Shyte...ABS light
Hi Malc
Is there any Brake Fluid in the Reservoir
Can you hear the Brake Pump Running
Do you have to push the Brake Pedal really hard to Stop her
Does the Brake Pedal go straight down to the floor
Have you checked the Fuses
Is there any Brake Fluid in the Reservoir
Can you hear the Brake Pump Running
Do you have to push the Brake Pedal really hard to Stop her
Does the Brake Pedal go straight down to the floor
Have you checked the Fuses
Last edited by orangeblossom; Jun 25, 2017 at 04:11 AM.
Hi Malc,
There is a way to get the ABS control module to flash an error code. You have to link together a couple of wires in the trunk, turn on the ignition and the dash ABS light will flash numbered codes. Might give you a start.
The whole procedure is described in the official Jag manual. Do you have access to one?
Cheers,
LeeP
There is a way to get the ABS control module to flash an error code. You have to link together a couple of wires in the trunk, turn on the ignition and the dash ABS light will flash numbered codes. Might give you a start.
The whole procedure is described in the official Jag manual. Do you have access to one?
Cheers,
LeeP
Hi Malc
If you have to push the Brake Pedal Hard to Stop Her, it could be the 'Black Ball Thingy' aka the Accumulator.
May need re pressurizing or renewing.
If you have to push the Brake Pedal Hard to Stop Her, it could be the 'Black Ball Thingy' aka the Accumulator.
May need re pressurizing or renewing.
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Yes there is a plug in the left rear trunk (boot) wheel well and l did the shorting test. It came back with code 21. This is a front or rear left or right in or outlet valve failure. what ever they are......
malc4d,
That's relating to the valves in the ABS valve block. I'd be tempted to try a full flush through and bleed especially of the front brakes a few times and see if it can resolve the problem before you start thinking about stripping or replacing the valve block.
Good luck
Paul
That's relating to the valves in the ABS valve block. I'd be tempted to try a full flush through and bleed especially of the front brakes a few times and see if it can resolve the problem before you start thinking about stripping or replacing the valve block.
Good luck
Paul
Hi Malc,
The valve block is where the hydraulics and electrical systems come together so that if a wheel locks up the electrical system detects this and reduces the hydraulic pressure to that wheel. It all happens in an instant with the brake being rapidly applied / released until it stops locking up or the car comes to a stop.
There are inlet and outlet valves for all 4 wheels operated by electrical solenoids in the valve block plus a couple more for front and back. A complex bit of kit and that is about the limit of my knowledge but Orangeblossom knows them inside out.
You can perform a series of electrical checks by measuring voltage / resistance at the big connector that plugs into the ABS ECM in the trunk. This includes fooling the system that a wheel is locked up by bridging some of the terminals and checking if the wheel will rotate with the brakes are applied (car jacked up). There are also variations to check if there is a cable problem or a problem in the valve block itself.
You will need a good multi meter to do the above and the tests (32 in all but only 11 relate to the valve block) are detailed in the jag manual. It sounds complicated when you read it but take your time and work methodically and you will be able to get a better fix on just where your problem is in the system.
Good luck,
LeeP
The valve block is where the hydraulics and electrical systems come together so that if a wheel locks up the electrical system detects this and reduces the hydraulic pressure to that wheel. It all happens in an instant with the brake being rapidly applied / released until it stops locking up or the car comes to a stop.
There are inlet and outlet valves for all 4 wheels operated by electrical solenoids in the valve block plus a couple more for front and back. A complex bit of kit and that is about the limit of my knowledge but Orangeblossom knows them inside out.
You can perform a series of electrical checks by measuring voltage / resistance at the big connector that plugs into the ABS ECM in the trunk. This includes fooling the system that a wheel is locked up by bridging some of the terminals and checking if the wheel will rotate with the brakes are applied (car jacked up). There are also variations to check if there is a cable problem or a problem in the valve block itself.
You will need a good multi meter to do the above and the tests (32 in all but only 11 relate to the valve block) are detailed in the jag manual. It sounds complicated when you read it but take your time and work methodically and you will be able to get a better fix on just where your problem is in the system.
Good luck,
LeeP
Today after letting the car sit in the naughty corner for a week, l tried some unplugging and checking of relays. It seems the pump relay isn't making contact between the pump 12v feed. After jumping the contacts the pump pumped up the system and l got rid of the brake warning light and had brakes....yippee. new relay ordered. Still have the ABS light though. dam !!
malc4d,
Good to hear it's getting sorted. Don't worry about the light until you've driven the car. I've seen plenty of XJS that had problems and light illuminated, but would extinguish when problem sorted and then driven past about 10mph.
Paul
Good to hear it's getting sorted. Don't worry about the light until you've driven the car. I've seen plenty of XJS that had problems and light illuminated, but would extinguish when problem sorted and then driven past about 10mph.
Paul
Today fitted the replacement relay and the brakes worked...but that dam ABS light is still on....grrrrr. Guess that means no ABS brakes at the moment.
Last edited by malc4d; Jul 20, 2017 at 10:00 PM.






