I've just finished reading every thread I could find on R&R of the steering rack, and I've looked at the step by step instructions in the workshop manual and this great post:

jaghelp.com: Changing the power steering rack on a 1994 Jaguar XJS L6

However, rather than feeling confident with all that info, I'm a bit intimidated and worried. There are parts of the workshop manual instructions I don't even understand: "slacken off the clip securing the draught excluder to the lower column" ...draught excluder?

I found a place that rents mechanic's stations with nice two post lifts where I intend on tackling the job, but I'm worried that I'm going to be racking up hourly $'s there trying to figure out how to do or deal with the fiddly bits of the job rather than just getting it done.

I spent today dealing with the rebuilt rack having standard steel/rubber bushing already installed, figuring it was better to get the rack prepped as much as possible before renting a lift, I did the switch to poly bushings. On the bright side, it was a lot easier dealing with pressing those out and replacing with poly ones on the workbench than it was when I did that job on the car... in 1998 (time flies).

Any advice or wisdom would be really appreciated.

I'm particularly concerned about how you even get to the where the steering column connects to the rack, let alone remove nuts or bolts up there. And removing things sometimes is 4x easier than getting them back in.

 

That's the rubber gasket thingy plugging the hole where the column enters the cabin. If that's missing you can have some Seriously cold (or hot) feet!

It's held to the column by a sort of rinky dink hose clamp affair only accessible from inside. Getting it back in place is a Really fun task!
(';')

 

Mac
As long as you are just swapping an already rebuilt rack for the old one, the job is not too bad, but maybe more difficult on a LHD car.
On a RHD car this is the sequence, and the only difference you will find is access may be a problem to some of the fixings, maybe not:
1) Disconnect steering column from the splined shaft on the rack. This requires a pinch bolt to be undone and the column pulled up from the rack spline. A bit fiddly but it is OK once the affair is moved about a bit so the universal coupling on the column can move and give extra "give". The draught excluder does not need touching unless you are changing the entire column. When re-fitting, make sure the pinch bolt/spline join is fully engaged down to its limit, the pinch bolt then goes through via a notch in the spline, which must line up with the pinch fitting bolt hole. This is safety critical.
2) Undo the rack output rods (tie rods) where they screw into the ball joint attached to the steering arms. Carefully note the length of the rod from the rack to the ball joint. Then you can do a rough setting on the new rack before driving it straight to the alignment shop to have it set 0.25 to 0.5 degree toe in.
3) Undo the power steering hoses from the rack (I believe on a LHD car this is can be a royal pain to re-attach). Once the rack is out it may be that you can undo some PS pipe clips to give yourself a bit more play for reinstallation.
4) Undo the three long bolts (one, one side, two the other) that attach the rack to the subframe. you will probably have to undo heat shield fixing first. I suggest you use new bolts and nuts to re-attach throughout, against future work.


Good luck, my last suggestion is, why not shove it on a lift and take a look to see what the access problems are, and then think about/sort them in your mind, before returning another day to get stuck in, armoured with he knowledge and tools you need? Works for me.
Greg

 

I know for sure you know this Greg but OP may not.
That pinch bolt needs to be undone and REMOVED alltogether to remove joint from spline.

 

Thanks Greg! The above part is where I still can't picture or understand the job. I'm sure it's one of those things that after you've done it, it makes perfect sense, but I was under the car and I don't see how you'd even get to anything above the rack to undo it. From above, none of it is visible.

Dropping the rack with tie rods loosened to gain access to the hose fittings makes perfect sense, but I obviously can't drop it to get access to the pinch bolt.

Bear with my stupidity for a second, and explain it in more detail if you don't mind. Do you do something inside the driver's footwell, or is it all from under the car? Is it something like "use a long extension with a 12mm socket on a universal joint fed up through..." or whatever else it might entail.


Very good to know. Thank you.


I can picture and understand all of that, anything tricky or that I should know on how to remove the heat shield fixings?


Any idea of the specs for new bolts and nuts? I can't in the middle of the job head out to a hardware store or parts shop, so I'll have to prebuy those.

Thanks very much!

 

Mac


Here are some photos of the rack spline area and the column end, on a RHD car though. ALL access etc is from underneath the car. You can only get to the spline joint from underneath, and you may have to remove things to see it on a LHD (eg oil filter, but I have no real idea). Then once you can see it, the 1/2 inch AF nut and bolt have to be undone with a small ratchet one end and a spanner the other, with cocked wrists and much pain, NOT easy, but it can be done. Turn the steering wheel to get it to the easiest position. You probably have to remove some heatshields first. They are flimsy but important to reinstall, they can be bent to fit Ok with no worries.
The rack to subframe bolts are here, item 4 gives the size (5/16 unf is the width). Steering Rack and Pinion Mountings-5.3 Litre - Parts For XJS from (V)139052 to (V)179736 | Jaguar Heritage Parts UK


If you have not already bought something else, I would strongly suggest you fit JaguarSport bushing to the rack as they are indestructible and give really positive feel, item 3 here, stupid money as you need two (one each side and one normal one on the side with two bushes will do it, I think). Steering Rack and Pinion-Jaguarsport - Parts For XJS from (V)139052 to (V)179736 | Jaguar Heritage Parts UK


If access is just impossible, there are more drastic things that are possible to get access, like loosening the subframe a bit, but let's leave that for now! Anything not clear, just ask.
Greg

 

Thanks Greg! Those photos are very helpful.

Does anyone with a LHD car know if the oil filter should be removed or any suggestions on getting to the pinch bolt?

 

Mac, I have just looked it up and the Great Palm (LHD) says removing the oil filter to gives enough access to get to the pinch bolt.
Greg

 

If removing the oil filter doesn't pan out you can get to the bolt via the wheel well with a long-ish extension. There's a small gap between the subframe and the sheet metal that provides a 'window' to the pinch bolt.

Cheers
DD

 

Thanks guys.

After re-reading Kirby's section on this, and the jaghelp link, I see a little detail that I'll highlight for anyone else as clueless as me attacking this job.

In the jaghelp link he says,

"Remove the key and lock the steering wheel in the forward position. The good thing about this rack is that it can only fit one way with the steering shaft, so remove the bolt and wiggle the thing out. "

But Kirby says,

"If you have to totally remove the steering rack, one problem is how to remove the pinch bolt that connects the steering column swivel joint to the tower shaft. Remove the oil filter first, then turn the steering wheel until the pinch bolt is positioned where you can get at it."

I think the clearer way of stating it might be:

Remove the oil filter first, then turn the steering wheel until the pinch bolt is positioned where you can get at it, once you have the nut off, remove the bolt. Before you go to the next step, turn the steering wheel until the wheels are straight and the steering wheel is centered. Remove the key and lock in position.

Make sense?

 

How many hours should this job take if done on two post lift?

Thanks.

 

IF, big if, it all comes undone as you hope, and you have all the tools you need, not more than an hour to get the rack off. You will probably need metric spanners for the tie rod undoing, depending upon the date of your car.

It can be a pain to extract the old bushes from the rack body, Palm explains a homemade tool to do this. Depending upon what you replace them with, you may have to press the new ones in too. If you have the tools for this, half an hour.

Then say another hour to get the rack back on. As always, things can take longer because of bad bolt hexes, etc etc.
Greg

 

Thanks Greg,


Yes indeed. Fortunately, I already extracted the OEM bushes out of the rebuilt/replacement rack last weekend, and have replaced them with new polyurethane ones. A heck of a lot easier on the workbench than when I did it many years ago with the rack still in the car.

I also have new tie rod ends and locking nuts, so I should be able to use the old rack/tie rods as a guide to quickly set up the new one with close to the same alignment.

 

FYI, I am pretty sure that on a 1990 the steering rod ends will be metric threads. But be careful that the new ones are the same as the rack rod end threads.
Greg

 

Correct. They are 14mm.

Thanks for all the helpful insight, much more confident going in knowing what to expect.

 

Kill me now.

I’m obviously just a slow mechanic. Experience has taught me that I’m generally better off being methodical and conscientious rather than quick, which is all well and good when I’m working in my garage at home, but disastrous when I’m renting a lift by the hour.

I got the rack out without any real trouble, thanks to Greg and Doug’s excellent prep advice (the ‘through the wheel well” trick worked a treat on the pinch bolt).

The time started to get away from me while I was putting the two hose fittings properly back in place and making certain that they were threaded correctly. I don’t have overly large hands, and I don’t know how someone would do this if they did. It took quite a while, but a mis-threading would be a bigger disaster so I just stayed patient. Another reason for care is that the upper hose couldn’t be accessed with a flare nut wrench, I could only get an open end wrench on it and have to flip it with each small turn — I didn’t want to risk rounding it off.

Where I first ran into real trouble was getting the rebuilt rack back in place with the new Prothane rack bushings. Used the included grease on every surface, but they didn’t want to go into place without some serious force. I don’t know if they were made slightly over spec, or I’m just an moron, but it took me forever…

When I replaced the original stock bushings with polyurethane several years ago, I remember it being tight, but I did it lying on my back with a lot less leverage. This was significantly harder with better access and leverage.

After finally getting everything back in and buttoned up, I lowered the car to fill the reservoir and bleed the system. Then came the moment I was ready to slash my wrists, as a massive puddle of ATF started to form under the car.

Back up the lift to find the leak. I think (but don’t know for sure) that it is coming from the pinion tower seal. I’m always careful with hose fittings to tighten, but not to over-torque to avoid permanent damage. Though it’s possible it could be a hose that needs more torque, I think it is less likely given how quickly the fluid was pouring out.

I had gotten so consumed with the work, that I had no idea what time it was, and as I was trying to get a mirror and flashlight in position to determine the precise location of the leak, the shop owner comes by to ask how I’m doing since it’s nearly 7pm and time to close up.

I had blown through all my prepaid hours of lift rental, and had a car leaking 10x of what I had when I went in. Had to leave the car there, and go home and figure out what to do next.

After sleeping on it, I decided to cut my $$ loses. Working with a lift was really great, but time in my own garage is free and more accommodating to my slower work pace. Got the car towed home, and I’ll have to re-attack this lying on my back.

First step will be to lower the rack enough to determine if it needs to be completely R&R’d and shipped back, or see if it’s something I screwed up.

Not looking forward to it... [sigh]

EDIT - Also I'm in the doghouse for how much I spent on "doing it yourself" with the lift rental, yet my wife freaks out whenever I work under the car on jack stands so I'm in one of those great no-win situations that make life so much fun!

 

Pulled the rack down late this afternoon to get a good look at where the leak might originate. It looks like it's coming from the upper hose connection, which I believe is the high pressure side.

I was tempted to apply some torque to see if it would ebb the flow, but it was getting late, and dinner was calling, so I decided to wait and seek some advice from you all.

Should I go ahead and see if tightening will stop the leak, or should I consider backing the fitting out (well both fittings since the lower needs to come out to reach the upper) to inspect for either damage or gunk that might interfere with a successful seal?

It's so hard getting a wrench on it, and I don't want to risk rounding it off applying torque.

 

I would certainly be putting a spanner on it to determine if it is tightened or not at the moment. You may find it is not as tight as it should be.
If it appears to be tight already you can then move to the next option.

 

There is joy in bloodyknuckleville!

I couldn't tighten the fitting any more without risking issues, so I pulled off both fittings and used a mirror to examine what was going on. Even though the rebuilt rack had nice plastic protectors screwed into the two threaded sockets, there was a damaged section of thread near the bottom of the high pressure inlet.

I was able to successfully clean up the thread using a tap and fashioning a small rubber scrap at the base of the socket to catch any metal the tap might shave off.

Rack is now back in place and leak free.

 

Good for you Mac. Real achievement. All part of life's rich tapestry...
Greg