cylinder? Unburnt oxygen exiting the missing cylinder will tell the ECU the engine needs more fuel in the mix. Check flow regularity from both exhausts. Any chuffing or irregular poofs from either side?