So I found an XJS for sale locally and I'm going to see if I can make arrangements to go for a drive and bring it to work and get it up in the air and see what I'm getting myself into.

Currently I'm driving a 94 XJ40 as my DD for about the last 3 years. I love the car but it's getting up there miles wise and while its rust free all the paint fell off and as a Clarkson used to say some of the ponies have escaped from the barn so maybe it's time for something different.

The car in question is a 90 xjs V12 convert. With 85k on the clock ( this is almost 100k less than my xj) It's at a local park and sell.

From my walk around on the lot it looks ok. It's been repainted what appears to be the original color and aside from some swirls ect and a small surface that are where the lisc plate sits. Underneath it looks good. No rust
It does leak oil but doesn't post to leak puddles.
The hood wasn't locked and I did t relatch it. It has mismatched tires and Charlie's at that. But aside from that looks ok

The interior looks ok. Not pristine but not beat up either.

Ok gurus what do I need to look for. I'm a mechanic by trade so I'm sure I can fix what's wrong but I'm trying to get an assessment in my head as to what it will take to bring it up to snuff to use a DD for a 70 mile rt commute.

I'm listening.

 

Check the steering rack for any leaks around the steering box. The seals always tend to break down after time. Ask how often does the power steering fluid need topping up.

Be very certain the folding roof is in good condition and is water tight. They are known for leaking.

Hope this helps for a starter.

 

Look for a reason to run far far away, lol..... Nah, rust is number one in my book. At 85K, you need to be ready to start immediately on several items. Starting with cooling system? The 90 is also a Marelli car. Plugs are a absolute must every 10k on these cars. If not, the resitance will cause the rotor to short to ground. I also recommend replacing both front and rear "sensors". They are service items, and do go bad. After that, check the rear brake system out throughly. Then take it somewhere else, and have it checked again. As noted by others, and personal experience, spending 1K doing the rear brakes yourself isn't out of the question if you have to replace the rotors, because if you are going that deep, then its u-joints, bushings, shocks? All sorts of things. Interior stuff can be very expensive. Just be ready to spend, spend, spend...to make it right.

 

Also make sure you are buying the 1990 Model and not a 1989 Model registered in 1990.

The 1989 Car has the 'Skinny Indicator stalks' while the 1990 Model has the heavy duty ones.

Just a bit of a kicker to negotiate the price down.

Any chance of a Photo, so we can see what you are buying and maybe a price to go with it if you want to.

Check the Model: Is She a proper 1990

Check the Brakes: (Make sure the ABS Works) $1,500

Rear Rotors & Bushes etc: $1000

New Set of Tires: $800+

Check the Rad for any Compound designed to Stop Leaks (walk away!)

Make sure She doesn't Overheat (walk away!)

Check the Boss of the big Yellow Fan for Stress Cracks $150

When the Engine is Running the Yellow Fan should be kicking up a Storm of Cooling Air.

When you Switch the Engine off, the Yellow Fan should more or less Stop Dead. (if not the engine could be cooked) walk away.

After a run the Auxiliary Fan should keep running for a while when the engine is switched off (if not the engine could be cooked) walk away.

As you may already know these Cars cost a fortune to put right, so if She isn't up to scratch, then be prepared to Spend a lot of Money.

 

I didnt get to go look today but here is a pic.

 

In the "How To" sticky thread at the top of this section you'll find an XJS buyers guide that might be helpful


Cheers
DD

 

Leaper. Run.

 

Hilarious!!

 

As its in the US and labeled a '90 its most probably a '89 build...
It looks nice enough, although the hood doesn't seem to close properly. If you don't like the leaper you can put the growler badge back on.

 

That is my Favourite Colour of All Time and quite a rare one at that but why no Coach Stripes?

That might effect the value if you decide to Re-sell her one day but Why was She Re-Sprayed???

Has She been in some sort of Accident or maybe Insurance 'Write Off'

If there's a Problem with the Soft Top, that could be expensive to put right, also the Bonnet/Hood doesn't seem to be latching properly.

A lot depends on the price.

 

what happened to the pic...i cant seem to see it...?

Did somebody say leaper? I used to be one of "those"

 

I'm not sure that cars sold in the US all had the pinstripes. A lot of dealers added all sorts of side moldings..

 

Be sure the temperature guage needle goes no further than on the right hand side of the "N" off the "N" and walk away.

 

Mine doesn't, however it was completely repainted at the dealer prior to delivery to the first owner, so never mind / who knows what Browns Lane applied- HA!

Jeff

 

Don't forget to order a much larger wallet.

 

I'm pretty sure the hood just wasn't latched. Possible the interior handle has an issue or the previous looker didn't latch it all the way.

As far as the paint. Most cars here have bad paint after a few years. Unless theyare garaged kept all the time. The trade off to things not getting rusty is bad paint.

I have the weekend to think it over. The fact that it's a convertibleis actually a negative for me. I would much prefer a coupe and if I could find one a 94+ coupe.

 

New Mexico ! Love the state. I grew up in El Paso, Texas. More closely akin to New Mexico than Texas!!! As a kid and young adult, trips and stays at Ruidoso were lots of fun.


Later, in my early business career, my territory run was Alamogordo, Ruidoso, Roswell, Hobbs. Carlsbad and thence home. I enjoyed the interaction wit the folks .


Although, that car's color isn't particularly striking, at the right price, it is attractive.
My first criteria of buying any car is liking it. If you don't it will not go well. If you do, you will tolerate any flaws, minor and even major!!!!


Carl

 

Rust, especially in the sills, and where the rear trailing arms attach to the frame is a major issue. Then look for signs of overheating, that is bad for the v12 and is attributed to dropped valve seats. If the coolant system is not kept maintained or if there is barrs leak (a jaguar recommended proceedure back in the day) that muck settles in the engine and is bad.

There is a free online book by Kirby, just google "xjs help kirby". It consolidates a wealth of knowledge from the jag lovers site and is a good resource.. good luck.

 

You pays your money, you takes your chance.
If you get a good one it is an absolute joy.
If you get a bad one then it is no different to getting something else that is a complete bag of spanners.
Name another V12, 150mph, leather clad car that you can buy for pocket money?
Big pockets obviously!
If you drive a 4 cylinder car and you lose one you are 25% down on power (just been there with the Freelander, £900 for a recon head including labour and it still won't pull the skin off a rice pudding).
With the V12 you only really notice when you are down to 9 cylinders.
And anyway; V12! come on, you have to do it!

 

I doubt rust is much of an issue in your area, I would be looking at the wiring in the Vee of the engine, it cooks her in the north,I bet it cooks faster in NM. You say you are a mechanic so that should not be a big issue. Otherwise, even compression, and a cooling system that is full and not pressurized, indicating a head gasket issue.