Hanging with that Porsche is kinda cool but that's a lotta work to get to that point considering the Porsche has 1/2 the turbo's and 1/2 the cylinders.

 

sure aint no beauty queen , just ugly looking!

 

.

,, DARN i thought OZ was a FREE country??

in TEXAS we can do almost anything to our cars!
after 25yrs NO inspection required special plate for rear only, no front plate, so Vanity plate, like

 

 

[QUOTE=LongJohn;2035400]

 

 

[QUOTE=LongJohn;2035497]

 

 

 

Longjohn
Please explain to us a bit more detail about what has been done and what power it is expected to develop. That inlet valve looks huge. Lovely looking work by RB, that is for sure.
Thanks in advance
Greg

 

the sparkplug is still in the wrong place, flame travel will be slow for the far end of chamber , that could lead to detonation!!
it looks like plenty of swirl& squish, but BMEP would suffer!

 

and the cost of such is out of reach for most people!
i wonder abut valve size , maybe offset guides,donno!
but lets see it on the dyno!
ron

 

rob beere technician tuning!

 

Exhaust valve looks bigger too. I am surprised they have not removed the threads for the spark plug and smoothed the pointy bit between the intake and exhaust valves as these will get hot and cause detonation.

I know RB sells 1.71" intake valves that will fit in a stock seat. I looked at these but ended up going with stock size stainless intake valves.

 

000ViperGTS;804560]Okay, getting my flamethrower out on this one. If you are making power that is in excess of 1 HP per cubic inch, you can eliminate most of turbo lag and near 1.6 HP per CI you can eliminate it all together. FastKat statement rings true and seriously there are a lot of armchair racing going on this thread <---It reminds me of this from posts of people that have not ran built TT and SC cars and “read” this or that or heard some story from another person. Sure, put a set of TT on anything stock and nothing else and you will get lag and lots of it. I'm amazed reading
some of these posts here-it is like we need to put a prerequisite up of building a higher HP car to eliminate pontificating as an expert. None of this is hard, in fact it is pretty simple and going turbo, TT, or a myriad of SC is not hard either to install and make power. Sure you have to relocate things, maybe make a manifold, fuel rails, et cetera that is what it will take and this is all normal. You will need a fuel system that can support your needs, space under the bonnet is an issue but again none of this is hard. Parts not available is going to be the tune of the day. What about when you make the HP, when then? Will the Jag motor hold up? If not, to me this is all moot, but seriously on pump 93 you should be able to make 700 RWHP if you have some time, money and you know how to do it but again you will need internals from pistons, rods, main caps that hold up. Personally I am only purchasing or thinking of building 1000+ RWHP on 93 pump at this time in my life so not behind my keyboard slamming keys talking about it. Hell even my one boat I am thinking of putting puffers on my motors as it needs to break 100 MPH. This whole challenge will be what is the mission long term, make power on pump and keep it drivable and then quantify drivable, at what cost and what longevity? Throwing a Paxton on a mildly modded engine is a lot of lag as a Paxton will act much like a turbo due to the Paxton’s design. Anyhow, thanks FastKat for a great post and glad to see some are on point here with experience.[/QUOTE]
A pair of T2’s under the fenders is the easy button for a race car. ( not streetable) was If you use E85 with its great cooling effects you don’t need intercoolers. The Bosch system can be tricked into working with a simple FMU. Isky xm3 cams and bigger injectors are all that is required.

 

It’s E85 85% ethanol alcohol is all the cooling required on a twin turbo V12. No need for lag inducing intercoolers. Start small, T2’s tucked between the fender and inner fender panel.
A pair of Isky XM 3’s, double the piston ring gap and the stock 7.8-1 cast pistons are fine. Look around the junkyard for bigger injectors. I adapted the ones from a GM Atlas engine.
Oh you’ll have to buy a FMU to trick the early Bosch system into giving you more fuel under boost and all you’ll get is about 6 psi but that should land you around 500 hp.
The stock Borg Warner gearbox can’t deal with that so you’re better off swapping to a manual transmission.
The easy trick is to use the later block designed to use the Turbo 400 transmission. Swap the earlier 7.8-1 pistons in. Use the early flatheads. If you have to use the early block your work just got really complicated. ( it can be done but entails a lot of measurements) You can transfer bolt patterns to a aluminum plate because the locating pins on the later blocks ( including the 6.0 are where the Chevy pins are that line everything up. It’s not even a mornings worth of work. Take the crank bushing from the series 3 XKE manual transmission and bore it out to the pilot shaft you’re using then all you need is a flywheel and the proper clutch disk.

 

The American preHE engines have 7.8-1 compression with the good flowing flatheads. They take to turbo’s like a duck to water.
The earliest ones with the Bosch FI are very easy to trick into working with boost, all you need is a cheap FMU and E85 fuel.

 

Becasue every great automotive engineering effort starts with "All you need is a cheap..."

LOL... Low compression isnt the only thing you need for boost. The early chamber has no tendency to swirl, and has a dish piston with no squish area. The design is optimized for ease of production not boost. The early V12 chamber is a compromise. It's very poor from a combustion stand point and needs lots of ignition timing becasue the flame has to travel so far becasue of the flat wide dished chamber in the piston. Jag new this, the XK head with its pentroof chamber, flatter pistons, and central spark plus was a much better design. The V12 needed to be smooth and easy to produce not win races like the early XK needed to do with the 120, 140 etc.

I understand the Romance a V12 offers. The mechanical and symphonic dance of 12 pistons and 24 valves smoothly going about their business is very alluring. I own two V12's myself but weight and packaging cripple high performance potential unless you have an exotic budget and since you're here and used the word "Cheap" I know you dont. It's very expensive and difficult to get world class performance from a V12 and I promise "All you need is cheap" will not get it done. Porsche bet the company on the 917 V12 project and it was close to putting them under. They pulled it out in the end but it's a mistake they wont make again.

The V12 strength is smoothness. Best to leave it there. Tinking at the margins..., making it the best it can be, yes. I had a V12 with a 6 speed and it's a very rewarding driving experiences. I will build another. The world has moved on but Romance will never die.

 

Shrug... Do us all a favor, put down the keyboard and pick up a V12 and wrench, go build something, make it work and be able to put the power down, stop and turn. Then post some picts and some performance data, ma be even prove it works on a track and post some picts and video. The world needs less pontificating and more wrenching, I've done my part now go do yours.

Forget "faskKat" He abandoned his project and sold off the parts before completion. I spoke to him,,,he went with a different car, a Pontiac G8.

 

icsa, i think mguar has some racing experience a few yrs back, so he is venting his thoughts!
but back 5or 8 yrs ago E85 was not available most places,soo , times have changes E85 is the most cost effective fuel for forced induction engines racing TODAY!

good for FASTKAT, G8 is the Chevy SS here! sadly stopped production this yr. great cars!
and isca your remarks are VALID also!
ron