The parts he has a very nice indeed, I don't remember in the thread if you are going to build your own set of headers for the motor? If you are I love to see how they turn out, if you document the specs on them Ill be interested in buying a copy of your plans.
My big router has a 4th axis, the mill will also when I get around to it, easy to make an absolute nightmare to program.
Ill keep watching and reading with interest.

 

"absolute nightmare to program"

thats why programmers get big money, sometimes more than the lathe/mill operators!

back in the old days(yeah i know), to make an exhaust flange we just traced an outline on a piece of stock, cut it out with a torch, drillled holes, and grind out the ports, course it only cost 5 dollars for the set of flanges!

what ever happened to craftsmanship?

 

What was the duration of the XJR15 camshaft did it run 282° and did this cause piston clearance issues, ie were the pistons dished or valve reliefs cut, or were they flat top?

I am rebuilding my 6.0L now and am looking for input to get the best of it. I am not looking for 7500rpm screamer. I want a good midrange performer, will limit RPM to 6000.

My list so far.
Heads.
Re-cut valves for 3 angle.
Open out intake ports to gaskets.
Smooth exhaust ports.
Ceramic coat chambers and exhaust ports and valves.
Regrind camshafts to increase lift, (depends on research)

Pistons
Undecided yet - depends if I bore or leave 6.0L
Ceramic coated on the crown.

Exhaust Manifolds to be opened out and ceramic coated inside and out.

Intake manifold.
Totally new with 23inch runners crossed over the top of the engine (like BMW M70).

Maintain the original Marelli ignition at least in the short term.

 

I would do some research into.the piston and combustion chamber.coatings, I have seen this fail a few times on my ffriend's race motors, which is why he doesn't do it anymore, and I didn't.do it.

 

I am not shooting for over 500hp, high 400's would be good but my engine will be built for midrange. Engine is a 1994 XJ12 6.0L, one of the last with forged crank

Here it is on the stand being dismantled. The front crank seal has seen better days, and I suspect the head gasket is gone as there is white milky sludge in the water pump housing.

 

warrjon ,looking close at those pix , i think its two different vehicles.

and the broadspeed engine(left side pic) looks to have a center injector arraingment , something like early CIS bosch!

car looks GRREAT!! gotta love it when a plan comes together.

 

it could also be that the cylinder liners are leaking on the bottom, that's what happened to my motor.

 

Cal did find out why your liners were leaking, and what did you do fix it?

 

i have the Thermal barrier coating in my chambers,ports,valves and piston tops, all done in 1995, no problems at all!

like anything reliativly new, it all depends on the process involved, most serious race engines today use some type of coatings.

 

and on the subject of inlet manifolds, i had my manifolds EXTRUDE HONED, they came out much better than factory, insides opened ,plenums and runners about 1/8" per wall,so total amount was around 1/4" larger internally.

most important was removal of the odd lumps and bumps inside manifolds, and a nice flare shape into the runners, also removed about 50% of the injector lump.

final finish was smooth but not polished, you could see the grain flow marks with a flashlight, something resembling a swirl polish!

 

the previous owner has put too much rtv on them, ae found it when we pressure tested the block, because I was worried about a cracked block. I used new cylinder liners and anaerobic sealant.

 

Group 44 managed too pull 625 from a 5.3 in the xj-5 or 6 and that was with carburetors on yesterdays technology. I'm quite confident you'll make 500hp with what you've put in it calvin as long as you can keep it cold !

 

I think it will most likely come when I'm done building the sheet metal intakes. but who knows, a boy can dream right?

 

At what RPM. The TWR manifolds do not make power until after 6500rpm which is great for a race car but not practical for a road car.

Best option IMO is long runner at least 23" better still would be 25". 25" will put the harmonics at about 4th - 3000, 3rd - 4000 and 2nd - 5700.

Use 38mm (1.5") OD aluminum tube this will give ID about 35mm, cross them over the middle of the engine like the BMW M70 manifolds. There is enough room under the bonnet as well as dissy clearance (Marelli Dissy)to do this I have measured it. Using 6.0L fuel rails will lower the injectors and you could even add a flange so they are 2 piece for easy removal.

The only thing I have not looked at the the throttle pedestal but I am sure this could be fabricated and attached to the manifolds, my 6.0L the throttle capstan was attached to the fuel rails and manifolds, No pedestal.

 

my question warron, if if they are across the valley, how will you tig weld that, because you can't take that appart once the flanges are on it.

 

They would need to be in 2 pieces, one short riser with a turn from the head, the injector bungs can be welded in here, with another flange that the longer runners bolt to allowing the runners to intertwine.

I would pin them so they are a perfect fit and this will make replacing plugs and rotor easier as well.

 

Hey Cal,
The intake sounds like a lot of fun.
I'll be really interested to see how it looks, and the time you spend on it.
Make sure you keep track of it for us if you would.
What size throttle do you think you will use?
It would need to be bigger than the two that came on the engine from the factory to really gain anything.
I'm not going to touch much on the runner length issue as it's really a science, that needs to take into account a lot of variables to make the model work out.
I have found on most of the engines I've injected that about 12-14'' was the best length for torque.
But those were Hemis, Chevys, Fords and such.
Also the Buick Nailhead, which is really what the Flathead Jag cylinder head is fashioned after.
The Hemis of course, you can't beat too much for great flow.
I'm working on a camshaft grind that will help the Jag out in that dept. for a street engine specifically, but not for the engine I'm first using the new 12-stack system for.
I want to put it on a Chassis dyno when it's done and using the complete rear that came out of the 'S'.
That will be a good test as the weight of the vehicle doesn't come into play.

On the 'keeping it cool', I've got a system that always worked for me back to the stone age that I've heard some auto manufacturers finally decided to try and found it worked.
I'll be using this on the mill I'm working on for the '36 Chevy pickup.
It won't have any trouble with over-heating, and there's not going to be any coating on this engine as it's straight out of the XJS.

 

Found these last night couldn't sleep the car was on my mind!

 

This intake is simular too what I was scheming except it would be a one piece pan on the bottom that these runners feed from the intake separates about 1/4 inch above the runners too the top of the intake which would house four of the stock throttle bodys with velocity stacks a center bolt too hold down a 16x12 air filter . I will post drawings when my scanner stops having a hissy fit

 

One picute says a thousand words